Furbird

I know that a lot of the f-body and Impala SS boys use Dal (can't spell his last name) at Vandeveer Olds (can't remember where), and they also use a guy out of a dealership in Ft. Walton Beach Florida (don't remember the dealer or the guys name). Real effing helpful, I know. But, if you looked on an f-body or Impala SS board, you would find it quickly. Dal picks up the phone everytime I have called him. Dal also takes parts orders over the internet. I'll see if I can find either one of them and let you know.

If you want a legitimate answer as to why I have one, there's two main reasons. #1, I can start my bike on the carport while I'm suiting up, so when I walk outside to get on it, it's up to operating temperature and all the fluids are circulating properly. When I'm out and about, I can remote start it while I put my helmet, jacket, and gloves on, once again, to have a bike at proper operating temps. #2, when I did mine, there was NOBODY who made one for a bike, so I had (and still have) the only remote start motorcycle anywhere near my area. So the cool factor is and has always been very high for having one. Nobody ever asks me why, they just are surprised that I have one, then ask me how much it would cost them to get the same thing. Now, as a side effect of having one, I can also hit the remote starter while the bike is still running, lock the trees, and go drop stuff in the post office lobby, or go get money out of the ATM, or any of the other things that only take a minute or less to do that makes it almost suck to have to turn off and crank back up the bike all the time. I've even filled up with gas with it still running in remote start so I can take the key out and open the gas cap. And don't give me any drama about that, I ride a bike that is a static electricity explosion waiting to happen!

You need to get that changed IMMEDIATELY. If you left your steering head unlocked, anybody could ride off on your bike. On mine, as soon as either brake is hit it shuts off. I'm also planning on adding a tilt switch to shut it off if it comes off the sidestand, which of course could be bypassed by hitting a hidden switch when it's on the centerstand, or just adding a centerstand switch so if it came off the center stand it would shut off. You don't need to leave it like that, somebody could steal that sucker. Besides, I don't know of many remote starts that don't have a timed shutoff. That way you don't accidentally hit the button and it's running all day long. Mine is timed for 12 minutes, but the range on mine is less than 50 feet so the bike can't accidentally start anyway.

I think what he's referring too is where to catch an ignition source for the output side of the alarm so that it starts regardless of the run/off switch's position, like I have mine setup. The only thing that doesn't activate on mine when I remote start it is the fan, and the bike never runs long enough in remote start mode to need it. Mine cranks regardless of the run/off switch, but it will not start in gear because Honda won't let it. It's kinda cool to see mine start with the run switch off, no lights, no nothing, just VROOM!

I'd have to get mine apart to help you out. However, I'm not familiar with that alarm, so the way my Directed alarm is wired and yours may be totally different. Save yourself a lot of heartache and do the 2 second start mode instead of catching a tach wire because the Bird starter automatically disengages the gear once the bike starts so it doesn't grind.

Got mine today too. The wonderful thing about "signature waiver" for a home based business is that you don't have to sign diddley squat to get your NEXT DAY AIR INTERNATIONALS! I can't believe that this guy is springing for next day air like that. He must be making a KILLING even at 185 a set shipped. Perhaps the next board member who goes to Hong Kong could pick up a few (hundred) hid kits and sell them to all of us non-fliers. Maybe pick up a few R34 Nissan Skyline GTR's (hundred or so) and sell them for $60,000 profit like Motorex in California does Oh, BTW, who wants to fly down here and put my bulbs in? I kinda have to have my hands functional for work :shock:

I know there have been a couple of posts on this (ok, 276 to be exact ) but this should answer everybody's questions. This covers just about every bike made. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html I can't attest to the accuracy, but given the other posts on here, I'm sure somebody in the know will chime in if something is wrong.

beondwacko, couldn't we just use a water hose washer or some similar-sized o-ring or washer to do the trick? I'm thinking a water hose washer is about the same size as a spark plug boot.

Umm, Northman, I AM talking from experience, as we just had a ASE certified master technician at our shop run into this same problem. Somebody had crossthreaded the hole long ago (not him), helicoiled it, and the helicoil broke and blew the spark plug out of the top of the engine. So, when we sent the head off to have it looked at, they said they couldn't do anything with it and the head would have to be replaced. And please notice that I said helicoiling a head bolt is a completely different animal from helicoiling a spark plug hole. If you helicoil a head bolt, you still have the weight of the head AND all the other head bolts to distribute the load across. A helicoil spark plug hole has the ENTIRE pressure load of the combustion chamber placed solely on that one helicoil, as there are no other threaded items in the combustion chamber. I'm sorry, but I don't think it's going to last very long. Even if I were to consider helicoiling a spark plug hole, which I wouldn't, there is no way I would drill and tap it with the head on the engine as there is no possible way you are going to get all of those metal shavings out of that cylinder. Now granted, on a high mileage and/or old car, it really doesn't matter, but if you're going to do the job, at least do it right and pull the head. But at that point it would be foolish to not replace the head anyway since you have it off.

The head has to be pulled because the shavings will blow the motor if you don't. And helicoiling a spark plug hole is about stupid to begin with, due to the constant pressure it's under. You're talking about a part that is under direct PSI from the cylinder, and only on one set of threads, unlike head bolts/studs. The head really does need to be replaced, especially since you have to pull it anyway, but the question becomes whether or not you want to go through all that trouble on a car that old. If worse comes to worse, buy a junkyard head or entire motor and take off what you need. BTW, do NOT use JB weld on this. You will never put spark plugs in it again if you do, as the one you put in will be the last one that head ever sees. Until it blows out, probably within the first week, as it is not going to hold that kind of pressure. Not to mention that whole fire thing going on in the motor

I noticed in your sig that you say friends don't let friends buy Hahn turbo kits. I've had a guy here local tell me to not buy a Mr. Turbo kit either, because he had to remanufacture everything but the header and the turbo to get it to fit right on his Busa. If I were in the market to get a turbo, who the heck is left to get one from?

In 4 or so years on here, the most valves I've ever seen out of adjustment was 2, and that was a higher mile motor, and they were barely out. I might worry about it later on, but for now, ain't concerned with it. Maybe when I get up to about 50k and decide to do the turbo, I'll think about it. Just ride the bike.

If you want to stay stock geared, then the Honda ones are a good option. However, you can find aftermarket steel sprockets MUCH cheaper than the dealer. Some say the factory front sprocket is better because of the rubber dampner attached to it, but I didn't really notice that much difference when I changed mine out to a non-dampened sprocket, which was also one tooth smaller. The rear sprocket is available in steel from several manufacturers, no sense in spending double at the dealer when you can get the same thing from somebody else. Regardless of where you get a front sprocket, they are all steel. I have never seen an aluminum front sprocket for an XX. I have a 12 tooth, 15, 16, and 18, and they are all steel. On the rear, I have a 45 steel, and 43, 47, and 49 aluminum. They do make 43, 45, and 46 in steel, but the 46 steel is difficult to find.

1996, OBDII, but it really doesn't matter anymore cause it's missing a couple of items commonly known as a household pet, or in my case, target practice for the .40 and retrieval training for my pitbull

K&N's definitely worked. I had one in my old copcar and it picked up a tenth at the dragstrip just with a filter change. I've had one in my Firebird Formula since I bought it from the previous owner, and have since had to clean it. I bought a paper filter so I could clean the K&N and still drive the car. The one day I had that paper filter in was the only day I had that paper filter in. It makes a big difference on my car, but my car makes 450 HP on the gas so it sucks a LOT of air in. The more HP you have, the more difference it makes in drivability. Can't help you on the gas mileage question. Formulas are not anywhere in the neighborhood of "pocketbook friendly" in the fuel mileage department!

Need to correct the nitrous statement. I run probably the biggest shot on here, and while I haven't sprayed it much, it has held every time that I have. I'm not suggesting it will hold it forever, but it will hold a big shot of gas without slipping. So will Contiforce tires. ...with enough weight on the seat like I provide anyway

I lost it sometime when I change internet providers. Sorry. I've always found on my bike that if you slip the clutch out just before the tree comes down, it kinda "spins up" the clutches and basket and makes them not grab so hard when you come out of the hole. You like "drag" the clutch a little and pull it in real quick a couple of times before you stage. I can slide mine just fine by doing that. The initial clunk scared the shit out of me the first time it happened to, and this redneck idea solved the problem. The clunk happens when you drag the clutch out the first time, then when you launch it doesn't do that.

I should have restated that. I actually had both wheels off to get new tires, and also did the front bearings while I was at it. You only do the ones that make noise. The chances of a catastrophic bearing failure (as in completely breaks and spills it's guts) are extremely remote and you will still be able to control the bike even if it does happen. The wheel cannot fall off due to a bearing failure, and if it locks up, the axle will actually spin inside of the bearing, so you can't lock the front tire either.

Just for the header? Good Lord, they went UP since the last time I called them!

I can't really help you with that one, even with my extensive track passes. I'm still on the stock clutch, and have no reason to change it. Mine even held up under the nitrous, slick, and wheelie bars, so I figure I better leave well enough alone. There's supposed to be a site that tells you how to rearrange the clutches to help with grabbing.

Bearings. You can ride on it for a while, but they'll just get louder and louder. Mine got so bad I could hear them over the D&D, so I figured it might be time to go buy some. I then subsequently sprung my ankle (3rd degree, worst kind) while both wheels were off the bike doing the bearing swap. Yay.

It's probably WAY overtorqued because they tend to overkill these things when they assemble them. I went over my bike right after I got it with a torque wrench and torqued everything correctly. At least, all the stuff I could see without removing the entire engine

I have a D&D full system. Direct bolt-on for me.

I may actually buy this if nobody else is watching it on here. That's a really good price for that pipe, but I have no clue how loud it is. Might as well be the test mule

Jet Hot coats the inside and out of all their stuff. Best coating you can get. I haven't gotten a price from them in a long time but it used to be pretty steep. They also used to charge more for chrome since it has to be removed first. I wouldn't mind finding out how much it costs now just to do a header. You ain't gonna hurt a D&D canister