superhawk996

Lowering the front or raising the rear will change the rake, but very unlikely to the extent of creating a tank slapper IMO

Hopefully you know that this presents potential problems.

The other one is going to be programmed with a high performance tune for my LT1 powered 928.

Just yesterday Matt's son asked about upgrading his gaming computer. I'll see if he's handy enough to put this to use.

With the right tools and skills anything will fit. Not the answer you're looking for I'm sure, but it's all I got.

When you turn the key on the relay should close and run the pump for about two seconds, then the relay opens and the pump stops. Does your pump run? I don't know what you mean by 'relay kicks in and voltage goes negative', that makes no sense. My only guess is that your meter leads are backwards so it's showing -12v when the relay closes to power the pump?

Pre-bids jumped from $5k to $11k today so my dream of getting it for under 10k is pretty much busted.

With the right tires we should be able to visit Bombay, it's pretty much straight across.

I went to check it out, "due to Covid19 we're not allowing inspections". I asked about body panels or any of the other missing stuff, "they're not in any of the photos so they aren't there". I asked about the intake being there in the 360 photo but missing in the others..."hmmm, strange, I'll ask my manager". That lead to permission for a quick inspection. I found the rear body panels, air filter, and exhaust system laying in the back seat, bonus. The intake was just sitting on the motor and there's dirt in the intake ports. Didn't see the steering wheel anywhere, but maybe it's hiding under the other stuff. I didn't dig all the panels out, but the rear one showed some impact damage. It's listed as "collision damage" but there's little body damage and the dirt in the motor, strange. My only guess is that it took a somewhat minor hit that knocked the air filter ducting off wrecking the motor, but it still doesn't seem like enough to total it. There's a boost/vac. gauge on the dash but it didn't appear to have had turbos or a blower, also odd. If the bidding stays low maybe I'll be able to answer some of those questions once it's home.

Oh, and to the question of $76K new; I don't doubt it. A long travel V-8 rail hits $50k pretty easily, a fancy one with a turbo LS3, which I'm assuming from the exhaust, could easily go $70+. My friend did a long travel V-6 rail and spent around $30-35k despite getting pretty good deals on the frame, engine, and trans. Today those cars that were getting $50k a few years ago are 20ish. My friend's 35k car sold for 12,500 and it took me a while to get that. The side by sides have pretty much killed the sandrail market, now people are building high dollar SXS's instead.

The intake was still on in the 360 view. My guess is that the insurance company had it removed for inspection, found sand inside, then decided to total it. A complete LS3 looks to run about $7k, I might have to take a little run out to Fontana and check this thing out.

Of course it's a custom build, duh. There is nothing lacking or hacked looking to me.

I gave him a fair amount of shit for killing it, then sold him a motor. It was my friend's son and he decided he no longer wanted anything to do with dad so no clue if it's still running. Looks like dude is probably gonna buy them. I thought he might if he didn't find replacement diaphragms. A few times I considered that I should keep them just in case, but my bike has pretty low miles and they're not climbing much so they *should* be fine for a long time.

The bike had about 60k miles and was running fine 'till he ran it out of oil. The bike had no mods so I assume the carbs have stock jetting. $200 plus shipping, PP friends & family. FYI: if you go 10k miles without bothering to even check the oil even the mighty BlackBird can take a shit.

I can't imagine there being any connection between the O2 sensor and the fuel level. I think the level sensor connector is under the seat near the tank.

Ashley now sees how much she was spending on going out to eat & drink. Not an exact number, but she's seeing her bank account grow instead of hover. She's one of those that would pick up everyone's tabs & shit, it bugged the hell out of me.

Your test was interesting, but mostly useless. While the thin glove would seem more fragile than the instrument cluster, being so thin it is able to dissipate the heat more easily. It's also a different material so not knowing the temperature tolerances of both materials makes the glove a pretty useless test material. If you glove tested the original bulb and the 5w and the 5w did less damage to the glove then it would likely be a solid conclusion that the 5w is safe.

I was wondering about you. The last few days I thought "I'm gonna give that guy a shout as soon as I'm done here", then it would go out of mind. I hope you still have enough $ flow to keep above water.

Instead of "for sale" you shoulda said "wanted".

Not that I recall. Was it inappropriate to use Mfer? If so, sorry.

Not stored away for a big sale, I had plans to do a bafflectomy on them for my '01. Then got my current '97 with Two Bros carbon fiber on it. If the rest of the bike were't farkled up like it is I'd revisit the muffler project but I don't think the stockers would look right.

We don't all have a set laying around, I do, but most don't. There might be someone out there willing to pay 500, but my guess is 250 is around where you'd start getting some action.

Wampum motherfucker!

Beware that if the bung and adapter put the sensor out of the exhaust stream it won't read the same.

You could just break the catalytic converters and dump out the pieces.