superhawk996

Now I went ahead and watched it. Good info and well made as usual, and good to know that the starter by-pass will work and let you get back on the road.

I didn't watch it so I can't specifically comment, but this guy knows Fords so it might help.

Any particular reason for wanting super low miles?

Now that it's greaseable the hole doesn't matter, it's only a big deal for sealed joints. Greasable joints are never sealed, they just have a 'dust boot' which is likely to be less protective than a sealed boot with a hole. As for the EGT, just because you only saw the reading change when going over bumps doesn't mean that it's not the cause of the shut-downs at idle. If you can catch a shut down while looking at the numbers then you could probably determine if it is or isn't the cause. This is why I suggested doing a wiggle test early on, it should let you find the source of the problem.

On my 7.3 IDI van I used a towel, much more convenient than a piece of cardboard. With the engine running the fan will suck the towel onto the grill, then find a crack along the top somewhere to tuck it into so it stays when you shut the engine off. I assumed it was a problem with my thermostat not closing, but maybe not. Getting to it was a bitch so I put one in the hose right at the top of the thermostat housing as a test, nothing changed. While it seems retarded that there's enough bypass flow to keep the engine from warming up in So. Cal. cold, that seems to be what was happening. The ambulance, same engine but 3 years newer, also takes forever, maybe a little less. Not sure if the system changed or I'm just imagining that it's a little better.

Nice to know! The first two reviews are from people using it for motorcycle carb parts, then another a few down from that. Along with a warning to not let them soak too long as they'll swell up.

Exactly what I was thinking. Also make sure you've loosened the clamps enough. Not just released tension, they need to be able to let the boots expand to get over the ridge they're sitting in. If the bike will still start you could run the engine for a while to get some heat in the boots.

If it gets there 😇

I knew the SV was a ramp, and that would be a bitch to unload without the proper tools, that's why I felt the need to speak of the adjuster on the BB shock. I don't know if the BB adjuster will unload the spring, but it's safe to try. If you get to the end of the threads and it's still tight, stop and hand it off to a shop. Or aim it at someone you don't like as you turn the adjuster off the last thread. 😆

I don't remember if I've done it on the stock shock, I did on my Penske BB shock. If spinning the preload adjuster out will take the pressure off the spring, which I think it will, it's totally safe.

With forscan running to see live data wiggle the wires and sensors looking for a change. Go through as much as you can from sensor to computer. Wiggle/tap on the sensors too. If they ground through the pipe I'd start by wiggling the pipe since that would make all of their signals go nutty which could explain not getting a specific sensor code. I assume the only ground point is the flange at the turbo so if it's loose or cracked maybe that's it. If nothing pans out from the wiggle test you might just have to keep the computer in the truck full time 'till it shits and hope to see which one is showing a bad temp. I think an out of range signal should only de-rate the motor, possibly by shutting off some cylinders, and not kill it while driving. I could see a cylinder cut killing it at idle but maybe it wouldn't leave you fucked on the highway as you fear; has it ever shut off while driving or only at idle? When it dies does it let you re-start right away or do you have to let it cool?

And; what brand/model exhaust system?

From the little I know: P0200 is an injector circuit code. EGT codes would be P20xx, last two digits indicating which sensor and the specific problem it's having. I'm guessing problem in FICM, bad connection, chafed wire, injector starting to go. Did you typo on the code, mistake your injector code as being an EGT code, or I don't know WTF I'm talking about?

Put it in that piss poor excuse for a trunk Honda installed on the caruck and send them this way before they both succumb to your abusive storage practices.

Is forscan kinda like using TorquePro? I've read of forscan, but haven't used it.

I prefer using grease. They slide right on, they're easy to position just right, and easy to remove. Also cuts down on wheelie tickets.

The guns are listed for bidding but not the ammo or primers, seems kinda odd.

Got the last of needed parts ordered today.

It appears to have a potentiometer on it, I assume to adjust it, so you'll want access to that at least long enough to figure out where to set it. After that you can tuck it away. Guessing it's not waterproof so somewhere it won't get wet, or cover it up.

It would probably be easier to swap in a XX motor and harness than to convert the current motor. It would totally change the look of the bike which would be a plus or minus depending on your desires. Guessing most people that are slightly in the know would think it's one of the modern retro bikes. It would be a better vehicle, but loose it's soul.

Not looking for super fancy, just finishing a couple toys and figured I'd check here in case someone has leftovers from upgrades or whatever. A mil-spec carbine buffer tube, buffer, and spring for an adjustable stock I already have. A stock, buffer, tube, and spring. Carbine or rifle, adjustable or A1/A2 style; don't really care as long as it's a matching set. I'll also take whatever individual parts you might have from the above list. Possibly a mag catch and bolt catch. I might have a local buddy with them, I'll know tomorrow. Grip. Muzzle devices: Muzzle brakes. Blast deflector/shield/diverters, they have so many names. Red dot. I haven't decided whether to go cheap or good, might try both. Let me know what you have and price. Shipping will be to 91745.

The throttle body spacing is likely different as well as diameter so you'd probably have to go full custom. You might be able to use the carb set as throttle bodies, then add the TPS to it. The points system would have to be replaced with a CPS and trigger. Add a high pressure fuel pump somewhere. Rig an injector rail and FPR and find a way to mount the injectors. Add the wiring and ECU. Probably a higher output charging system. Probably a few more bits not coming to mind. Then a custom tune. Maybe it's easier than I'm thinking it'll be, but I think it'll be quite the project.

If you like the handling with the spacer but want it lower; lower the front, then you can eliminate or reduce the lift in the rear.

First registered on 9/11, purchased on April fool's day...hmmm To get the inspection do they give you a temporary permit to ride it to the inspection or do you have to transport it?

Maybe when they were adjusting for the dented tank and missing fairing screw they hit + instead of -. The undertail treatment looks pretty clean. I'm tossed on the taillight, but it's unique.