superhawk996

The hangars get different paint, possibly powder coat. And it's likely that they're made of better metal which would also help them as the paint fails.

Unless you noted where the idle screw was before messing with it you'll have to get it running and warmed up to reset it. Ideally with a tach, but you might get it close enough by ear. The manual should show the cold start procedure. Typically it would be- full choke to start, drop to half choke to warm up, choke off when warmed. Only starting with no choke tells me something is very wrong with it, or you're using the choke backwards and actually full choking it when you think it's fully off. Most modern carbed bikes have a very lean idle mixture for emissions. The idle air/fuel mixture screw is probably covered so you can't mess with it, another emissions thing. It 'shouldn't' need adjusting, but it might benefit from a small tweak, especially if you're at low altitude where it would run the leanest.

Yea, I was thinking about it from my angle of having to do it on the ground and without the conveniences of being in a shop, one hour is a more reasonable guess than two. If hardware had to be cut/broken off that would add time. I didn't see any new hardware in your photos, but not all were shown.

Guessing it was under 2 hours working on it, lunch, then 3 hours of calling his friends to place bets on whether the customer would buy the 5 hour story.

A dab of .030 wire from the MP200 will secure it good & proper like 🙂 The high temp loctite should do the trick.

Some because they're torque to yield and some because they come with a special sealant on them. I reused some that had the sealant, I just put a dab of Right Stuff on them.

Reusing u-bolts is like choosing a motor oil, there's 1000 opinions. Cut vs. rolled threads is supposedly a factor, as well as how much they're torqued and what material they're made of. If the threads show no deformation at all past where the nut was, they should be fine. If they've deformed, and it doesn't have to be super obvious, they're weaker and they might show a 'fake' torque reading as they're tightened. They're the only thing keeping the axle on the truck, no biggie. I can't imagine that getting stock replacements is difficult, whether OEM or aftermarket. And ask the shop doing the work, some will refuse to reuse. I have reused them many times without an issue, but I shy away from giving it an automatic blessing. I ran into several "one time use" bolts on my Porsche when I was reassembling it, and they're much more expensive than hardware store bolts. I was leaning toward calling bullshit 'till I measured them and found that they had indeed stretched. But Porsche does a lot of things that other manufacturers don't, like not stepping up to a larger bolt when a smaller one can do the job as long as everything's perfect. People doing stuff wrong is probably what lead them to stop using aluminum lug nuts and ball joints.

Welcome to every American car/truck from the 80's and 90's, and even some into the 00's. BTW, 13/16 is usually interchangeable with 21mm.

Same here. Some day I might replace the belt, but that old one slapping around and shaking the fuck out of the machine keeps things exciting.

So Mike; did the new springs cure the sag?

Just far enough.

😂

Yup, it was a full auto BP revolver and I bought a pallet of pre-loaded high capacity magazine cylinders for it loaded up with magnum black powder.

I find that it's ok as a cleaner, adequate if you're doing it regularly, but not as good as dedicated cleaners/solvent. It does seem to help prevent fouling from sticking. I've been on the fence with the longevity of the lube, but my guns get about as many miles as my bikes so I don't have a strong opinion. It definitely wins on 'fixing' problems. I've seen a few guns that were troublesome at the range, people tried lubing without success. I hit them with one shot and they started running again. There was one gun that it only slightly helped, but it was later found to have been assembled wrong; details unknown. It's also good for BP guns. I previously used the old school olive oil approach which does work well, but the OS is much easier and seems to help with cleanup after shooting. BP revolvers start getting gummed up around and in the cylinder pin locking them up. An occasional squirt of OS keeps them running all day.

Most truckers and service places way over lube 5th wheel plates. No matter how much is applied, once the trailer slides on there's only so much left in place. I was taught by a lease/rental company that actually studied all the service aspects of trucks; clean, fill the grooves, and apply a bit at the leading edge to be spread across by the trailer. Our tractors were always fairly clean around the plate, the ones in the 'normal' side of the shop that serviced customer trucks had tons of grease all around. Conversely, their u-joints and other stuff suffered from under-greasing. We had our own crew and did everything possible to keep normal shops from doing work on our trucks because we wanted them to last.

Hornady One Shot gun lube helps triggers and buffers, but for triggers I find that moly paste does more, probably very similar to the spray Krypt posted. I've used the spray also, but it's been a long time.

Carlos is a big proponent of ball lube, I generally run them dry. The only one I've lubed was my big boat, with almost a ton on the ball I found that it worked the nut loose pretty quickly. I probably used moly paste, it's my go-to for high pressure applications and it takes very little so it's not messy.

And heeeere we go.

Tomek says it's fucked so now we can comfortably say that it's good for at least 3X of the measly ton that you plan to pull.

It doesn't need to be thick, it's premium chinesium! I looked at the same one a few months back and it looked plenty adequate, I was only planning to tow about 1700lbs., but would have trusted it with more.

Time to put that welder to use. I looked at it a while back, it's pretty decent. I know there was an issue about them not being able to find it when you called, if your closest store doesn't have them they can check others for you.

Easy solution, load all the weight at the back of the trailer. The rear will lower, the front will rise. With enough weight the Tesla will have a proper hot-rod stance.

Nothing, I use them that way with most of my vehicles. His issue is getting one with enough rise. Carlos, a solution might be to get a ball with a long shank and spacer it. I've got a lot of balls (for towing) so I haven't shopped in a long time, but I've bought some that had really long shanks and I've used them for adjusting height.

The Tesla hitch is pretty damn low so I'm not surprised that it needs a lot of rise for a normal height trailer. My Jeep needed about a 17" drop for my Talon trailer so I built it. Figures that we would be the rare ones needing odd-ball hitch mounts.

What's the bike and what brand seals are you using? I've had some old rusty tubes that didn't leak and perfect modern ones that did (fuckin Ducati). I've also had some leak after sitting a long time and then stop when being ridden regularly. One of my Ducs started leaking again within a few hundred miles of cleaning them, but it had been many months. Re-cleaning cured it. Annoying, but way less work than replacing seals over and over. According to the Duc forum the solution was aftermarket seals or regularly clean the factory ones.