superhawk996

A second fan would have eaten the battery even faster, something to consider.

Thanks, that makes more sense.

The stator doesn't seem to be a problem with these, but the rotor goes out around 50k miles, this bike has 55k and a dead rotor. I found a new OEM on ebay and it's on it's way.

I'll describe how each fits me so you can get an idea. I'm almost 6' with a 33-34" waist. I have no idea how to price this stuff, let me know what's reasonable. Two piece suit, zips together. I bought it at a yard sale way back, guessing mid '90s, and later had a leather guy recondition it. Fits me pretty well, maybe a little short, but it works. I assume it's women's, the zipper is on the wrong side. Thunderwear brand, marked size 54, fits about like a 42 men's. Been sitting unused in the closet around 10 years, probably more. There's just a little extra room in the waist, fairly roomy in the hips/ass for bending over. Pants only, pretty old. I got them used many years ago. They're quite snug in the waist and pretty short for my legs. No tag I can find. Marked size 42. No brand label, marked "sample" on the inside. Got it from a friend many years ago. Fits me well. It has both halves of a zipper around the bottom to attach to pants if desired. Zipper pull tabs are missing on the main zipper, front vents, and one sleeve. Road rash in close up photo. Fits me well. The leather is stiffer than all the others. I don't know if it just needs conditioning or it was an up tight cow. Removable Thinsulate liner. Size 42 long. Fits me well, feels like an old friend...I got it new, guessing early 80's. I'm tempted to keep it, not totally sure.

Fuses can develop a hairline crack that's hard to see, test it with a meter to be sure.

Description: This listing is over 60 days old. I assume it's sold.

The loom might have a problem, or many other possibilities from as simple as the handlebar kill switch being off to .... ? I think I'd start with checking the fuel pump fuse and relay, after checking that the kill switch is on. Actually, I'd flip the switch on-off a few times with the key on just in case the contacts are just a bit shitty.

One of the issues the Convert has is a dead alternator rotor, open circuit in the winding. When I looked around previously they were a few hundred bucks so I didn't do it. Found a used one on ebay yesterday for $55, ordered. Hopefully it's the only problem with the charging system, guess I'll find out. The Guzzi uses a very car-like alternator, but driven straight off the front of the crank instead of a pulley. From what I could find the rotor isn't an off the shelf part adapted to the bike, it's Guzzi specific.

Even without enough juice to crank, I think it'll probably work in conjunction with holding the start button/switch since that energizes the other generator circuits (and probably the bucket controls) just as if it were running.

Thanks. It's funny, and not too surprising, to see this bike lumped together with "this old tractor". Just yesterday I was looking at the massive starter and thinking, damn, it's like a tractor manufacturer made a motorcycle engine.

I haven't a clue and plan to research their value. Do know that if you got it right now there'd be a fair bit of tinkering to do, other than cosmetics. I bought it unseen, not quite as described, I might have overpaid. At the time, and going off the description, my research said it was a pretty decent deal. But it's been a few years and things have changed. Honestly, I couldn't say if it's worth $1k or $10k, but guessing much much closer to 1.

They are super goofy, absolutely retarded, and for some reason they don't bother me as much as they should.

I hope I didn't steal your Guzzi thread with my project. Motivator; mine's running so get off your ass! 🙂

That makes sense, I wondered why it wouldn't have the jumper control. The emergency down might work if you hit the jumper, or some other momentary switch. Some 'emergency' controls are wired so that you have to hit two things, I guess it's a safety against accidentally actuating the 'emergency' circuit. But if all's working well you *shouldn't* ever need the emergency down. At least some stuff is looking better than it seemed. Having two pairs that give AC power makes me think the mystery is solved, but it's odd to me that one pair has continuity to ground and the other doesn't, that's why I was hesitant to say much about that part. It seems to me that if an AC hot wire has continuity to ground it would energize the chassis when the generator's running. Or, maybe it's a feedback through the brushes and if the engine were rotated a bit the other pair may have done the same...something to test on your next probing adventure perhaps. Luckily you have the pulley that'll hopefully let you roll the engine by hand. I think most meters have some kind of indicator to let you know the voltage is out of range so it'll spur you into changing the range, sometimes it's not obvious.

In playing with the throttle on generators I've seen 40 to well over 150v. Governors aren't perfect, but you can usually dial them in to keep within a good voltage range. The one on my Onan was a little off so I tweaked it. From memory there were 3 different things to adjust to get the voltage right at low, medium, and high load. The governor relies on a bunch of stuff, but in my mind the spring is what makes it less than perfect, there's just no way to not have some amount of rising resistance as the spring is stretched. I think I got mine down to around 4-5v. of variation, more than good enough.

Modern fancy generators might not use the old school mechanical governor. If they use electronicals to see the voltage and regulate the RPM based on voltage instead of actual RPM then I guess it could be called a regulator.

The RPM governor could be referred to as a voltage regulator in some units, but I think that would be completely wrong.

Pretty sure there's no regulator, the voltage is RPM dependent. 240 would come from using the two 120 hots....or cranking the RPM up to 3600 😵

As for which wire is which, it doesn't make sense to me so I won't speculate. The 145v instead of 120 is probably just because the RPM is too high.

Very odd since the engine is making no electricity for the vehicle/boom to use. Does the battery jumper switch have to be on for the engine to run? If so, did you try the emergency bypass with that switch on? If the panel is truly only operational with the engine running that means it's sharing power with the generator stuff, like the fuel pump & ignition, which seems totally wrong. Or maybe that switch isn't activating the emergency bypass solenoid and instead is activating the normal down solenoid which might require hydraulic pressure. Either way, it would be easy to swap the panel feed from the generator controlled circuit to a battery line so that the emergency down will work with a dead engine.

It was in the corner of the yard blocked in by the Excursion, which was slightly disassembled for repairs, so I hadn't built up the motivation to drag it out. Today I dropped the Ex off at the Ford dealer so a real mechanic could fix it for me, luckily I got the only female technician there so it should get done right. Just a module I replaced that had to be programmed with the right data for the vehicle. I put a battery and gas in it, made a couple tweaks, then took it for a couple laps up & down the driveway. I don't know if I want to fix it to a good riding condition or just a selling condition, but it's an interesting ride for sure. I'm leaning towards at least transferring and registering it so I can ride it, it'll cost a few bucks, but it'll also make it easier to sell so it kinda makes sense. To be truly road worthy it needs a fair bit of stuff, and some more stuff if I want to make it 'bulletproof' for longevity, but other than needing a headlight it's drivable enough that I should be able to figure out if I want to keep it.

The 2 door does have the 4.0, being a '97 I'm pretty sure it's an H.O. It's a base model 2WD so minimal weight. It is pretty damn quick.

I have a lot of guesses, but since the readings don't make sense to me and I'm not very knowledgeable with AC, and I'm too far to realistically inherit the machine after you get fried, I won't bother throwing out potentially deadly/wrong info. My suggestion, if nobody comes along with an answer, is to actually label them A,B,C,D. Probe every possible combination of them and post the readings. Do the same with probing each wire against the generator chassis and van chassis.

The same guy also has a '97 2 door 2WD XJ that he originally bought to do a 4.7 stroker build with, but then life changed so it's also for sale. He's that rare guy that'll pay more for a 2WD because he doesn't want that shit so he thinks they're worth more. And he might be right, four dudes on the planet will pay more for 2WD, the rest of the population will skip past his ad. The XJ is being stored at another buddy's house and he told me that he was pretty sure $1500 would get it so I considered buying it and doing a build, but the owner wants more so I let it go. The owner doesn't need the money, neither vehicle is in his way, guessing they'll both sit for a while with nothing happening.

It's a friend's, he's had it a very long time, guessing around 20 years. I don't have a price from him. He knows they're rare and somewhat sought after so it won't be a give-away, but if someone here's interested I might be able to get a decent price. 143k miles, 5 speed, 4.0L., 2wd. I did some street and highway driving, no issues other than the gas gauge being dead, probably the sender, maybe just a loose or broken wire, haven't checked. The engine is oily all over, but no drips on the ground here so far. The harmonic balancer was coming apart, I just replaced it.