Furbird

It's all on how your engine is set up and how the factory ECU is as well. Factory ECU's are typically set up to kill RPM far before it gets to the actual point of hurting the engine, because DUMBASSES. For instance, a lot of cars are set up to kill fuel at max RPM, although the engine is still making power, so a popular option is to use a programmer to remove that limit (or raise it so high it's at damn near valve floating range) and use an aftermarket ignition to control it by interrupting spark. Much less likely to go kablamalam.

Typically in drag racing, you would have your first limiter for clutch in and the second one for clutch out. It allows you to set a launch limit, say 6k, so as long as the clutch is in, that's what it bounces at, so you can sit at the start line with the throttle pinned and it keeps it there. Then when the clutch releases, you have an upper limit, so you don't over-rev the engine to the point of destruction. With an air controlled clutch and all the other things listed, I'm guessing this is how he had it set up. In car racing, this would take you out of the "footbrake" class, where electronics like that are not allowed. In these parts, you have three brackets for bracket racing, 1, 2, and 3. 3 is a street car that has an ET or speed limit. Also if you win too much in bracket 3 they will force you into bracket 2. 2 is footbrake, which in some areas allows for a transbrake, however is usually just what the name implies, your foot holding the brake down and you launch like that, but no rev limiter at the launch or a crossover box (way too much drama to explain that thing.) 1 is all electronics; transbrake, crossover box, 2-steps, etc. All of the above goes out the window if you're talking about index racing, where the track determines the ET and you have to be within so many hundredths of that number. Those guys use all kinds of cheats to get right on the fringe of being booted to the next class. What he has for sale is child's play in those classes.

Surely you wouldn't scrap all that stuff. Ebay to start. I would buy quite a bit of it but I gave up racing when they gave up on the bike class at my local track. Now I've got too many other things going on to even think about racing even if they did bring back a class for us.

...or plastidip over the black with your choice of color.

Mine has always been a scorcher, especially in traffic. I rode mine to and from work daily, about 30 minutes each way, most of it redlights, and the heat from the engine sucks (plus seeing that gauge always creeping towards red.) You should try drag racing. Everybody would make a pass, head to the pits, and instantly put blowers on the bikes. Of course, when your air temp is 90+ and you were just WOT through a burnout and a pass, I'm surprised it didn't set off thermonuclear warnings at the Pentagon.

How cheap? You remember the one I bought from you that had the body in a separate box? I still have it. I think I'm about 2300 in it.

It's everything AFTER the 7.3 that blows up. And I do mean everything. Even so called bulletproof 6.0's still lift heads. One of my rebuilders buys every single 7.3 Excursion that goes through the auction. He's got them sold before he even finishes them.

caronatruck.com got me my 71 Firebird from California to Mobile, AL for $800. Uship should be even less than that.

Walk in customer with a package that size (jokes shall ensue with that one) are automatically charged ridiculous amounts. Anything over 12X12X12 retail shipping is oversize package and charged insane amounts of money. You can flub the package dimensions on ebay (and risk being back-charged the correct amount) or use a business account where they go by weight only.

Agree with above. Drop ceiling, rolled non-fiberglass.

Nothing says Loctite like cross-thread. RTV and ship it. I would check on other forums that have bikes with this type of setup. Surely this has been run across before and somebody has a fix that probably would rival MacGyver.

Man that's a deal. Too far for me.

Zero, I'm honestly puzzled as to how you had that many issues. How did the CV axle come apart? Why did you have to enlarge holes? These are questions that I would be asking myself if it happened to me, but I can't figure it out armchair quarterbacking on the other end of a computer screen. The only possible way I can think of the axle issue is if you just hung the lower control arm down with no support (please tell me you didn't do that.) I'm not being a dick, I'm just hoping that you take stock of this and figure out what you did wrong so it doesn't happen again.

It depends on the suspension design. Lots of vehicles are set up so the two bolts that attach the strut to the spindle are where you make your camber adjustments. And you would be shocked at how many do not have an eccentric bolt there, so it looks like you just unbolt the old one and bolt in the new one. Then you put it on an alignment machine and see all red everything because camber affects toe. You set caster first, then camber, then toe. But nearly everything built now is greyed out on the caster area (because it's non-adjustable) so everything else is red. Besides, most shops charge less than $100 for a 4 wheel alignment and that's cheap insurance considering the cost of tires.

I understand what you're saying now. It will probably come right off at a shop as a quality impact gun with sufficient air can take off even the most stubborn of bolts. I also hope you realize that an alignment will be necessary as well.

If you're talking about the nuts that hold the strut assembly together, the only way somebody with powerful enough tools will take that loose for you is if the vehicle is on the ground under full load. Otherwise the strut could come apart and, as I said before, potentially kill somebody and/or cause enough damage to total the vehicle. I'm not kidding, if you take it to a mechanic and it has struts, let them do it with one of those wall mounted compressors. It's much safer (but not foolproof) and not worth the risk. I have seen a spring fly across the shop before, you don't want to be anywhere near the path of that thing.

+1 blackhawk's post, otherwise somebody might offer $20 and a swift kick in the nuts.

I'd at least attempt it myself. I literally just did shocks on my neighbors 2004 Sport Trac yesterday, and the youtube video made it seem harder than it actually was. Took maybe 10 minutes (granted I have a two post lift.) He went with OESpectrum, I use Monroe Sensatrac on my stuff. Factory parts will be astronomical, so I would look very hard at aftermarket unless your mom is insistent on factory. Not sure if the Highlander has struts up front or not, but Monroe makes a completely assembled strut that is drop-on. NO WAY I would try doing strut cartridges as those things can kill you upon disassembly. That's most assuredly a "pay somebody else" job.

FTFY. That's Bill Gates money for a windscreen IMO. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-2003-CBR1100XX-MagicalRacing-Carbon-Trim-Screen-yyy/263351216873?hash=item3d50f4aae9:g:eAIAAOSwbkVaFQyJ&vxp=mtr

I'm sure Dave has a Bugatti Veyron in one of his mansions he'll sell you cheap.

Stuck fuel injector? I had one stuck closed, and acted like you are saying (except the running rich part.) If one was stuck open, it would pour fuel that could never possibly fire yet not be enough to hydrolock. Maybe the injector has enough umpf to open but not enough to actually cycle.

I'm guessing you did the ground loom fix (by the battery area) but have you done the power loom fix (under the tank by the fuel line?) You're right to check electrical first, as that list of issues is probably electrical. However, I've had a fuel pump fail, fuel injector fail, and corrosion on the connector at the coil, so don't look past those issues either. I've seen a lot of stuff, as I have my bike I bought new, the dragbike which was a former stunt bike and was left outside, and a builder bike with an unknown history.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Honda-CB-/152736799149?hash=item238fd299ad:g:SUIAAOSw8GtZWX-R&vxp=mtr

If I wasn't such a wimp when it comes to distance riding, that thing would be in my garage.

That title should be branded flood if it was flood. Maybe it was a crash where it ended up in a ditch or a body of water where it sucked in water.