99Birdman

FWIW, I let mine sit until it completely cools and then some. It has stopped dripping oil completely before I put the plug back --- and it still only takes 4 qts. (not 4.1 or 4.2)

Thanks, guys. I was a little worried I was going to have to pop for a stator and thats not in the budget right now.. I've been going crazy with the bird down for 3 weeks as it is.

My battery went dead a couple of weeks ago and during the diagnostics I determined I was not getting any charge out of the R/R. Battery voltage wouldn't change from bike off to running at 5000 rpm except for the expected drop after starting. Ok, so my R/R failed (determined through the Electrex troubleshooting quide). During the checks, stator output was even on all three phases (50v @ 5000 rpm). The r/r failed the diode check. I ordered a R1 R/R which just arrived yesterday. I hooked up the two red wires into one, same with the green from the old R/R connector and used spade connectors to plug into the R1 Rectifier. Here's my problem. The battery voltage now shows 12.9-13.1 with the bike off. With it running, the voltge goes to 13.9 but no higher. This is within specs according to the manual (battery voltage < charging voltage < 15.5) but I remember it putting out close to 14.5 or more when the old r/r was working. Should I not worry since it passed the checks and the stator output was ok at 50v? Does the charging voltage vary depending on the charged state of the battery (it just came off a battery tender for the new R/R)?

Just a question to those who know this kind of thing but, wouldn't be better to unplug the rectifier in case it has failed in the open state and might fry the stator?

Looks great, Sean. Are you running the amber bulbs in the smoked lens or the chrome bulb?

Warchild had some problems with the wrong part from Electrex http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...opic.php?t=9333 but, their troubleshooting guide http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_f...lt_finding.html that he mentioned might help you determine the actual problem. It is much more detailed than the one in the shop manual and it helped me find a bad rectifier. And, yes, you can do it with any digital multimeter

+1 Great to deal with and they give our forum members a discount.

OK, so my battery (new BTW) goes dead. Following the Electrex diagnostic chart (thanks Warchild) I figure out I have a bad R/R (failed the diode test). I've ordered a new R1 R/R from RonAyers. Since the bike is going to be down for awhile, I figure I can do some other maintenance. I want to go through a warm up to do an oil change, so here's the question: I don't see why it should cause a problem but, can I run the bike with the R/R unplugged with nothing connected to the stator output. This seems safer than running the bike with a bad R/R plugged in, but I don't want to fry the stator. Any input?

I put a bottle in and go for a ride. In about 2 miles, everything is nice and smooth 8) Oops, missed that --- Thanks :oops:

Their site doesn't indicate it can be used as a dynamic balancer. Do you just install the right amount and drive a few miles?

Got it, thanks.

Thanks Ray. I read that thread and PM'ed Helvet about getting a set of the switches. I remeber someone else had installed a set and was wondering what was involved if I did get them (eg; do I have to modify the wiring or did Honda set it up to be universal and just not use it in the US)

I'm looking at going to the Eoropean headlight on/off switches since I upgraded to HID. Does anyone know if the wiring on the US models is already setup to accomodate the on/off switch or will I have to modify the wiring harness?

There's definitely a difference in fins in that your picture shows 3 small fins and mine only has 2. It mounts in the stock location on the left side of the bike and the wires don't appear to have been shortened (factory "shrink wrap"). The connectors appear stock (not spliced, but 2 connectors instead of 1)) but you never know, maybe the previous guy was into doing things right. It would be nice if we had another option for R/R replacement

Was just working on the bike and noticed my R/R is different from any I've seen posted (please correct me if it really is stock for a '99, been known to make stupid mistakes before). It seems much larger since the second hole doesn't come close to lining up. The previous owner made several mods and I keep finding them. The connectors seem to be standard Honda in that they plug straight across. There are 2 connectors, one for the 3 yellow stator wires and another for the rest. Is this from a later year BB or maybe a different Honda model. Anyone recognize? It seems to work fine and the cooling fins are larger than the R1. BTW - the only markings on it ar SH579C-12 if that makes any difference.

It is a rivet type. Better check and make sure he didn't replace it with a clip masterlink. I wouldn't put it past most stealers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SpeedoHeale...570287709QQrdZ1

I found a lot of good suspension info at this site: http://www.activeboard.com/forum.spark?for...bForumID=105421

Not that it will solve the problem but, isn't the idle setting supposed to be 1100 RPM ?

+10 love mine

Aren't all years the same? http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=23369

Ruhi, according to my shop manual, you're right within specs. Battery voltage should be 13.0-13.2 (you're a little low at 12.8 but make sure it's fully charged) with engine off and >battery voltage but <15.5 at 5000 RPM. It does say to measure the charging voltage with the headlight on HI beam, but you seem to be okay. Don't know about the fluctuations, but mine does something similar.

Don't know what you consider cheap, but: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=4561205171

Thanks. What sag do you recommend?

Did a search and understand I want around 30mm rear suspension sag. At what point on the rear suspension to you check sag (shock, axle, etc.)?