Furbird

I was originally thinking battery too, but now I'm thinking otherwise. When it died, I got a couple of guys to push me off. I rode back to the trailer (about 20 miles) and by then the battery was charged back up because I kept the RPM's around 5g's the whole way back. I cranked the bike once I got back home (about 2.5 hours later) with no issues. I cranked it last night (it's been sitting since this past Saturday) with no issues. If it was the battery, it wouldn't have started. Also, with a multimeter on the battery, you can see that it is not charging below 4500 at all, as the entire bike is running off of battery power alone. Once you get around 4500 the voltage increases to high 12's, low 13's. Once you drop below 4500, the voltage drops down at a consistent rate, until eventually stuff starts shutting off (headlight, gauges, etc.).

Here's the situation. About 6-8 months ago my rectifier took a dump on a Patriot Guard mission. I got another stock one from Bajjer and put it in and also ordered an R1 rectifier. I figured, the stock one lasted from 2000-2006, this new stock one should last plenty long enough and I can have the R1 one just in case. Well, this past weekend it happened again, but this is a little different. At idle up to about 4500 RPM's, the battery will either not charge or barely charge, the dash lights stay dim, the horn doesn't work (just a little weak beep sound), and anytime the cooling fan comes on the HID starts strobing then shuts off (safety feature built into the HID unit). If you stay above 4500, everything is fine. I've been a lazy butt and never did the harness repair on my bike, so I figured that probably has something to do with it, as I have had an intermittent FI light a few times over the past couple of years. Sure enough, I pulled the bike down tonight, and it was corroded. So I fixed all of that, but I'm still having the same problem. I've checked continuity between all the connectors on the stator at the rectifier and I have continuity (did not check it to ground yet though). The thing is though, if it was the rectifier, shouldn't it just not work at all, not intermittently like it's doing? Does anybody know what the ohm readings are supposed to be between the terminals on the stator so I can make sure that it's correct? Anybody got any other ideas as to what it could be?

If you go Conti, go Contiforce. I've had 2 sets of them, and they are great. I got 10k plus out of one set of them, and just put a new set on about 1k ago.

The HID conversion works wonders, no doubt. That combined with adjusting the headlight up some makes a HUGE difference in cornering light. I would recommend sticking with a halgoen high beam, as the HID's heat time won't help you if you need to use the high beam in a corner. I have a 100 watt high beam (because I rarely use it) and that with the HID in a hard corner rivals sunlight! I also agree with everybody else, stay away from the extra lighting. On a cold morning, or if I haven't started the bird in about a week, the HID will strobe until I bring it up to above 2g's, so that extra power soon dwindles once you start adding stuff on. I already have the running lights bypassed in the mirrors and am going to change to LED's eventually in the taillights and turn signals as well. I just wish somebody could come up with a way to rig some other bikes stator or something to our bikes to increase output.

If the spark plug tube seals come separate I would order those as well. But you will need to get the exhaust gaskets, as those are definitely not reusable. Also need to have coolant and oil on standby along with a new oil filter. Wet/dry shop vac with a small attachment would help too, because no matter what you do, coolant will go everywhere.

Let me know when you want to tackle this and I'll load up the toolboxes and everything I can think of in the trailer and head your way. Make sure it's a weekend that I'm off though, or we'll be stuck to a Sunday thing. I've seen posts of this PAIR valve thing before, but have no idea what or where it is. Bajjer is 97 and I'm 99 and I don't think either one of us have whatever this thing is. Best I can figure out it's an exhaust thing, but neither one of us are 50 state legal. Hell, I'm only 1 state legal!!

There is another option. MAC tools makes a thread chaser device. Let me explain. Basically it's a tap that taps from inside out by using an expanding head. What you do is stick this in the spark plug hole, tighten the head down which expands the end of the tube out making the tap actually tap from inside the motor out. This way it starts in clean threads and works it's way out to the bad ones. I'm pretty sure it also has a magnetic tip to catch any shavings that fall as well, so it should be safe. Of course, if all the threads are gone this won't help much, but if only the outer ones are toast it will solve the problem. It'd be worth a shot doing that before pulling the head off and helicoiling it. I think the tool is around $30 or $40.

Walmart used to sell Rotella T 15w40 synthetic oil by the gallon, and I ran it in my bike with no issues. Walmart no longer sells it though, so I'm back to Mobil 1. Gold cap, red box with white lettering with the weight on it, about $28 and comes in a 5 quart bottle. Supposedly the same as the old red cap that a lot of us used. As always, buy a Purolator PL14610 or PL14612 (depending on your header clearance), WIX, or Mobil 1 filter as these are the best you can buy. Oil and filter just cost me $34 yesterday with tax, and 4 quarts of the gold bottle Honda oil used to cost me more than that.

Change your gearing. You'll probably be making the pass in 4th or 5th, so by dropping 1 or 2 up front and going up 1 or so on the rear (so it's not obvious) will trick the dyno into thinking you're putting down more power. Air your tire up to like 42 psi. Less contact area with the drum is less parasitic loss, and if you do it N/A, you won't have a problem with it spinning the tire. Remove your air filter. You're on a dyno, so it won't have much of a chance of sucking anything in. Not smart if you ride to the event, unless it's short distance. Even then I don't think I'd risk it. But that's free horsepower right there. If you do nitrous, you'll have to do a small bottle under the tank and it will have to be a wet kit since you have a carbed bird. There's no easy way to do it without going direct port, and that's a lot of money just to beat a guy on a dyno. I have a direct port kit, and it's not something you can throw on and hide really easily.

I've never seen pics of an ENTIRELY flat black bird. I know Honda made one that was pretty close to that, but was like silver or something on the bottom with gold wheels. It's funny you mention this because I have a full set of spares in the garage right now that are in primer and soon to be sprayed flat black. Great minds must think alike! The difference is that I will be doing everything in flat black: bottom of the forks, inside section of the brake rotors (like the 97-98 style although my bike is a 99), wheels, swingarm, and maybe even my exhaust. That only leaves the triple trees and pegs not black, and if I ever do those parts they'll probably get powdercoated.

You could do that, but you're talking about using a clip type chain with 2 master links as you'd have to be able to add and remove links as necessary. I thought about doing this myself, but it's just not worth all that work IMO. There are companies that make the extensions, they're just difficult to find. Supposedly, 929RR's share the same swingarm extensions as the XX's but don't quote me on that. If you're having a hard time with wheelies on the launch, try a front strap, leaning father forward, or taking some preload out of the rear shock.

The stock ring lands fail at about 230 hp according to Stotz, who boosted one until it blew to see what it would hold. Forged pistons and the rest stock I think held until around 400 or so. Now that's boost, not nitrous, and boost is gradual, not instant. No way that guy is running 160 shot on a stock motor, I don't care if it's 3 stages. Not happening. That's 320 hp at the crank on the bottle. My nitrous crazy ass wouldn't even ride that bike! Beondwacko and I have been in serious talks about how to mount his bottles, and I did recommend the under the tank thing. I'm even considering moving my 2 pounder under there myself, as I know it will fit. The thing is the refills. I always have mine done with a station, as that freeze the bottle and vaccuum trick works, but is inaccurate and time consuming as you have to heat the bottle back up. I can get mine filled and leave the hot rod shop on the juice. So that means leaving the bike at home, removing the bottle, and taking it up there to be filled. Of course, I have 2 bottles, so I could get away with it, but you have to limit your passes when you do that because you don't want to let the secret out. It's all a trade-off.

You can get a kill switch from a boat supply store. They are cheap, and while aren't all that pretty, they work perfectly, even in wet environments. I've had mine since 01 or 02.

I know that some of you have GPS, and I'm interested in picking your brains. I know absolutely nothing about them, but I want to get one that I can use in the car and on the bike. I'll be using this on my trip to the Dragon next month, but other than that, it will pretty much sit, so I'm not looking to spend a bunch of money. I'm wondering which of the cheapies is the easiest to use. I've got all sorts of cell phone mounts here at the house from my former business, but if one comes with a mount that would be cool to. Just needing some info from guys that have "been there, done that."

As long as it only has two wires coming out of it with no visible boxes on the side of the motor assembly, yes. The problem is that most factory fans cannot have their blades flipped, which would be required because they are set up to only efficiently move air in one direction. Believe me, I've run into this, and it's a chore sometimes to make a fan turn the opposite way from it's design. But it is possible.

I have had a 16 front tooth since initial break-in on my bike, basically. It makes it easier to wheelie, keeps you more in the powerband, but throws the speedometer even farther off (the stock 17/45 is off as it is, 18/45 is actually pretty close to dead on). I wore my 16 out, so now I'm down to a 15, and that puppy will come off as soon as I can get a deal on another 16. 15 is just too small. I also have a 12/49 combo. You don't want to know how far the speedo is off with that setup....

You EFI guys don't let the oil light and the fuel pump shut off first before cranking? Man, you just cut like 200,000 miles off your 2 million mile service interval motor! Seriously, I would not do this personally. When I cut the bike on (even with the remote start), the initial startup sequence gets to go through first before I ever think of hitting the start button (or before the starter is engaged in the case of the remote start). You guys aren't hurting anything by doing it your way, are you?

We all know that it can't be done with a stock XX, or even a "max bolt-on" XX (meaning full system, power commander, your choice of air filter since K&N doesn't make a difference, etc.). I have 18/43's in the garage to attempt this, but did the math, and it can't be done. It would be interesting to try it though. But you have to remember, I have two DISTINCT advantages. A whole lotta NOS and FUR! And we all know that NOS breaks all boundaries, as the Fast and the Furious have PROVEN that you can spray at your max speed even though your engine is about to fall apart and increase your MPH by 30 or 40!! And fur decreases your wind resistance and increases your plastics resistance to crash allowing you to go faster than anybody else on either wheel, fall, and get up with no damage like a Rubbermaid trash can! I got some ocean front property in Arizona if you buy that shit! It just won't happen. Now, whenever Honda comes out with the new XX and I buy it, I will gladly sacrifice the furbike, the 18/43 combo, and the N.O.S. direct port kit with a lot more nitrous than anybody else sprays and attempt it, but we all already know the outcome. I'll get about 190-195 and the motor will let go, probably in a blaze of glory, because you can't spray nitrous on the top end and have anything happen except spectacularly disastrous results. All I ask in return is that somebody donates a perfectly running, complete 99-compatible motor and trans to replace the one I will spread all over God's creation in the attempt to go 200 on a stock motor XX. That'll happen about the same time as I sell that property.......

Been doing a little digging after the "yuasa rep" comment was made further up. Looks like there's a couple of batteries with more CCA's than the YTX12BS that will fit in virtually the same dimensions. I'm going to do some measuring this weekend (hopefully) and see what I can figure out. I'm really hoping the 230 CCA one I found will fit, only difference is heighth. Please, please, please.....

I guess I should have mentioned that the battery is less than a year old. I charged it up last night on the trickle charger and everything worked good. The thing that really scared me is that I do have a HID, and it started flickering, which will kill them in a heartbeat. I couldn't exactly get off, shut off the bike, and unplug it with everything already shutting down, so I flicked on the high beam to shut off the HID. Of course, all that did was kill the HID and the high beam in about 30 seconds, but it saved my HID. I'm seriously thinking about gutting my old jumppack and putting that gel cell battery in front of my ECM and using it for situations like this. When you don't have access to a jumppack, just permanently install the damn thing on the bike!

OK, today I went to a funeral. No biggie, except it was an 80 mile long procession with over 150 bikes going less than 35 MPH in 85 degree weather. In other words, lights on and fan running the whole time. So, when we get to the gravesite, my battery is dead. I mean like makes one rotation of the starter and then NOTHING dead. Here's the weird thing, I pushed it off and started riding back, and weird stuff started happening. First, the headlight started winking like it had a modulator on it, then shut off. Then the tach shut off. The fan shut off for a while, but when the bike got close to the red, it came back on and shut off the speedo. When all was said and done, everything on the bike was shut off except for the fan, including all lights, both main gauges, indicator lamps, THE CLOCK, and the bike was hiccupping. Now the easy answer is that the bike started going into limp mode and shutting down unneccessary stuff to keep the engine running, then started cutting power (hiccupping) to save itself from unneccessary RPM's since the temps were so high. Yeah, keep dreaming. Something is WRONG is what I say. So I get home, put the battery charger on it for a couple of hours, and everything is back to normal. So, here's the questions. Obviously the battery was dead, but why did it start sequentially shutting stuff down? Does anybody make an upgraded battery for our bikes (I currently have a Yuasa)? Does anybody make an upgraded stator/alternator/whatever Honda calls it to up amperage output? Does the R1 rectifier help cure this issue? Bike is a 99 FI, no Power Commander.

Same. But don't buy Fram. Worst oil filter on the market. Find the cheat sheet that tells you what car filters fit your car, and go with a Purolator PurOne (Advanced) or a WIX (O'reillys).

They've got it all down pat as to how I do it too, but I usually use something more like a big flathead screwdriver. It's a PITA to get started, but they will come out. Oh yeah, and don't slip on a plastic bag on your way out of the garage to go get a tool out of your truck and end up screaming like a little bitch on the ground because you COMPLETELY SEPARATED EVERY TENDON IN YOUR ANKLE. That takes "3rd degree" sprain to a whole 'nother level, when it's not just one, but ALL of them. Then your bike sits on jack stands for 4 weeks while your foot reattaches itself.

Wet, NOS, EFI, 1999, can't tell you jet sizes because that would just be wrong! It all depends on fuel pressure, bottle pressure, and how much you want to spray.

I run a direct port kit, hence the reasoning behind such a big shot. Tiny jets are hard to come by, unless you drill your own, and once you start getting really small, you start having issues with the fuel not wanting to consistently flow through such a tiny hole. Just the tiniest bit of trash in the fuel and you could plug a jet. Now granted, you should have a fuel filter on your fuel solenoid to eliminate that (which I do), but even all the filters in the world are gonna let some things pass, and stuff is eventually going to fail. Most engines in a street application can inhale and exhale a bb and not seriously damage anything, so to blow your motor over a piece of something measured in tenths of a millimeter due to a blockage on a tiny fuel jet would just SUCK. Then there's the whole mounting the fuel solenoid closer to the nozzles than the nitrous solenoid and all the other drama that comes about with building a nitrous system that will work consistently with a low failure rate and not damage the motor in the process. I live by the old school rule of nitrous. Take your flywheel HP, divide it in half, and that should be what a properly jetted and properly used nitrous system can spray on your motor and not grenade it. Now there's all kinds of factors that have to be taken into consideration when you use that rule (timing, spark plug gap, compression ratio, fuel octane, etc.) but as a general rule it works almost always across the board. Of course, that only applies to street motors. The car I'm working on now will have an easy 25% more HP than the engine has NA, but it's built for that, so the old school rule doesn't apply. Anyhoo, from what I've read, the first thing to fail in the XX motor is the piston ring lands, and it somewhere in the 250-ish range. I'm getting close to that number, but I'm not there yet, and don't really plan on approaching it without having pistons ready to go in if something does let go. But like I said, I rarely use it at all, and when I do, it is for short bursts, and it is not at the engines peak loads or way up in the RPM range either. Nitrous failures are due to improper tuning, improper usage, and improper safety equipment. If it's jetted right, if you spray within the confines of what it should be used for, and if you have the safety stuff to shut it down if things aren't right, it shouldn't ever let go. It may reduce total engine life, but it should not be a massive explosion that kills the engine instantaneously.