superhawk996

Speaking of which. Mine's too low and I thought about adjusting the pushrod on the wax unit, tho I haven't investigated it beyond looking it up in the manual. The book warns not to mess with the adjustment. Is there any issue with adjusting it? I assume it's just an emissions reason that they say not to mess with it, but wondered if there's a real reason to not mess with it, like maybe something can be damaged by adjusting it.

If it's only getting stuck high after a cold start I'd say it's the wax unit or something else in the fast idle circuit getting stuck, otherwise probably not.

So while running the idle went up, or after parking it and it cooling down it was high on the next start?

And no, they weren't stolen, they were from Suzuki America. When Suzuki cars went away all their dealer tools were auctioned off and these were Suzuki branded units. Years later a buddy that does e-waste got a bunch of other Suzuki stuff that I helped him sell, some of which I sold here.

I didn't, and wouldn't pay that much for it. But it is cool as hell. It's more than just a charger, it's also a battery and car system analyzer. It'll put out mega amps for charging, I've seen over 70a displayed, don't know the max. It can 'see' a bad rectifier or other alternator component just by clamping the leads to the car's battery cable terminals, pretty cool. I bought a bunch of them for under $200 each from someone that didn't know how to sell them. I sold them all but one, the ugliest one that would fetch the least $. I sold them for $1k-$2k each, mostly on eBay. I keep contemplating selling this last one, then once in a while it comes in handy so I keep it around. http://www.midtronics.com/shop/products-1/battery-chargers-and-maintenance-products/diagnostic-chargers/gr-series/midtronics-gr8-series-diagnostic-battery-chargers

I have nitrogen and could rig up a fitting....I think, I'd have to re-check my bastard gas cylinder pile. I think it's 150 PSI, but not sure. I did buy it used and gave re-tuning some thought, pretty sure the PO was heavier than I am. There's lots of places I could send it, but I assume the manufacturer is more likely to have the latest updated parts & service procedures. The guy I talked to at Penske told me there are closer places that would save me $ on shipping. When I asked if he had one he'd recommend, no. It could be covering their asses, or just wanting the work; don't know, but he didn't seem to be at all pushy about me sending it to them VS someone else. They supposedly dyno test every shock after rebuilding, that should at least reduce the chance of getting a mistake shipped back. Before I send it to Penske I'll be researching local shops and go from there. It's possible that another shop will do stuff better than Penske, don't know.

Don't be too quick to jump on them. "Trickle charger" is a loose term, it could be .01 amps, or several amps. Regardless, almost any charger will be fine for an initial charge as long as it doesn't pump out too many amps or volts. I've revived many car size batteries with a "trickle charger". There are "ideal" charge rates and just as many exceptions to the rules. The battery charger that's been most successful for me is only rated at 2 amps and it has resurrected batteries that my $3000 charger/analyzer said were fucked, it does so by breaking some of the 'rules' of charging batteries. The mega dollar charger also breaks some of the 'rules' of charging. I assume Midtronics knew what they were doing when they programmed it, $3k is a lot of money.

If the battery was still connected to the bike you still need to verify that something on the bike isn't draining it. If the battery was disconnected and self-discharged to 11.7 then it's definitely done.

I'll chime in, the battery with a full charge and no loads should sit at 12.7. 12.5 is acceptable, but any less indicates a problem. 12 would indicate it's completely fucked.

I just talked to them and the guy said the likely cause is the urethane extension bumper has deteriorated and the material is clogging up the valves. Explains why it's a time failure and not just miles. They've switched materials so it shouldn't happen again. I was gonna rebuild it myself, but it might be worth letting the pros do it. They charge $150 + return shipping. I'll figure out which route to take once I remove it and see if I'm in the mood to crack into it.

Thank you! My gut said it was the shock but I'd never heard of a shock doing this, maybe it's a Penske thing. It's comforting to know yours was still rebuildable after doing that.

Your mom told me that several medical journals say it makes great sex lube. Apparently the stuff is also promoted by cosmetic surgeons cuz I now need an addadicktome and yo mamma's sphincter looks & smells like a burnt tire.

You know you were passed by a computer geek when he has that instead of a trusty spool of bailing wire on his bike.

Just remembered that I have a metric fuck ton of WD-40, and finally a use for it after reading about chain cleaning with it.

The few times I've cleaned I used SuperClean, Grunge Brush, and water. After rinsing I grab 6th gear on the center stand and rip it up to high speed for a bit to dry it off, then lube.

What are XX's worth in 2018? About the same as they were in 2017, as much as someone will pay for it. ☺️

They surpassed halogen a long time ago. Issues are similar to HID kits; cheapo China shit, choosing the right color, and beam patterns. A drop-in that works well in one housing may suck in another. Some of the car replacements I've seen are adjustable so you can focus them. LED headlights and off-road style light bars have always sucked for my eyes, then I got to see the expensive ones Carlos put on his Jeep. I'd say it would be kinda like upping the voltage on a set of halogens, or comparable to good HIDs.

Good point. Pretty sure all I had was an EFI header at that time.

I don't know what you paid for the bike, but with enough mods it'll hit the $7G mark.

And much of that impact is due to having this forum, without it we'd just be a bunch of people with cool bikes.

Sounds like it's just a bad battery. LiFePo4 are a bit spendy, but awesome. Super light & small, they crank strong, recharge quickly, and have almost no self-discharge. It can sit on a shelf neglected for a year, drop it in and start the bike. When I put mine in the cranking speed went up to where it sounded almost like the bike had no compression.

I believe the linkage is stock. I too lean towards the shock being the problem. It's rebuildable as long as the body isn't damaged. If something's gone so wrong that there's that much friction in it my guess is that the body would be fucked. I have no idea how many miles are it, but it was supposedly from a group buy which was many years ago. If the linkage turns out to be ok I'll open the shock up and see what it looks like. And actually, it should probably be serviced anyway to prevent it becoming fucked up.

Anything's possible. There's so much leverage on everything it's hard to imagine how it could happen. Hopefully whatever it is becomes obvious once I tear into it even tho the problem seems to be heat related. I haven't checked it again after the last time it got hot & tight, but it's been through at least three cycles of doing this and coming back to seemingly normal after it sits.

Took a ride a few weeks ago and while sitting at a stop light I felt the rear pop up a bit, not enough to be sure, but it seemed like it. After that it seemed a little stiff, but figured it all musta been in my head. After a couple more rides it's definitely got a problem. It seems fine cold but something is binding up as it gets hot. After my last ride I tried to center stand it from the seat, parking is tight so it's the best option, and I couldn't get it up. 😶 I stepped off and lifted on the grab bar and it creaked and lifted. I was then able to center stand it. It has a little over 50k miles and a Penske shock with unknown miles. I think it's the shock, but figured I'd check to see if anyone's got ideas before I start digging in. Looking at the linkage I don't see anything obviously wrong. My thought at this point is to remove the shock and if I can't find an issue with the linkage/swingarm I'll swap in a stock shock to see what happens hot.

So many possibilities. Try the starting fluid, easy way to narrow down if it's a spark or fuel issue. What area do you live in?