rockmeupto125

You know you don't have to pull the cowl to get to the gauges....

It seems most of the upmarket scan tools have a problem with the later model Fords. The Autoenginuity scanner seems to have the best results with the Super Duty add-on package and do a lot but not all of the sensor testing and bi-directional signaling to check individual components. I've put off that purchase for a while. RiffRaff has it for about $400 shipped.

Cal owns it, I think that in itself is contradictory. I've ridden it as well, and it is the bomb.

Yeah, I like the engine, but it's the sum of its parts. That fuel pump lets go, it cost me more than I have in the truck. It will be instant parts. Hence the 7.3 interest.

Bill, the 6.4 is a whole different ball game. Wild temps in the EGT sensors can cause a "STOP SAFELY NOW" message followed by the engine shutting off. To me, this is a big no-no. Just shutting the engine off for a sensor failure is lawsuit material. Cut the power, dingdingdingflashylights yes, but shutting the engine off is a dick move. 2008 F350 6.4 with DPF delete, EGR delete, and mild tune. Catalyst retained. First time: Start fine, drive a mile and stop, engine shuts off. SSN message, everything seems to work except the starter. Relays click, lights strong, etc. Manage to get snag a ride to work on time, walk back to the truck in the morning, starts like nothing happened. Codes are engine management for regen (defeated but can't stop the occasional message) and P200E, which sets for catalyst temp (EGT2)>830C or post catalyst temp (EGT3)>950C. EGT3 is still stuck in the DPF laying in my driveway, instead there is a resistor wired in line to supposedly make the ECM think the sensor is in place. Second time: Start up, pull around the corner, maybe 15mph, SSN message and engine dies. Fires up after maybe 5 seconds crank, no code, we go on our merry way. Third time: Late for work, get all my shit in the truck, cranks but won't start. SSN message on. I used the truck 7 hours before, maybe it was on when I stopped, I don't know. Lights work, spins over strong, cranked two separate times. Moved all the shit to the XX and went to work. Fourth time: Got home from work 15 hours later, SSN message, P200E, cleared, won't crank. Went to bed, got up 4 hours later, truck fires like nothing happened. Get in in the driveway so I can crawl underneath. Reset all the EGT connectors. Pulled my cheater cable out and tested it, ohms like it's supposed to so put it back in. I hate throwing parts at something, but a new #2 EGT sensor for the cat is cheaper than taking it to the dealer for a scan. But that doesn't explain the no start. Supposedly it resets after an hour and will restart once it has shut down. That actually only happened once. I'm in the process of evaluating my vehicles and trying to do some long term planning. I need vehicles that I can repair with relatively inexpensive and readily available parts, thinking after I retire and can't spend $1500 every time whatever I'm driving belches. That's why the 7.3 caught my eye, and I wondered if they were relatively easy fixers without $40k worth of engine computers. Just mental masterbation while I try to figure out my latest SNAFU.

Around here, rust is a very real issue, so a bed replacement doesn't raise an eyebrow. Three times now the 6.4 has had a no start, twice whileheaded to work. It has a lot of electronic jimcrackery i can't work with because i cant get the software. So I'm not trusting it a lot right now. I was thinking the 7.3 might be a little more use friendly for repairs and maybe just not shut off while I'm driving it. Plus, i want a 4wd.

I'll be talking to this fellow tomorrow. What should I be asking him? Don't know nuthin' 'bout no seven threes...or 2001 Fords. https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/brookfield-2001-f250-diesel/7227008311.html In a short text exchange he claims 18mpg, never had a tuner, does have a leveling kit, and he doesn't know what gears are in it.

Why less faith in the seller? Guy's selling a bike that's not his, doesn't know much about and the owner's not talking. Like you said, probably not a bad bike.

The bike has been down lightly on the left, scratching the stator cover and the side cowl. It has also fallen over on the right, scratching the side cowl, tip of the front fender, and the mirror cover edge. I don't know what a top left fairing is. The upper cowl encompasses both left and right. I noticed the headlight does not fit quite like "OEM perfect." That's not unusual with aftermarket fairings. Hard to tell pain quality from pictures. Bars and bar ends are not stock, and raising the bars causes interference, that's just physics, no "red flag" there. I cannot tell if there are new brake lines or throttle cables. The Cclutch hose looks like it was just released from the frame bolt down for more length. Frame plugs, Laminar Lip screen, otherwise looks stock. Lower fairing mounts may be broken in a tipover, can't tell without a physical examination, and they are not altogether necessary. Price isn't too bad, and the bike doesn't look like it has sustained a lot of hidden abuse. Biggest issue is the title, as Oscar said.

I've never had significant success with a ratchet strap, but I do keep looking for some sort of tubing that the ratchet strap can slide within, because that seems to be the key. Didn't they make thin stem tubes for emergency tubeless tire repair? Or was that just a thing from the 80's?

As mike said, 18 tooth is not stock and will not be a dampened sprocket. Can make more noise. Sprocket and chain that have not run in with each other can be noisy. Chain is 530-110. It's not uncommon to find longer chains (116-120) for less money, just cut it shorter.

Offending connection was where the front subharness connects to the main harness. Tucked in a heavy cover, clipped to front fairing stay at the lower left aspect. I reached it right hand under and up the front cowl and left hand around the lower left side of the gauge cluster with the left dash surround removed. I was able to worry and twist the connector a bit and the continuity on that wire was restored. Cowl has to come of to adequately reach the connector to disconnect and clean, but this got me on the road for now.

Try Vinnie at proline race prep. Tell him you are part of the racerxx group.

I guess my stroke resolved. I sat down to the computer, blew up the wiring diagram, did some more diagnostics, and found the probable offender. 30 minutes to get to the connection and it works. PIA. It will take a while to fix the damage I did taking apart and putting together, though. Good thing I have some spares.

Yeah, i have one. Spent about twenty minutes today looking for it.

Ground is good, ar least from my meter. And that's just sticking the probe on the triple clamp. Ground is shared with the right indicater, so if one is good, the other is good unless the immediate wire is broked.

Tearing my hair out here. Trying to read a wiring diagram and getting older while I'm figuring this out. If anyone has run into a similar problem before, please speak up. I'm trying to get the XX ready for NeXXT. LF turn signal doesn't work. Rear works, flasher clicks like mad, bad bulb, right? Replace bulb, no difference. Check bulbs, they work. Now I invoke the multimeter. Orange/White has steady voltage, and indeed, the running lights do work. L turn signal actuation kills the voltage to O/W and should send voltage to solid Orange. Cant tell because its blinky and my digital multimeter only samples occasionally, reading various voltages from 2.4 to 5.2. It was cheap (free) from HF so doesn't have a max readout, graphing mode or anything that I can really use on an intermittent signal. But just getting some voltage reading gives the impression it should work. Jumpering to a known good bulb in order to bypass potentially damaged wiring yields no light at the bulb. This took part of two days, damaged parts, lost fasteners, looked for tools, cleaned the switch, found and checked two more switches, all with the same results. Right now I'm stuck and need to get to sleep for work. Anyone experience this problem before? Thanks.

Ken lives in North Carolina and works for the Dept of Defense. And Colonel Mustard did it in the kit......aww, never mind.

The tech guy from the tuner company recommended level three as the best for towing AND for mileage. He said the truck would bog on level 1, level two is stock, level three is another 70 hp, four is 100, five is 120. I want it to last, so its stayed where they recomended. Jess runs 55-65 on the two lane roads. Sometimes with traffic its hard to get up to 45 so that it shifts to overdrive. The DPF and EGR cooler are deleted, and of course the regen is defeated while in "maintenance mode" on the tuner. Seems to run pretty strong, not loud, and no smoke. All good. Pulls real fine up to 100mph, which is a good place to let off with an 8000 pound truck.

That's me every day

Stops the centerstand when someone has taken the stock one off. This happens when people put on single exhausts but still want a centerstand.

Sounds like a chain built with much greater technology than current standard, and as such would be expected to be serviceable for a much longer time. Better built, more money, makes sense.

Hell no, you know the area. Just about deer thirty, then through the fog in the morning traveling through the woods, its not a good equation. I would do it, but I can take a bigger bike with more luggage space and a bigger fairing. On a good note, I'm 2 miles from work, so I can take a leasurely 90 second ride to work when necessary and park next to the building with the bike (plus 10 minutes for the 1/4 mile walk, locked doors and decompression chamber). Small plus is that she walks 200 ft from the parking lot through the door and she's at work.

How about an update? It's been a local runner since Racer. Jess gets 19mpg on the 150 mile trip to work and back. I haven't tried with any tuner settings other than "towing mode." Had to have a new rear main seal in it. I can't do that big stuff very well anymore, so that was $1000. They had to order extra parts because of some extra hardware on the 2WD version which makes no sense, but that's the way it is. Then they got the driveshaft in backwards, so it wasn't happy at all going down the road. I took one vehicle to the vet, maybe the others will up their game a little bit now that they see Toby didn't come back.

Well, with a big enough hammer.....