porterb123

Last thing I rode to church was you Yep, but still pick up a dual sport!

Tried to add but did not work..link is below http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...m&album=612 May as well see if anyone here might want my XX. If there is any interest I'll post pics. Some of you already are familiar with my setup, but here's a list of mods and desc. 16300 mls TiForce full exhaust Gilles Vario Bars Delink kit TSR Braided stainless lines all around Custom leather seat Pazzo shorty levers Full Givi color matched luggage Ohlins rear Race Tech front internals with brand new fluid, seals, bushings. 2 up front power outlets, 1 cig type and 1 SAE, both fused Ram Stem stand ball mount Givi shield Throttle Meister New custom made longer throttle cables by Motion Pro New brake pads EBC with a spare set New sprockets and chain DID ZVM2 Pair valve elimination kit Buell lowered driver pegs Tires with less than 700 mls, Conti Force All Balls tapered steering bearings...new Thats all I can think of for now. 5500.00

Make your own with Russell braided line and fittings. I did all of my own after delinking and installing the Gilles VarioBars. Cost me about 150.00 to do 2 fronts/ 1 clutch and 2 rears.

4500.00 delivered to within 100 mls of Houston?!?!

Get it down here to me, with all the farkles for 4500.00 and you got a deal

Wanna swap for a pristine XX and getting to Houston??

As you know if you have this model, power comes in via a standard telephone plug. Took me a while of testing, but basically there are 2 hots and grounds that you pair a hot/ ground- hot ground for a 2 wire hard connection to the battery or switched source...but this is the only wire setup that works

Shit, you've already got them out, go ahead and replace the seals and dust covers. We just did mine, a 2000 model with 16K on the clock, but did all of the bushings and O rings as well. The bushings were not worn but with already being that far into them, for the money it made no sense not to for me

I picked up 2 graduated containers marked in cc's millilitres and ounces from my local motorcycle dealer for a few bucks each for just this purpose.

Yeah as these springs were used alot in europe, the feedback we got from Wilber was to use 2.5 weight, the new springs removed the overly harsh bottoming out that the stock springs had when pulling into a driveway over small lip. They still feely fairly soft so I thought about mixing 2.5 with 5 wt to compromise. I just redid my fork with race tech internals and used their 3.5-5w oil. Might be the ticket for what you want.

That flooring is Brazilian Koa and it will darken to more of a redish color, so will cherry. They are photo sensitive woods.

Just has 1500 sq ft of this installed. Like Charlie was talking about, it's called engineered wood, not laminate, actually the best of both because it can be refinished 2 to 3 times, if it is ever damaged

Yes, that is fixable, but it is seperated, so it looks like you'll have to run a pipe up through the steering head and pull the gap closed, then weld. I'd still check for the the head being tweaked to one side or the other. If you don't want to ship the frame to Handy Stan, straighten it up and have a good local TIG weld it.

It may be the way your decribing it, but the feel should not be mushy. The smaller bore mc will give you more lever travel. The 5/8" bore will have less lever travel but you have to apply more actual pressure to the lever, hence it feels harder. I have the 5/8 bore on mine

I installed a TiForce system and have no interferences with the fairing. Loosen everything up and push it away from the fairing. If it springs back, tighten it up in stages and use a dead blow or other soft object to coax it over till it stays where you want it.

If Carlos's garage is a 2 car setup, there is not much of a way to get around positioning equipment on the walls. My garage is a 2 car of about 22 by 22 ft and had most of the same equipment. I set up all the machines and tables on locking wheels and moved them around as needed. I love good tools!

Go to a locksmith and have a new one cut from the appropriate blank.

Attach with contact cement. Put painters tape on the edges of the veneer and cut with a razor knife through the tape tp prevent splintering. If you are doing a large area and need to position it precisely, you can lay fishing line between the plywood and veneer in close looping rows, position the veneer and pull out the fishing line letting the 2 parts come together. Use a roller to work out air pockets. It is similar to laminate installs. If your veneer will over hang the edges, you can trim it with a router.

I've got concrete inserts in the garage floor with very short carriage heads bolts as covers to keep the dirt out. Great minds think alot....even if you are short as shit

What no dado joints?? Although it does look like you rabet jointed the ends. Are you going to use 1/4" plywood for the back? Looks good so far. Are you going to use solid wood for the face frames/ doors/ glass fronts?

I rode Porter’s bike at the Texxt this year and all I can say is what an amazing difference in ride compared to mine. I would of like to have pushed it in some corners but I wouldn’t of been comfortable do it with someone else’s bike. I will be hitting up Porter for some help when I get some down time and upgrade the whole front end…. Can’t wait. Bring it on hair boy

Sounds like you have it covered. I delinked a few years back and drilled the center bore. All you need after that is a cap head bolt to plug the old banjo inlet. I had to go to a specialty fasterner place. Happy wrenching

Jay, I purchased my bike from Patrick, used to be the owner. It was his bike. I have heard good things about them as well.

After TEXXT and finishing up a home remodel, I'll pull the front and install the tapered bearings, polish forks and rebuild the forks. Thanks for the replies

I have 2 quarts of their expensive oil in 2.5-5 weight. Their site shows the next step up in weight is 10 weight. Thanks for the reply