superhawk996

I need to get one for Cecome's bike and remembered that there might an automotive replacement, it's for a '97. If I can save him a few bucks and get one at Oreilly or amazon instead of Honda that would be great. The one that comes up for me on amazon doesn't look right and has no temp statement so I'm leery.

Just a shitty header. Cecome bought his motor complete from air box to mufflers, he did that to eliminate any potential of upsetting the tuning that was done assuming it was properly tuned and running at peak performance. Then he brought me his bike to try to fix the slow out of it, he figured it needed re-tuning or maybe something needed fixing. When he first told me he thought the bike was gutless I thought "impossible, he bought the whole power package off that million dollar bike". As soon as I saw the header on it I knew I had to start there instead of tuning. It's odd that Bear never noticed the bike being underpowered but maybe he thought it was just because he's a big guy. Unless he swapped the header when he sold it all to Cecome, but that seems unlikely. Even tho I hadn't ridden mine in a while his was fairly obviously under powered. Then I took mine for a spin and got a reminder of what these things do. I just realized that he bought the motor out of a whitebird then brought it to the owner of another whitebird to fix it; what are the odds?

And while it was a beautiful and greatly farkled bike, it was gutless.

Something you forgot to put in your ad: adult ridden, babied, never raced. :-)

5'2", 118#, sopping wet, and free?!? I'll take her.

Mine used to do the same! Then I put a LiFePo4 battery in it and it's more like ziiiing vroom wub wub wub.

I think starter. Pull it and put a little oil on the bearings, assuming they're just plain bearings, and you'll know. If it has ball bearings they should have numbers you can use to get replacements from any supplier if they're bad.

Looks like the shit that comes off a lathe, kinda crazy.

How the hell is someone a member for 3+ years without a single post?

First verify that the fan will fit, it's pretty tight in there. Brackets if they'll hold it tightly enough so that it can't rattle around and beat up the radiator. Or zipties and put foam or something between the fan & rad., or both.

The connection was probably loose or dirty causing it to get hot. You could just cut that wire and its mate on the other end and put terminals on them to reconnect outside the factory connector. If you can hunt down the right terminals you could fix it to remain within the connector. If that connector plugs straight into the instrument cluster and not another connector then you might have to get more creative.

Hahahahaha. I bought an SV650s with a rusty and seized pump. Tore into it and freed it up and it worked great. Fixed a few other things, prettied it up, rode it for a while, then flipped it for 3 or 4X what I paid. The pump on my JX650LJ, Seca turbo, was seized when I got it and a replacement was $700. Cut the can open, fixed it, and resealed it. A little bit of a battle, but not a $700 battle.

You sure? Mine don't look like LEDs, but I guess a good LED set up like Honda would do won't be obvious. Some LED swaps I've seen look kinda crappy.

I've blown through many fuel filters to asses restriction; what happened?

Red. Easy to see and doesn't fuck with your vision, it's what most boat instruments use. You can make it pretty bright and still won't fuck with your vision.

Maybe he'll subsidize you. I don't recall the resistances, but maybe you can graft in a universal replacement. Or maybe Zero wants to keep his new one and sell you a working used one at a decent price. I assume it can't be returned, or at the least would be subject to shipping and a restocking fee.

The sender shouldn't go bad from sitting, unless it rusted out. You might be able to clean it up and make it work again, or buy Zero's new one and be set for life.

Why would the sender, as simple as it is in design, go bad? Why would a wire connection, as much more simple as it is in design, go bad? The same could be asked about thousands of things that just wear out or fail, sometimes with no visible signs or warnings of impending doom. Just sticking to the bird I can think of a few quick examples of things that frequently fail without notice and without visible signs of having failed, CCT, stator, R/R....the three most common failures on a bird.

When powered off some gauges stay put, some drop, some just kinda float. My recollection is that my analog XX dropped. The gauge is a simple thing, as are the sender and wires, but obviously there's a flaw in one of those simple things. It's a good idea to check out the connector that Fur pointed out, especially because it can save the harness from major damage, but my bet is with the gauge after the testing you did.

It's a temp switch with a long skinny prong you push through the fins then put a clip on the back so the body of it stays pressed to the rad core to sense temp. There's adjustable and non-adjustable versions. The adjustable takes up a lot of space so I'd use the non-adjustable for a bike and adjust it by moving it to hotter/colder parts of the rad 'till it's to my liking. There's also surface mount switches made for generic uses that can be glued or otherwise attached to a surface. I've seen one that actually slips into a hose connection so that the sensor is in the coolant and a thin wire is clamped down between the hose and fitting. I assume some kind of sealant would have to be used around the wire but didn't investigate it. Another option might be to T in a sensor along with the factory sensor for the gauge. There should be a way to rig something that works off the resistance output of the factory sensor but I don't know electronics well enough to know how to do it. Carlos probably does. That would be pretty cool as it could be adjusted to one's liking.

I think it's a carbie.

Like you didn't do with the sender. The manual confirms my belief, if the sender and wiring is good it's the gauge. What it's doing is odd, but it's something that a wire issue just couldn't do as far as I know.....BZITE. Someone here may have a gauge laying around to sell ya cheap.

Howd I guess it wouldn't be the sender? So your open/closed circuit test told you that the gauge & wiring is good but senders don't sweep from open to closed circuit, they sweep from one amount of resistance to another. A few are closed at one end or the other, none are ever open at either end. You were basically sending overpowered signals to the gauge so you got max and min readings even tho there's a fault. You can verify buy testing the resistance of your senders and see what their range is which will pretty much verify that the old one is good if it matches the new one. I doubt it could be wiring, a resistance or power issue should make it read too high or too low all the time. I assume it's a bad gauge unless the sender arm was sticking and unable to make its full swing when in the tank, pretty unlikely if its smooth feeling and makes a full stroke out of the tank without major resistance...unless you have added anti-slosh stuff or something to the tank.

I assume that's an EFI rad you bought. I'd first verify that it'll mount up. I know they mount differently between EFI & carb but don't know if there's anything different to the radiator mounting points. As far as running it full time it'll put more wear on the motor. You could get a surface mount switch and wire that in to keep it automatic.

Compressed air. They can pop pretty violently so put a wood block or something in there so they don't fly out. You can use a manual pump or one of those cigarette lighter plug ins and it'll probably be more controlled, but I'd still use a block to be on the safe side.