superhawk996

The intake was still on in the 360 view. My guess is that the insurance company had it removed for inspection, found sand inside, then decided to total it. A complete LS3 looks to run about $7k, I might have to take a little run out to Fontana and check this thing out.

Of course it's a custom build, duh. There is nothing lacking or hacked looking to me.

I gave him a fair amount of shit for killing it, then sold him a motor. It was my friend's son and he decided he no longer wanted anything to do with dad so no clue if it's still running. Looks like dude is probably gonna buy them. I thought he might if he didn't find replacement diaphragms. A few times I considered that I should keep them just in case, but my bike has pretty low miles and they're not climbing much so they *should* be fine for a long time.

The bike had about 60k miles and was running fine 'till he ran it out of oil. The bike had no mods so I assume the carbs have stock jetting. $200 plus shipping, PP friends & family. FYI: if you go 10k miles without bothering to even check the oil even the mighty BlackBird can take a shit.

I can't imagine there being any connection between the O2 sensor and the fuel level. I think the level sensor connector is under the seat near the tank.

Ashley now sees how much she was spending on going out to eat & drink. Not an exact number, but she's seeing her bank account grow instead of hover. She's one of those that would pick up everyone's tabs & shit, it bugged the hell out of me.

Your test was interesting, but mostly useless. While the thin glove would seem more fragile than the instrument cluster, being so thin it is able to dissipate the heat more easily. It's also a different material so not knowing the temperature tolerances of both materials makes the glove a pretty useless test material. If you glove tested the original bulb and the 5w and the 5w did less damage to the glove then it would likely be a solid conclusion that the 5w is safe.

I was wondering about you. The last few days I thought "I'm gonna give that guy a shout as soon as I'm done here", then it would go out of mind. I hope you still have enough $ flow to keep above water.

Instead of "for sale" you shoulda said "wanted".

Not that I recall. Was it inappropriate to use Mfer? If so, sorry.

Not stored away for a big sale, I had plans to do a bafflectomy on them for my '01. Then got my current '97 with Two Bros carbon fiber on it. If the rest of the bike were't farkled up like it is I'd revisit the muffler project but I don't think the stockers would look right.

We don't all have a set laying around, I do, but most don't. There might be someone out there willing to pay 500, but my guess is 250 is around where you'd start getting some action.

Wampum motherfucker!

Beware that if the bung and adapter put the sensor out of the exhaust stream it won't read the same.

You could just break the catalytic converters and dump out the pieces.

Fun bike. I had the early low boost version, then modded it to be a little over the late model's boost.

Google "o2 sensor bung", you'll find plenty of them. Look at where a stock one is mounted and copy that, the location and angle doesn't have to be 100% exact, but it's somewhat important. There's also clamp on o2 bungs to avoid welding, but I don't know if that would work on a Bird's header.

I woulda asked for a second opinion.

I haven't tried a wrap, but Jet Hot coating dropped the header tube temp from about 400F to 300. I didn't experiment enough to know if it would change the engine temp, but it should help some. These do get hot at idle, but won't overheat unless something's wrong. If they did there would have been a big piss up with Honda a long time ago. And humidity makes a person feel hotter but doesn't make an engine hotter so that 95% thing Fur mentioned is irrelevant. Fizzy brought up some things worth checking. Also, the gauge could be lying so checking the engine temp with something else would be a good idea. I use an infrared thermometer and check the thermostat housing to verify temps.

Or slightly less obvious; put gas in the tank?

And, even if everything's connected properly gas will only flow while you're cranking so it'll take a moment to re-fill the carbs, if they sat long enough to dry out.

With a carbed bike there's very little left to feed, taillight and ignition.

A liberal dose of acetone should cure it, whatever the problem was.

I was feeling like this was happening, just based on the couple things I have for sale, but wasn't sure.

Everything is worth what someone's willing to pay, and this is the first in a long time that sold for that much.