superhawk996

I'll take everything you have in M or L.

A good degreaser (Castrol SuperClean is my favorite, but Simple Green will do) and hot water. If you have a small round brush that'll fit it would be a bonus. Blow out with compressed air if you have it, or non-residue plastics safe electronics cleaner, or just hang to dry. Carb cleaner and brake cleaner would do a great job on the metal parts but may damage the hoses.

Good point! I think he's only doing the lines, but yes flushing them is a very good idea. A guy I used to work with went through two sets of bearings before realizing the cooler was full of junk from the initial engine failure.

I get a lag sometimes when I hit the 'submit reply' button, it gets stuck on 'saving'. Sometimes just a brief delay and other times it appears it'll never change. Usually hitting refresh will fix it, a couple times my content disappeared. Hasn't happened lately so I'll report back if it does it again.

There are times I use all 5; primer pocket uniformer, pp cleaner, de-crimper, chamfer, and de-burr. This last round of 700 .223 I just used de-burr and chamfer removing the crimps with the chamfer tool. I did it all at the dining table with TV or youtube entertainment and some .org breaks. I also did my trimming here using a Trim-It with tape wrapped around it to contain the crap, that thing can fling shit pretty far. I'll keep thinking about the Trio and very cool that you're donating it.

Tap the bolt heads with a small hammer, but don't smash them up, impact helps break them loose. Tapping it while putting pressure on it with a wrench may do the trick. If you have a small impact gun give it a try. 1/4" or 3/8" drive preferably but a 1/2" gun turned down to avoid breaking the bolts will do.

I checked and yes, there are adapters that let you fit a hose with threaded AN fittings rather than the pipe/hose originally used. I got them from Cecome and I'm pretty sure he got them from CBRbear if you wanna ask him where they came from. I have a pair and don't think I'll need them, one for each end which will allow one aftermarket hose to be fitted from engine to cooler if both ends are the same, I didn't compare to know for sure. It's an aluminum flange that bolts to the engine in place of the original with a threaded nipple sticking out the other end to connect a hose to, they look to be good quality. If there's enough good pipe left you could cut it and clamp on a high pressure hose. The pipe would probably need a flare formed to positively retain the hose otherwise it could slip off under pressure. A hydraulic supply shop that makes hose assemblies might be able to do it for you.

He's new, he's learning; kudos for the lesson.

Aerokroil, or just Kroil. The aero is the aerosol version. Is the pipe cracked, leaking at the pipe to hose junction, or leaking right where the pipe connects to the engine? I think there are adapters that let you attach a braided hose to the engine eliminating the factory pipe/hose set up, might cost less.

I debated that one mostly to keep things Horna Red. I ended up buying a different one, Lyman I think, that has 5 stations on top. I like that it keeps all the junk contained, and that it has the option of 5 tools, but wonder if the side tooling might be more ergonomic. Do you have experience with others?

Doesn't give miles, mistake or ? Appears to be lowered. It's pretty damn nice looking.

It doesn't need to be level unless you've got air trapped in it. If you need to, center stand the bike then tilt it and slip something under the left foot of the stand.

That might be a short term fix, flush the fluid. You can simply open the bleeder and let gravity do the work, as long as you don't let the master run dry you won't have any battles. Let the fluid run low before you add more so the old stuff gets out of there. Then keep up on doing it regularly and you should be good.

I can see that happening, but not a power wheelie--just on the gas, no clutching or tugging and it lifts in 2nd or 3rd. Assuming it hasn't been re-jetted for the altitude you should get a noticeable boost. If it's been jetted it may loose power and could be hazardous to the engine as it'll be lean.

Now you're just fucking with me...3rd, no way. Unless it's geared way down and modded up. My '97 wouldn't power lift in second either, it was bone stock.

If it power lifted in 2nd it's got some friggin balls. Mine won't lift in 2nd with stock or the full Yoshi exhaust. Other than a K&N and suspension it's stock. I've only done runs with one other XX and mine was quicker at the lower RPM pulls at least, not sure how they compared up high but I think he had a slight edge; this was before I Yoshied it which lost a little of the low and gained some high according to the assometer.

Are you using the RPM in place of a speed signal or both? I think my manual said you could use just the RPM if desired.

Sweet, I thought I remembered them being grounded but wasn't sure. ABS; check your owner's manual, it may give the codes according to the sequence of warning light flashes.

With most ignition systems the coil gets constant power and the ground side is the one that fires the coil: any chance the bird is wired backwards? I've never paid attention to its wiring. Or any chance you tapped into the wrong wire? If it has constant ground and is positive fired the cruise wouldn't see the fluctuations it's looking for. I read the manual for my audiovox cruise I've had sitting around, I assume it's the same model (something 100 I think). The manual made it seem like the ignition signal might be optional, but maybe not. It talks about setting it to use the ignition signal in place of a speed sensor signal if desired, but in the installation instructions it doesn't say the ignition signal is optional. I wanted to install one on my diesel van, but if it needs an ignition signal it won't work unless I install something that gives it an ignition looking signal. Are these things still sold? I've had mine a bunch of years, caught them on clearance at Kragen auto parts and bought the last three they had.

She sure is purdy. Glad it's not a '97 or I'd be tempted, woulda kept mine if it'd been that perfect looking. Some of the garage pics make the seat look grey, probably not an issue to a smart buyer, just pointing it out.

I don't know the difference between the GT and normal. Could be harder compound, stiffer construction, better heat dissipation, or? You should try to find out the details in the difference and then judge if it'll be a benefit or detriment. It seems you don't need the GT so you couldn't go wrong with the regular but the GT might be better suited for you depending on it's differences.

You could rig a 'flow bench' with a shop vac and vacuum gauge or a simple flow meter used to sync carbs. Won't give you CFM numbers but will give numbers to work with. You could start with just removing any sharp edges and blending the seats in, maybe back-cutting the valves; chuck it up on a drill press and grind/file while it spins. Been so long since I looked in a Bird head I don't recall if there were obvious easy things to address.

+1 I discovered their existence when I got a Ducati, I think they're standard issue, and they're the shit.

I bought a '97 then an '01. Both had spend time outside and on their sides, both had 50k plus miles, neither had issues other than some fading and broken tool straps.

Since the O2 signal is ignored under heavy throttle I don't see the point in deleting it. It should keep the mixture at an ideal level from idle to medium load which will maximize mileage and minimize carbon. Unless you know that it helps it's foolish to delete it. If you still have the cats you'll want to remove them before removing the O2s or they'll probably get killed and then become a restriction as they carbon up.