superhawk996

If there's enough sticking out to get some vise-grips on it do that. I use small ones that have serrated tips, you don't wanna use smooth jaws on something that small. Clean up the release spray and any oil to avoid a fire, rarely happens but better to be safe, heat it with a torch and try. If there's not enough to grab, use a dremel and make a slot in it for a screwdriver to fit. If you cut into the aluminum a little don't sweat it, you'll probably only get one chance so make sure the slot is deep enough to get a good bite onto it. Heat it up and if you have an impact screwdriver try that, if not a regular screwdriver. Lightly tapping the sides with a light hammer while twisting with pliers or screwdriver can help greatly. Use a very light hammer, you want to shock it but not damage it and a light hammer swung faster will usually do a better job than a heavy one swung slower. If you aren't in a hurry, letting the release spray work at it, assuming it's something useful, can help. What is the release spray you're using? Warm it up, spray, tap the sides, let cool a couple hours, and repeat. The heating/cooling can help draw the spray in, tapping it helps break the bond and remove corrosion allowing the spray to penetrate better. I'm a big fan of Kroil if you have it available, or make a mixture of ATF and acetone, it shows promise of being better than most penetrants on the market. If you can slip a small piece of hose onto the piece sticking out you can make a reservoir for the oil to sit in and soak onto the bolt, but this won't replace heating and tapping to help get that oil in there. If it has to be drilled out; grind it flat, put the pump on, use a transfer punch to get a centered starting point. I'm just waking up so some better ideas may come along.

I've used the cheap HF "automatic battery float charger", they run a whopping $5 or $6 when they go on sale. The couple I tested held at or just below 13.2. I don't think they have any 'smarts' in them that would shut one down. Rated output is .4 amps, not gonna do much for recharging a low battery, but I've never had one go low while in storage. I've only used it on car size batteries in my boats, both starting and deep cycle wet cells and would occasionally plug it into the Optima starting batt. to keep it up. As with any charger/maintainer, especially a cheap one, don't trust it 'till you test it and check your battery voltage as often as reasonably possible while in storage.

In Ca. being 'totaled' results in a salvage branding no matter the extent of the damage or vehicle value and it can be re-titled and registered after a simple inspection. They only get branded if it's been paid off by an insurance co. You can wreck the shit out of something and as long as an insurance co. didn't pay it off it carries a clean title. Woulda never imagined an insurance co. would determine a vehicle as junk and render it unregisterable, that goes against it's value to them.

The thingy just acting as a voltmeter? If so the battery was being charged and either it needed more time to reach a full charge or the charger is bad and not detecting the state of charge.

Do you know what voltage it maintains on the battery? Over 13.2 and you risk cooking it and loosing the water, especially in hot weather. Below 13 and it may not effectively prevent sulphation.

Tested the load load and get 13.9; ? 13.9 battery volts, 13.9 charger volts, 13.9 amps charging current? If it's 13.9v on the battery side of the connector with the charger disconnected then it's obviously connected and charging. 13.9 while charging doesn't mean much, other than the battery was low or the charger is very low power.

Just took a glance and yes, you can register a salvage vehicle there too so you do have options.

I don't think the insurance co. can report it as junk, that happens when it's sold to a junk yard/dismantler. It'll likely be a salvage and in most or all states they can be re-titled pretty easily. I've had a few salvage title bikes and they're no problem, just a simple light & brake inspection and it's back on the road. If Oklahoma is different I don't know, but don't believe the word of the insurance guy on it. If you decide to part it out: I've been considering slip-ons so I might be in for them. It looks to have aftermarket rotors & levers, I might be interested, and maybe in any other farkles. Trying to sell a low mileage odometer....well that just sounds like you're inviting someone to falsify their mileage and if that's your selling point I don't want any parts. If I'm misunderstanding then all's good.

The description says dark grey & black, but the picture looks like white or light grey & black--? What's your inseam and how low do they go on your legs?

I've always had a sweet spot for those. I'll open the bidding at $500.

Mac 4-2...no wonder it's raspy, there's two cylinders with no exhaust system dude. BASTARD! Wouldn't be a bad idea to crack the drain screws and get the last bit out. Tho more involved and maybe not worth it, when I've decided to put a bike in storage I like to dose it with 2 stroke oil, slosh it to coat the tank, run it to coat the cylinders, then drain the carbs. Before start-up drain & fill the tank. Maybe overkill if you know you'll ride again somewhat soon, but I've made the mistake of thinking I would and not getting around to it for a long time.

Roll it outside, turn the choke off, and maybe throw a rev or two. Let us hear it right dammit.

I'm interested, depends on the model and the $.

3rd & 4th gears only, doubt it.

That's very odd. Rather than concentrate on trying to find the source I'd first look at why only in the right grip. If there was an actual problem causing a vibration it seems it should be felt in both, and possibly in the seat, and possibly heard. Only in two gears and in a short RPM range, could be normal harmonics being felt because of something in that clip-on, fork, etc. and not be an actual fault causing the vibration; just a thought.

Problem is that even a good chain jumps around at idle. Unless you've done it with a good chain you'd have no idea what bad looks like.

Fuckin mechanics...but they're kinda right. You can activate them with a battery and pair of wires with alligator clips. It's just an electric valve kinda like a lawn sprinkler. You can rig a can of carb cleaner to a hose to the injector then open the injector with electricity to let the fluid flow. You can use a 12v battery but don't hold it powered, just short spurts. A 9v battery would be safer so you pretty much can't overheat the coils. Realistically it would probably take some effort to fry one on a bench, but better safe than sorry. So you could soak them in a can or bottle, activate & spray, soak,....as needed.

They can and I have. Unless the CBR injectors have something about them that would be damaged by soaking, that I don't know.

Carb cleaner, put them in a jar or can and spray a bunch in there and cap it. Agitate it from time to time. And if you can pull the screens out it would be a good idea so you can back-flush them, if not just spray them really well. If you rig the injectors up to back flush with the carb spray it might help too. If the dead ones click they're probably cleanable and good, if they don't they might be done. The ethanol probably isn't the cause of them getting stuck, the mistake was draining the fuel but not completely emptying the rails and injectors. Had the system remained full or completely emptied and dry they'd probably be fine. When a fuel system is emptied some soft parts harden so check the hoses, gaskets, etc. and keep an eye out for leaks for a while after you get it running again. If nothing leaks somewhat soon you're probably fine, some early leaks will self-heal after a bit of soak time.

Is the cylinder dead under power or only at idle? If only at idle check to make sure the fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking fuel into the vacuum line. Put a screwdriver tip on the injector and the handle to your ear, you should be able to hear it clicking. Not a guarantee it's injecting, but a quick way to know it's dead if it's silent. Compression loss could be valves, not just piston. I got a motor with burnt valves, they were left too tight by a mechanic. It seems very odd that disconnecting an injector from a dead cylinder shut the motor off. Maybe the computer is wired to do that, odd.

Did he loose a bet?

Smart thinking. I always know that I'm smart enough and good enough to keep it from happening, but it seems that brake fluid is a paint magnet and the harder one tries to keep them apart the higher the likelihood they'll meet. Target fixation perhaps. When I plan it out and cover everything and have a hose ready, no spills. If I take the cover screws off without covering up it's almost a guarantee that the shit will explosively spray everywhere.

I don't know what the manual states. I'd start at the closest nipple and work down the line following my previous post.

Some type of suction device makes it pretty quick & easy, if you don't have one you can let gravity do the work for you. Suck the old fluid out of the master or let it drain as low as possible on the first nipple. Refill and drain 'till fresh fluid is coming out, then move on to the next nipple in the line while regularly checking that the master doesn't go empty. Gravity is slower than pumping but easier and less likely to make a mess. If fluid gets on paint don't wipe, immediately rinse with water; having a hose nearby and ready is a good idea. Plastic and some other stuff can be hurt too so rinse those if they get any fluid. Dot 5 isn't hygroscopic, sounds great 'till water gets in and settles to the lowest point. Since the fluid won't absorb it the only way to get it out is to disassemble the calipers or whatever it gets into. With dot 3 & 4 water stays in suspension and flushing removes it. That said, I've never flushed any of my vehicles unless the fluid looks shitty and have never had a problem. Every once in a while it comes to mind and I think "I should do this" then I go on to something else. Too many vehicles, not enough time/fucks to give. Some day I might pick up a gallon and dedicate a day to doing the fleet.

Damn, I'd forgotten the stocker does that. Our freeways are pretty shitty overall and the cement ones have nasty bumps where the slabs meet, that constant rhythmic bumping sucks. Beats on the spine, shakes your head/helmet... There are some spots and speeds where it still does it, but not as bad. Over long bumps and dips if feels like it's tighter, moves less and doesn't bottom, on the little sharp bumps it feels softer. I'm guessing it has more low speed dampening and less high speed, something that good shocks often achieve. It looks like it has used the bump stop, but not in a while as it has a good dust layer. I'm only about 175#, carry minimal luggage, and no passengers. I still have the stock shock and get curios to compare, but haven't been curious enough to hassle with swapping. Edit: Next time you're in SoCal come give it a feel.