superhawk996

Un tubo que conecta de la tapa de arriba del motor a la caja del filtro de aire. Ese tubo deja salir la presión del motor. Si ese tubo esta bloqueado el motor va a crear presión y esa presión va a tratar de salir por donde pueda. Es posible que la presión esta empujando el aceite por ese alambre. No es un problema común, pero posible. Translation: I just explained the crank breather connection and how if it's blocked it could be forcing crank pressure and oil through that wire.

I meant to mention that, definitely should be checked.

I think I'd have a little more faith is something with a little flex, but if it bonds really well it shouldn't matter.

Take the rubber boot out where it connects at the engine, clean it out really well, and fill it with silicone or other sealant so the oil can't enter the boot.

The review appears to be based on reading what the products are supposed to do, not based on actually using any of them. There was very little information. I read their review on gasket sealers/gasket makers and wasn't too impressed. There was MUCH more information, some of it seeming to be incorrect.

Someone posted a photo of theirs with blue LEDs, looked pretty cool, something to consider. I think the thread was about an LED or HID headlight, but not sure.

It's listed for $600, how could he have an offer for $900 and still have the bike?

I'm glad it's in another country.

Drooling.

There is one not far from here, but I'm pretty sure the only real cure would be a re-core which is probably pretty spendy, but should be less than a whole new one. Stop leak also eliminated the need to remove the rad. If it were physical damage that popped a tube or something like that then it would be cheaply fixable. If it starts having problems I'll look into the cost of a re-core before buying a new one. It's interesting that the three visible leaks it sprung, there may have been others I didn't see, were all in a small area, all on the front row of 3 tubes and all on the very front edge of those tubes. About a 4" circle of leaks on a pretty huge radiator about center line with the fan and towards the cold side of the rad. My guess is that the corrosion or whatever was clogging it up was concentrated in that area for whatever reason and it damaged the tubes. Or whatever the junk was combined with the acid to create something that eats copper. Acids are great, and a mother fucker, the more I learn about them the less I know.

Strange thing about stuff like that, a hollow tube can be more resistant to bending than a solid bar.

The radiator wasn't repaired in a true sense. I put stop leak in and ran it briefly to see if it would work and it did, but I had to drain the system to replace the thermostat and could only capture some of the treated coolant for re-installation. I don't know the system's capacity, but the treatment was probably at the low end of concentration and some of it was lost. Also, the radiator sprung three leaks right after being cleaned out so logic would dictate that there's a few more just waiting to happen so if I'm keeping that radiator I wanna keep the stop leak in it. I'm guessing it has about 1/2 of the recommended amount of Bar's in it now. $700 for what appears to be a direct replacement radiator vs. taking a chance with the $6 bottle of Bar's on an engine that's already a little bit fucked up while having 200 mile RV towing coverage and the farthest planned destination is 160 miles from home....Bar's it is.

I've seen engines damaged by thin/overheated oil. Don't recall seeing a chain damaged before his, but once it starts eating the plastic off the guides it'll happen and thin oil will let that happen. He also had a bearing failure but don't remember if it was combined with the chain or a separate incident. Whether it was all caused by running a light oil I can only speculate. From reading in car forums it appears that everyone who runs track days runs heavier oil than normal street use calls for, or has rebuild stories. From bike forums and people talking about track days I've never seen anyone that runs less than a 10-40 and many run higher. Tomek is the first I've read about using 5-30. Also the first time I've seen a trashed R1 motor, but I don't search track day info and just run across it as part of random looking around. And that's why I asked him about it, I've not searched for the info but was curious since using a lighter than normal oil for track days goes against normal logic. He's bragged not only about being super fast, but having the loudest bike. Combining that with everything else says that he's unlikely to ever give anyone a useful answer, but I wanted to try and more than that I wanted to have a reasonable mechanic/enthusiast conversation in hopes of erasing the past and having a decent future. I've appealed to his superior knowledge/skills/giterdone a few times, but all it does is add more fuel to his "you don't know shit" fire. For a pro team it makes sense to run whatever oil will give them the best performance, even if it's a small edge, they can afford the expensive oil and the frequent teardown inspections/rebuilds. They also have lots of monitoring capabilities and a team of experts analyzing stuff and making changes. Potentially compromising an engine to gain a couple horses for play days on the track doesn't seem worth it to me, but if you really wanna be the fastest I guess you'll do anything. I won't see his posts so my part in the Tomek Show is over, and being on ignore his rantings won't fill my page with crap; win win.

You remember the V-star I had? How bout the DR250? The two or three SV650s? No? How bout the..... I wish I'd kept a list of all mine.

There is one downside to using Bar's. After all the work I went through to get the system clean I won't get to enjoy seeing sparkly clean bright green coolant in the reservoir once it starts mixing with the treated stuff.

Nope. I just had to share the non-blame with you so it wouldn't be all my non-fault that the child had another unexpected and unreasonable hissy fit 🙂

Shhhh, I'm luring him into a blow job.

Actually, I think we were doing fine 'till XXitanium resurrected Tomek's old thread and I asked a question so it's half XX's fault! ...for Tomek not paying attention and blaming me for the resurrection. Anyway, I'll keep him ignored for everyone's well being.

After assembling and before filling I pressure tested it to see if the short run was enough to seal up the radiator and it held. I only got to 7psi, arm got tired trying to inflate the mostly empty system, but it was enough to inspire some confidence. I reinstalled the Bar's treated coolant I was able to capture, topped it off and ran it up to temp, so far so good.

I made the mistake of trying to have a normal conversation with him, my mistake.

No acid needed, just had to feel around and find that under the nut was a bracket, and the stud was actually a bolt/stud. Once removed the housing came off pretty easily, imagine that shit! The thermostat is an impressive all brass marine looking thing, almost hurts to put a normal one in. But a working cheapo beats a broken fancy one.

My only logical guess is that he's stuck on something from the past and assumes that we are, but I really don't have a damn clue what it is. I'm hampered by my inability to think of the irrational reason so guessing will never work. The TJ has a K&N style filter/intake system and it's way quicker than the XJ, must be that intake!

I think the particles get lodged in the leak then harden with heat & air exposure. They warn that if your system is neglected and you have any partial clogs/restrictions you should clean it out first. The guy I talked to has been with them forever, he could probably answer better. It was a decent conversation and hold time was almost nothing, you might enjoy it and will ask stuff I didn't. My main reason for calling was because I was planning to do something odd with the motorhome. I expected to hear "stop being a moron" and instead got "great idea, but you probably don't need as much of our stuff as you're thinking". I asked a few unrelated questions and we had a little bit of general chat about the stuff. I discovered why I couldn't find the powdered version any more, they stopped making it a couple years ago, damn. I was hesitant to suggest it for your Jeep, we had that conversation, but in retrospect there's probably no good reason for that hesitation. The motorhome's overheating under heavy loads was a clogged up radiator. Of the tubes I could see only about 1/3 of them were flowing. Prestone super flush did nothing noticeable. Hydrochloric (diluted Muriatic about 1/3 acid:water) let it flow again. I was standing there thinking why does my butt/back feel hot & wet?....it developed three misters, I guess it was going for the evaporative super cooling. After adding the Bar's, not even a wet spot developed. The not warming up problem is the thermostat, it opens at around 100F, and now that the radiator is flowing it won't get any hotter unless I block the radiator's air flow. The therrmostat housing is stuck hard, today's project, probably another acid attack. It's an aluminum housing and stuck to a steel stud. I need something to eat the corrosion sticking it, options on hand are Oxalic, vinegar, citric, and Muriatic. I might have some others. What would you suggest? I'm not in a rush for it to work, I have other projects I can play with while it eats. My first thought was penetrating oil, but I pried on it pretty damn hard and it didn't budge so I was pretty sure it would become an acid job and didn't want oil in the way.

So now you're butt hurt just because you discovered that I'm not, no surprise. A real man would show which thread he thought Carlos & I got our asses whooped on.

I don't know what people are giving, only what they're asking, so no clue what it's really worth. The only one I saw under $2k wasn't running, runners started at 2500 and went pretty far up from there. On the flip side, having a buyer ready to go instead of dealing with advertising and people is worth a lot, unless she enjoys the often painful process. If I was wanting 2500 for something and had a buyer for 18-1900 I didn't have to fuck around with I'd probably take it unless I knew for sure I'd get 2500 without too much BS. If she's had it advertised and someone didn't pounce fairly quickly it's not being given away, despite it being on the low end of what I saw available. We've seen Birds with asking prices over $5K and know they sell for around $3500 or less in average nice condition, I don't follow the old Ninjas to know what they get. Curious Dave; what takes you from wanting a scooter to this bike and what about it is better for you than a Bird or any other big sports bike?