superhawk996

The same stuff has been all over Ebay for quite some time, just cheap China stuff. I'd compare their prices then buy from the cheapest source.

Polymer80 lower kit + drill press + 1-2 hrs of your time=paperless lower on the cheap.

Holy shit, I've never seen an AR in wood, that is really cool.

Sooo, are you done lubing and polishing your rod yet?

Damn, and I thought I drank too much before logging on.

Core strength and posture I believe are my biggest issues, and my general spine issues associated with having pretty noticeable scoliosis.

It's gonna compromise the strength of both the peg and mount. Whether it breaks or not depends on how much extra strength was built into the design and how much one weighs. If I were to do this mod I would test them with my full body weight on each one individually, if it passes that it should be fine in normal use.

6', maybe a hair shy. It's never bothered my knees, I ran the Ducati at max raised also and wished for more. Low pegs kill my back, the higher the better for me. When I first got the bike it had a raised seat and Buel pegs and it was murder, stock stuff worked ok, the raised pegs are great. I let my friend ride it a few times and his knees were unhappy. I rode my friend's Nighthawk 750 and within minutes I could tell it wasn't gonna work for me. I lowered the pegs on a friend's SV650 and it was suddenly uncomfortable for me to ride, but at 6'4"ish and having some knee issues he was delighted. Oddly my enduro is perfectly fine for me.

I was anti-AR for a long time, mostly because the fan boys were obnoxious. I stumbled onto an old school classic 20" Colt and bought it. Then I went on to make an 80% 16" flat top. Then I stumbled onto another old Colt 20" that I traded to my best friend who was also anti-AR but liked the classic style as well. I like that they're easy to build however one wants. I haven't become a fan boy, but have started to appreciate the platform; mostly because I can make as many as I want without a paper trail.

Smart simple solution, and thanks for sharing it.

Same here, I wound up installing some Gille's and have them at max height. I assume you could do the same as in the photo but upwards.

The guy next to me today was shooting a braked Lapua, fucking asshole. He was actually a really nice guy, but FUCK.

I have no unregistered hammers, nothing here to see; it's So.Cal. for fuck's sake! I've only shot 40gr. CCI hollow points, but there are 35s too. The box says they do 1875FPS, my chrono says they only do about 1875ish out of my gun. I put it on paper today for the first time and only second time shooting it. 100yrds. with the stock irons and made 4 or 5 out of 10 on a 3" sticker; I was pretty pleased. Hit some steel about 4" wide at 200 which was amazing. I have the papers on the MAS here somewhere, but don't recall the specifics. I read that they can be ammo finicky favoring the lighter 7.62X51 and disliking .308. I loaded up 50 rnds. from min to max 7.62 book loads with some cheap bulk powder and bullets and also bought some .308 and it shot them all with no issue. Can't speak to accuracy as I was just shooting stuff we brought out to the desert, but it functioned and shot well. It was definitely hitting within minute of can/bottle/rock/cactus from up close to kinda far so it's confirmed to be dead on accurate! I cranked the sight up to 400 meters and shot some stuff way up on a hill and hit it too. Haven't been able to test the grenade launcher for accuracy, but at least it's all intact. The .338 is a 77 as you suspected, Mark2 stainless on a beautiful wood stock. I have a love/hate relationship with it. It's beautiful and bad ass, but punishing if loaded to full power. My GF shot it last weekend and scoped herself, got some blood. Today I scoped myself for the first time ever, just a tap on the nose to let me know I needed to get a better position; I knew I was in a bad position but figured it would be ok. I'm also trying out a Chinese scope that has short eye relief, the scope it came with is likely better suited and will probably go back on. I talked to an old timer today at the range, he uses lighter bullets in his and it hits more acceptably while still reaching out to 500+ pretty well. I've been shooting 200 and 250 gr. bullets loaded somewhat hot and it hurts. It's got about 70 rnds. through it now. I have no hunting plans and just wanted a scoped rifle to do some semi long range target shooting with and this fell into my lap so I grabbed it. It can be loaded down but I thought I wanted to swing the big sledge.

I don't believe a .308 win mag exists. There is the .308 Norma Mag, first high power gun I shot back around 1990ish and I may just buy it now that it's become available to me. There may be some other .308 mag variants I don't know about.

A few on my likely to sell list: .22 Magnum bolt action, Ruger .44Mag. RS carbine, MAS 49 in .308, Ruger .338 WinMag. All will take a yote, the latter 3 with extra authority. All are paper trail free. All but the 308 are going out to play tomorrow, didn't have the desire to load up .308s and only have about 15 left.

While the rod is out roll it on a flat surface to make sure it's perfectly straight.

You've done quite a bit to make it nice, good job. A good solution for the spare is underneath the bed somewhere. It not only frees up tongue space for a tool or utility box but also keeps the tire shaded extending its life. Many couplers are adjustable and I've seen them so loose that they'd clear the ball when locked. You don't want it clamping the ball hard, but minimal free play. Check the springs, mounts, and U bolts; visually inspect everything and put a wrench to each fastener to make sure they're tight. Check the lug nuts and recheck them after 25, 50, 100 miles re-torqueing as needed; something about the way trailer wheels are made they tend to compress or something. They'll stop loosening within a few tightenings. Also verify that they haven't been cranked down by a mad man with a mega impact gun so hard that you can't remove them with your road-side tool, that sucks balls. My friend forgot to re-torque his on a sea-doo trailer and I got to see the joke of having your tire pass you on the freeway. It went across the lane to our left then following the camber of the road it crossed in front of us as we slowed stopping on the right shoulder leaned against the k-rail with no incident other than a ground up trailer hub. That wheel had been installed by a shop about 50 miles before it came off. Had it continued going left there would have been 7 or 8 lanes of fairly heavy traffic for it to play with. We were in a spot where 3 freeways join & split in an area where half the drivers are Asian, that coulda been a serious mess. Spin each tire and make sure the bearings are smooth & quiet with minimal free play. If there's any amount of grumbling noise replace them. Complete bearing kits are cheap, grease is cheap; being flat-bedded home because a hub and axle got destroyed isn't cheap, especially if the cargo or a following car gets trashed in the process.

There's no need to bolt it down at all four corners and with a bike on it no bolts/nuts are needed just something for them to hook onto. I would use just the studs at the front and add wing nuts only for empty transport to keep them from being able to bounce off. It's not a lot of work to swap them so I get it, just suggesting it could be even easier.

It's only been like 14 years; what's the rush? And yes.

I'm surprised you can still buy new black ones? Hit it with zinc chromate primer first and it could last 20 years under water. There may be better things out there, but it's the only primer I've used for aluminum as the only aluminum I've painted is for boat outdrives & outboards and that primer is what everyone uses for marine stuff. I'm 99% sure that the stator couldn't heat it enough to have bubbled the paint even if it fried, there are much hotter parts of the engine and I assume they all get the same paint. It was most likely flawed from the start or road debris damaged the paint and allowed humidity to start working at it.

I probably shouldn't, but it looks sexy and I'm very curious to play with it so yup.

Are you saying that a bad stator will toast the paint on the stator cover?

I have the same .308 set but without the micrometer. Does the micrometer make seating any more precise or is it just to make it easier to make changes? I assume that if it uses the same seating plug it wouldn't make a difference to precision.

Holy crap, DIBS!

Unless you've owned it since new and have never let it out of your sight there's no way to know what may have happened. As for the paint, you could go to a paint supply place with it and have them color match and blend you up a spray can of an exact match, but likely that any gloss black spray paint would do since you can't see both sides at the same time to see that it doesn't match. I don't think the temperature there would demand a high temp paint.