superhawk996

For the most part, yes. But sometimes there's actually a good reason to use their product, or at the least something that meets their specs. Some parts really do need 'special' fluids.

I would spend the $ and keep with the factory stuff. Most likely you can get the non-branded version of it at a parts store, they've had every coolant type I've looked for; Mercedes, Toyota, etc. There are so many different flavors these days, kinda like ATF.

I recently did some reading about coolants & bikes. Lots of people using Prestone, many with several years & miles on it, and not one issue I could find. My understanding is that the long life stuff is silica free and only the older stuff had it, but not positive. Most generic coolants say "safe for all cars & light trucks" and/or "mixes with any color coolant" on them and it's sorta true, but not really.

Yea, how can you guarantee that the front won't fall off if you don't loft it to verify?!?

Allowing him to take delivery without personally confirming that it's in proper condition would be an asshole move, you're a better man than that. And describe the ride experience as well as possible for us that will probably never have the chance. But I totally understand the reservation of taking 60ish thousand dollars for a joy ride.

The corroded wires will need to be removed to have a reliable connection. At the very least you'll need to clean the wires down to clean copper at the connection points.

Maybe just luck, or maybe there was some force put on the connector that tweaked it. There's a fair bit of heat there so if the connector was under some pressure from the hose routing it may have deformed it. The return runs hotter than the supply line.

As the pads wear the fluid goes down so there may be nothing wrong.

Most likely the bolt is loose or maybe the washer/seal is bad, a bad casting would be my last suspicion. The washers are never to be reused, but I have many times. Before removing the bolt put a zip tie on the brake lever holding it in, doesn't need to be full pressure squeeze, just a little. This locks the fluid in the master so the system doesn't drain while you work on stuff. As for the noise from the front brake, I'd check the secondary master on the left caliper and the caliper pins.

The first time I used iridiums was in my Superhawk 996. It had around 6k miles, plugs looked fine and it ran fine, but after reading a few people boasting improvements from switching I put a set in. My assumption is that because they have such a thin center electrode there's greater exposure allowing for a better burn. With rare exception, I don't see a reason to not use the longest lasting plugs available. I've seen a few cases of an engine running noticeably different with different types of plugs, some plugs that work great in one engine suck in another. A spark plug has one simple job, yet they can do mysterious stuff.

Took the 10-22 out yesterday and as expected, it ran great. I put a few rounds of .22 long through it just to see what would happen, I expected possible failure, but no problems. .22 short, as expected, fired but failed to eject and wouldn't load from the mag.

That is possibly the sexiest bike ever made, the sound is intoxicating. If memory serves correctly, Ducati sold them at a loss just to hit the required number made to be able to race as a production bike. If I had $40k laying around I'd already be on my way to you.

Dropped often, now there's something you don't see in most ads. Cool bike, I'm glad it's so far away otherwise I'd be tempted.

They seem to be hit & miss, but mostly good from what I know. One option is warranty service if it's still covered. The other, if the rounds are sticking on the way into the chamber, is knocking the small 'lip' off where the ramp meets the chamber, and a ramp polishing for good measure. Polishing alone might cure it. I hate shooting guns I've never gotten to play with, but I guess we can take it shooting and play with it to hopefully figure out the issue.

Holy shit, they have gone crazy! Is Terry writing their gun laws?

Acetone, sand blaster, yellow paint....whatever it takes. And wow, the crazy that brought this thread back to life is impressive.

You should send that to Dave for a cleaning.

Sweet, that means my tube fed .22s just went up in value. I'm assuming a detachable magazine is one of the features defining an AW. Seems like WA is competing with CA to see who can push through the most restrictive gun laws. On the upside, several WA Sheriffs and/or chiefs (probably only in the rural areas) have gone on record saying they won't enforce ridiculous gun laws. They were asked "aren't you sworn to enforce the laws"? Yes, and I swore to uphold the constitution of the US which is a higher law. On the same day this thing becomes a death machine in WA, we start having background checks for ammo. One of the conditions for passing the instant background check is that you own a gun so I'll no longer be qualified.

Of all the guns I've sold this one bugged me the most. They all bug me to some degree because I want at least one of every gun ever made, but $ & space don't allow that. Anyway, I recently realized that I don't have a .22 with the flexibility of this model and very few pretty guns so I needed this back. Luckily the purchaser is a friend so after a few years gone I got it back today. According to the interwebs it's a 1994. From memory, when I got it it appeared to have little or no use and I sold it right after I got it without ever getting to shoot it. My friend said he only put around 25 rounds through it. I opened it up and it didn't show much for wear or grime, but I did a full cleaning including opening the mag, which also looked pretty clean inside. As always, some Hornady spray made everything smoother than it was. The receiver & barrel band appear to have some kind of clear coat type stuff on them with some scratches & chipping, but I'm not gonna mess with them 'till I know what it is and if it can be easily cleaned up. I'll probably take it to Carlos' this week for the test run, and pick up a real magazine for it while I'm in America. A Ruger BX25 unless someone has a better suggestion. Anyone got any specific ammo advice for accuracy with these or is it the typical "every gun likes a different load"?

On my '97 the rear brake master is connected near the center of the caliper so I assume it's only using the center piston. My '01 is de-linked and the master has two hoses to the caliper to use all pistons, no clue how it was originally. I guess I could try to find it in the manual, but I'm feeling lazy.

Makes me wanna do a hard front brake test on my 'new' '97 to see what it does. I haven't had much chance to ride it so I haven't really put it through the paces.

I know you're a fan of the LBS, if that detracts from desire no prob. We're still gonna come out and shoot your gun(s) so you ain't getting out of that. And I'll probably bring a couple.

I've never felt that there was too much travel, but each has their own pickiness level. It's not awesome like my 999s was, but not bad feeling at all. I got curious so I compared it to my stock '97 and there's a bit less travel and more firmness once the pressure starts rising, guessing because it has braided hoses. It was already de-linked when I got it. It's possible that whoever did it didn't drill the calipers so not having those extra pistons to actuate is reducing travel compared to one that is.

My '01 is de-linked, has the stock 1/2" master, and works just fine so it's not a requirement to change it.

...if you're not smart enough to use the rear brake.