superhawk996

Likely lean, maybe sync issue. And possible leak as Hank said.

If the chain, guides, and tensioner are doing their jobs this won't happen. Even if the chain were loose it would be highly unlikely for them to hit and miss at different RPMs. Also highly unlikely is that they'd hit without bending and causing a compression loss.

Did you guys do the tests?

Gravity. I've never done it on a licked bird, but it's how I bleed almost everything I work on.

Cam chain tensioner is my first thought. The battery thing was likely just a fluke.

The pipes on my Ducati were wrapped and it helped, that bike is a known leg cooker. I've got a ceramic coated stock header for the XX I haven't installed, decided to try out a Yosh 4-1 and haven't switched it out, not sure if I will.

If it was so jacked up that cam timing were off it would effect all cylinders equally. I don't know if it can even get that loose, but it would make a lot of noise for sure.

Lube will change it so that's probably what's happening.

Agreed! I miss my carby. I'll buy yours at full scrap value.

That's all I've ever heard of it doing.

Mine is de-linked and I've never done any work on the linked system so I have no personal knowledge to share. I've read others with similar problems pressed the rear brake really hard and heard a pop noise (suspected to be from the valve) and it has cured their sticking issues. Seems it usually happens after a fairly long period of non-use. For some it's intermittent sticking and others it's every time they use the rear brake. I would try the hard press, if that doesn't work maybe tap the peddle with a hammer to shock the valve. If it clears up I'd re-bleed the rear just to get rid of any crud that may have broken loose.

"Running like it's missing"-misfiring at idle and under power? "no power at any speed"- like a 50cc moped could outrun you, or just not achieving XX power? Carbs appart 3 times trying to cure this, or in the past? Yes, a rich mix can cause a cold burn, I assume by temperature you mean that exhaust pipe is colder? Are there any vacuum hoses on #3 that aren't on the others? I'm thinking maybe the fuel valve and maybe it's leaking, or maybe a canister purge hose, or something else-I don't recall the vacuum hose set-up. If not a hose issue-compression check, replace or at least swap the plugs around, test plug wires with an ohm meter.

I've been thinking about a hugger, PMing.

I'll take the clear tailight, pm on it's way.

Is it fixed, parked, up in smoke???

I would suggest putting a jumper wire to the ground side at the pump and hit the key since you did get + power to the pump wire. If you wanna PM me your phone # it'll be faster and easier to talk it through; altho it may seem a bit daunting right now it should be a simple solution. I'll be out wheelin tomorrow morning but should have a little time in the afternoon.

Assuming the above terminal ID is correct: #1 connects relay output to pump, you could check it with an ohm meter. To check #4 put the meter + wire on the battery + and the - wire on the #4 terminal, turn the key on and it should make connection for a couple seconds then disconnect; that would be the computer signaling the relay to prime the fuel system. I'll try one last time; does the relay click on then off when you turn the key on? If so do you get power at the fuel pump connector?

Just sold it. Advertised at 6500 and let it go at 6100 without any of the extras. Sad moment, but it should be getting enjoyed for more than an ornament. Now to sell the pile of extras.

Possibly. I don't think mine goes that low at idle, but if I were relying on that indicator I'd rather have false alerts at idle than to not know something's starting to go wrong.

Better than nothing, but not better than a voltmeter if you know what to look for and pay attention to it. Having both would be a better option, one to alert and the other to see what's actually happening. The light allowing 13.2 as ok is ridiculous; yes it charging, but not ok. They don't publish the voltages for amber, red, or flashing red; but if 13.2 is considered normal charging I'm guessing the red zone will be below operational voltage for most bikes.

Put that whole stack to the wind and you should be haulin ass.

That appears to be a supply ground, not a control ground. The computer controls the pump via the relay, not the ground.

Did you check the relay function and voltage to the pump as in my recent post? Nothing technical, just a voltmeter or test light.

The link takes me to a humidifier. Never used them before and don't see a search function. Am I dumb or is the site shitty?

Would you measure the amperage draw on it?