superhawk996

I'll take the clutch cover.

I have an old Ryobi 48v lead acid mower and it's ok as long as the grass isn't too long or dense. I have the Kobalt 80v blower and trimmer and considered the mower, but $400 for the bare tool and it doesn't even have self propulsion; nope. The trimmer and blower are both impressive, especially the blower. It beats the previous Troy Bilt corded blower that I thought was pretty bad ass.

I think it would work OK with a simple tie rod connecting the two together. It would have excessive caster, but not a huge deal. It would be like steering a motorcycle with a fixed side car.

There isn’t really a better or worse, it’s what the vehicle needs. Typically you want toe in. I’ve heard that some front wheel drive vehicles have close to zero or maybe a bit of toe out. I assume it’s because they plan on the power pulling the wheels forward and toeing in slightly.

It's called Ackerman, and can be one of the toughest things to get right. Even many production vehicles don't get it right, I mostly notice it with trucks/vans. That would only be one of the challenges of getting two bikes working as a car, and one of the least likely to try to kill you if you get it wrong.

Yup, if they're installed correctly. I've used dozens (maybe hundreds) of them with no issues, and have had to fix some installed by others that were causing issues. In most cases there's a cable to the starter and another that feeds everything else. Even tho the replacement terminal clamps them both together there's no guarantee that one of them isn't making a shitty connection.

Whada you know shit talker, u proly ain ever even seen a dragstrip.

He's able to post them because he doesn't use any reliable sources for his research.

LIAR! It'll hold the door even with a cracked screen. The watch was tempting me, but it would look like a grandfather clock on my girly wrist.

On the upside, you can make big power with a VW motor and they're light.

It mostly looks pretty cool, but the nose looks like something that was created in a high school metal shop and just thrown on. That said, if it was offered to me for $2750 it would be hard to say no.

Oops.

And just like that, someone come along comes the easy fix. Jon, let me know when to expect it.

They don't. Unless you're an environmentalist. Copper is more conductive, but lead provides more contact area. Each has its ups and downs comparatively, but both will work fine if they're in good condition. I've replaced many OEM copper terminals with lead and have never had a problem. I've also replaced a few with cheap steel terminals, which is probably the worst option, and never had a problem. If you clamp a battery tester to anything but lead you're more likely to get a falsely low reading.

SOLD! Whenever I get tired of having them. I keep tossing around the idea of selling the bike, but it would be hard to replace it if I wanted to.

They can be, there's a lot of adjustability. I have them set higher than stock, maybe VFR height. Adjustments: up/down, forward/backward, as well as rotation; (bar ends up/down and in/out. Both the pegs and bars are very nice....and they charge accordingly. I got them second hand, I think retail was around $1k for both sets. I think they're no longer available so my used ones should be worth double!

How fast is it? I don't know, but it's got 2 Birdpower so it should be XXXXtra fast.

You've clearly not thought this through man. Lets stick to year long threads about how to move a bike that lands right back where he started from....before he got rid of his trailer because a trailer is a shitty solution, to then buy another trailer. Now imagine that thread coupled with the emotions and challenges that a woman will bring 🤯

I always understood that a quad is any 4 motor flier and that drone is only correct for one that's autonomous, regardless the number of motors.

Your MacBook is cupped.

They're also Gilles, gold anodized just like the peg mounts.

I had typed out a whole detailed reply much earlier and don't know what happened to it, I don't have the energy to re-do the long version. I think it's better than stock, but I'd have to compare it again to give good feedback. The Gilles Tooling peg/shifter is definitely an improvement over stock, as is the brake lever. They have a ton of adjustability, and most important--they're sexy. It seems that adding pivots and shit instead of the simple lever straight on the shift shaft would be worse, but it's a huge improvement. The Motul 300V oil finished making shifting spectacular. It's painfully spendy, but the change in shift feel will keep me buying it, fuckin amazing. It's almost like the shit knows when you want to shift and it helps make it happen.

I suspected they might be short. That combined with my assumption of less power than a 'normal' washer would make it suck for some things.

Flow and pressure numbers can be bullshitted, and can be altered using different spray tips. If the numbers are close, and haven't been verified by a third party test, I'd just call the two machines equal. I've learned that the adjustable pattern wands kill power compared to fixed orifice tips, huge difference. Same machine at approximately the same fan angle, I'm guessing the adjustable was about half as effective. My biggest annoyance with pressure washers is the long handle when I want to get into tight areas. After buying the stuff below I've never again used the 'normal' set-up. One thing to note; most (all?) electrics use a different size fitting than gas so you might need an adapter. IIRC the kit is "gas washer" size. No idea what the battery units use, guessing some proprietary shit. The only downsides to the multi piece wand is that the fittings are a bit wobbly and there's more chances of leaks. If using an angled end, especially with a long set of tubes, the side push is very strong so you have to be ready for it. The cheapo tips don't have as good of a pattern as higher dollar ones, but they're ok and they both use the same connection end so the cheapos can be replaced with good ones. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083116BHP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811JT4WW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FZ8J1CC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The cable goes to the cover about where the hydraulic line would. It's visible from this angle if you zoom in. I was living in a black and white world at the time. This is the actuator inside the cover that the cable pulls on. It has twist grooves between the rotating center and outer part, kinda like barrel rifling. As the cable pulls the lever rotating the center part, the 'rifling' forces it to travel in/out. Behind the bolt is a locknut, this lets you adjust it. There's a bit of a balancing act between adjusting the cable and the bolt. I don't know if I did it the 'right' way because I don't even know who made the thing, but it works well.