superhawk996

I dig the clutch window.

I don't entirely understand what you're trying to say/ask. The length of a bolt when using a nut doesn't matter other than being long enough to fully engage the nut. The length of the factory screws going into the wheel are overkill, but I don't know how to calculate a minimum safe length. I also don't see how the length of them would matter for using an adapter like the one you showed.

Is this with the stock valving? And is the oil recommendation based on rider weight or just an across the board recommendation for Birds?

I expected no answer, since there isn't one, but your doubling down on stupidity was pretty creative. 🤣

Classic Tom attack. I stated early on that the effect would be minimal unless the oil level was extremely off. Still waiting for your explanation on how air gets below the oil to get out of the seal.

I'm sure the factory size and style can be bought in stainless, and probably in a few grades of stainless. Maybe not from a bike parts place or by application, but knowing what you need it should be pretty easy to find them made of many different materials. And you can get aftermarket covers with SS screws also, Carlos did.

😆

I hope the factory KTM oil is air resistant otherwise they'll be deflated in no time. Using air pressure might not be ideal, or could be in some conditions.

That's pretty cool, thanks. I might make something like that that hangs over a door so I don't have to commit to drilling holes.

Yea, Carlos and I had a lengthy discussion trying to figure out how air drives itself down through oil to get to the seal while the bike is parked. After agonizingly long seconds of trying and getting nowhere we conceded that The Professional is way smarter than us.

I haven't sold in a while. Are you still selling stuff and able to collect without giving your SS#? I initially heard that it was just for sellers selling over XX amount because they'd be getting a 1099, but don't know.

He bitched about my stubborn stupidity and inability to learn anything, but he won't answer the question so I won't have the opportunity to learn the secrets hidden away in The Professional's mind.

No, not yet at least.

There are different grades of stainless and their corrosion resistance varies, but it seems very odd for them to be totally rusted. I still have the factory steel ones and they're in decent shape. Maybe there is something going on with the fluid attacking them, but I dunno why it would. If corrosion were happening I'd expect the stainless to be fine and the aluminum to go to shit. Is other stuff on your bike rusting like the screws are?

I think they've been forced to give the feds people's income info.

After fees I'm guessing he'll be lucky if he broke even.

Tripled down. Talk shit, cast insults....typical Tomek.

Yes to all your questions. So, how does the air above the oil get out through the seal?

Just a simple question since you said air will escape through the seal. So how does it?

How does the air travel down through the oil then separate from the oil to get out through the seal?

Not stiction, the air pressure that you said would be the same as atmospheric after it 'settled'.

When doing the initial set-up it won't have 'settled'.

The Tesla has almost the best sound of any vehicle, nearly none. Even if it wasn't ludicrously quick and comfortable the near silence makes it a winner. It's possible that I'd get bored of it, but probably not.

Think of it in extremes. If it's full to the top the fork won't compress at all, if it's an inch down it'll compress a little bit. If it's empty it'll compress a lot more than normal.

In case you don't know, fork oil labels don't always show the true viscosity. Way back I found a chart that showed different brands and labelled weights and what the actual viscosities were. Some were dead on, some were way the fuck off. Like 7.5 from brand XX was thicker than the 10 from brand Y.