Alpha Crow

Yes, I'm back in TX again and to my beloved... the blackbird. Oh yeah, and my wife Going to do the PAIR deletion with the block offs I got from Red J... God knows how long ago. After research on this, I'm confused if I should do the simple deletion or if I should go for the mod version with the hoses to reduce crankcase pressure. I only understand the basics, I'm not a smart cookie like some of you motorcycle homos After reading this post especially: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...=pair&st=20 , I've come to the conclusion that the mod with the tubing will reduce crankcase pressure, which is good (I vaguely understand why on a general principle). But its so minimal of a result that its not really worth doing? What do you guys think? Will this help my engine lifespan over time to mod it? Or is it just for 1 more HP that I really don't need, so just delete the PAIR valve system (mostly for PC3 and upcoming dyno... and just for something to tinker with)

Installing a mototek undertail, I'm at the final stage for wiring, but I'm not sure what to do. Mostly the instructions look like they were written by someone who doesn't speak english (shown below). Basically, I have 2 standard honda connectors, 1 for brake lights, 1 for running tail light. Each has a ground and two others (positive and negative, I assume?). The undertail has 3 LED bars for the rear lights, with 3 sets of wires (ground, running, braking) coming off of them. "CONNECT SIGNAL AND TAIL LIGHT WIRES, WE ONLY USE ONE HONDA CONNECTOR TO CONNECT THE 2 MOTOTECK TAIL LIGHT, TAKE THE ONE THAT HAVE THE BIGGER GREEN WIRE, THE GREEN/GREY WIRE IS YOUR GROUND TO BE CONNECT ON MOTOTECK GROUND, AND CONNECT THE RUNNING AND BRAKE WIRE AFTER." Question is how to I install it? They sent me a bunch of tiny connector ends for the wires. Do I cut the honda connectors off, wire the ground (which one, running or brake connector ground?) to the ground? Then the big question, which wires do I use for the running and braking from the honda connectors? Apparently some wires will not be used, but I can't figure it out. Thanks for any help! Need to get back on the road again before the weather goes bad

You guys are weird...

Full exhausts, not slip-ons? I think it won't work... Basically just need a baffle-less slip-on and K&N map. I think the K&N part is fairly unimportant, from looking at the maps on powercommander.com. They seem to hinge on the exhaust type and have: with stock or after-market air filter in the notes. Would like to get one for now. It's winter, not a lot of riding. Save up for a dyno run, especially with the -1 sprocket that will change the speed to RPM ratio.

Looking for closest for now... basically it's either root canal/crown or PC3 tuning... god damn peanut brittle... some of those pieces are pretty hard. Might have been a bit burnt, though

Trying to find a custom map for my new PC3. Old PC2 ate #%! on me and dyno does not support them anymore. So my old copy of the fixxr map doesn't work with PC3. Anyone have anything, let me know. I really don't wanna drop $175 for a dyno-tune map after dropping $260 for the damn PC3. Thanks

Sorry, I'm an idiot and didn't write that out right (just got off 24 hour shift) Meant, to drill it out to proper size (as specified by tap package), using 90 degree braced drill with the bit it states necessary to tap. For the hand tap, does it grab on it's own or do I have to push hard? Do you advance it slowly and inspect the threads on the way or is it better to crank down on it and go and it will self guide? I know it's a dumb question, details on a easy seeming process, but I'm worried something will go wrong. I already stripped the damn threads as it is Cutting fluid? (reading other websites) Needed or no? Doesn't state anything, just use some light oil or something specific?

Have to tap out a SV650 oil drain plug. 12mm going to a 14mm. Never tapped anything before, though I build furniture and do lots of small repairs to mechanical things. Looks like it doesn't have a lower oil pan, it's just part of the freaking crank case. My plan is to put it on it's side (onto plenty of padding plus it has frame sliders) and use a 90 degree braced electric drill. Now how does this usually work? Does the bit grab the metal and pull itself through or do I need to push hard? Thanks for advice. Hate to ask such nummy questions, but I already messed up the freaking 12mm threads, can't screw up this time.

Brake light works fine and is on original bulb (99 BB) but the tail light itself seems to go out every few months. Fuse is fine and the wires are intact and don't seem loose. Just coincidence or any electrical masters here think there is a problem?

Oh, I can top this. It's an sv650s... it has not oil pan... it's all part of the crankcase. You break this... you bought a crankcase for about $1500. Plus all the work changing it out and break in and problems from that.

After a incredibly frustrating day, the results are in: It's a 14mm hex bolt with a 12mm threads (at 1.25). The next metric size up is 14mm, which is substantially bigger. Looking at standard, there is 1/2 inch. Sounds appealing, though I'm unsure if there is enough left over metal to cut grooves into (I think it's like .87 thicker than 12mm). Give it a try, right? If it doesn't take, I just go to the 14mm anyway. Well, they apparently don't sell a 1/2 @ 20 tap and all oil plug replacements easily found are 1/2 @ 20... all easily found taps are 1/2 @ 13. Sears, autzone, O'Reilly's, etc. Nobody carries a crossover. In the end, I found a piggyback drain plug at 12mm by 1.25 that was oversized. After 2 hard attempts, several visits to stores in search of the 1/2 stuff, I came back and one last attempt before the drilling began, it took. I'm not overly satisfied, it's an ugly fix. Caused shavings that I can only get out by running oil through it (which I did), and I can never take it out (have to use the piggy back bolt to let oil out). On the good side, if it holds, I can't mess up the threads anymore. Need advice from tapping wizards... would a 1/2 work? I'll just find it and keep it on favorites in case the oversize bolt fails and I'll order it and get it going. Or do I just need the 14mm? Also, my friend who builds old hotrods for a living looked at the threads with me after pulling the plug out the first time, you can see it was crossthreaded at one time from the slashes through the threads. I should've looked at it when I changed the oil. I'm about sure the shop did it that we bought it from, the mechanics there are kinda sloppy.

Thanks for the info so far. I've been reading on a kit that will retap it with a slightly larger plug. I felt pretty bad about tearing up someone else's bike (cough, glad it's not mine, cough!), but my g/f mentioned the mechanic that took care of it was a very sloppy guy. Come to think of it, that's the same guy that changed out my chain and didn't adjust the tightness. Says it doesn't matter. Wouldn't suprise me if the threads were damaged already, but just to be sure I'll use the regular 3/8 drive ratchet to feel it myself rather than trust a torque wrench with something so soft. Didn't know they have failures near the bottom end (this one went down to 10, so bottom setting +4 is pretty low). Well, right now just checking for oil leaks while looking at my best and relatively cheap options.

I'm afraid to look, lol. It's staying oil tight so far and I put some clean towels underneath to watch for any drips over the next week. If it stays, I'm going to leave it until the next change. I found the drain plugs for about 13 bucks. I got in there with a non-torque wrench and felt it, it feels like it's very snug, so maybe it's not badly damaged (or so I hope). I don't suppose they purposely make the drain bolts out of softer metal than the block? That would make sense to me.... Seems like making a rifle barrel bore punch out of titanium-steel alloy. Irks the hell out of me... I hate to waste a good oil change to check the bolt, but hate to bite my fingernails for the next 3000 miles to see if I damaged the pan threads. Anyone want in on a class action lawsuit on the torque wrench manufacturer?

Appears I stripped the oil drain bolt on my g/f's SV650. Seems my 18" torque wrench doesn't correctly at the low end of the scale (14 ft/lbs). Didn't even turn it hard, just got it snug and gave it one last half turn to wait for the wrench to click... and the bolt started turning easy. Blows me away how easy it went out. #$(*)@$ thing. Anyway, anybody ever do this? How much do new plugs run? I'm super praying that it didn't damage the threads on the engine block. I didn't turn it THAT hard by a long shot, but... leave it to me. Felt like it would back out a bit, so I'm thinking I can get it out. Advice/comments/flames?

Don't ignore old crow here, my bike the exact same thing. Got progessively worse over time, chugged more at low idle. Started up well when cold when the wax unit would rev high, but once it turned down the idle, it would start running rough. Taking off from stop had slight chugging, which got worse over time to major chugging until I cleared about 4k. Pull the vacuum hoses and look for any liquid. Cracked diaphragm in fuel pressure regulator let fuel into cylinders, made the spark plugs very dirty and wet. I changed mine before I figured it out and it helped, for a while. Then they just got wet/dirty again. Took me forever to find out what it was, someone suggested it and I put it off on the end of the list. Finally checked and sure the freak enough... $50 for new pressure reg. Good luck!