superhawk996

Don't know. The whole engine came out of CBRbear's whitebird, I think that's his name. HIs bike was super farkled, no idea if he raced it. My previous '97 was clunky on Rotella 15-40, others said they had the same experience with the early Birds and that oil and recommended a change. From recollection that one didn't have much drag to it, just stiction. The clutch actuator was kinda shitty and wouldn't fully disengage when I got the bike so it's possible that the clutch was overheated just from traffic driving and having it drag.

Did you find the pieces? I can't imagine them breaking without some obvious damage, only other explanation would be that they rotted away. Or it had a pretty serious manufacturing flaw.

I think I remember some talk about the early bikes with the 9 plate clutch being a little more picky about oil. Mine has a lot of clutch drag; hard thunk into first, clunky shifts, and nearly impossible to get into neutral. It is definitely clutch drag and not just user error, the bike tries to creep forward when in gear with the clutch lever fully squeezed. I think it has Mobil1 15-50 in it now, or possibly 15-40 diesel oil. While there could be a problem with the clutch or linkage (it has a cable clutch), I'd like to try the oil first. Let me know your experiences/knowledge specifically with the early 9 plate bikes.

It was during break in so it could have been things changing about the machine or your use of it. If you were to switch back and the temp dropped it would indicate that either there's a lot less friction, unlikely, or that dino has better heat dissipation ability which is possible. Syn is supposed to retain its viscosity better as temperature goes up and a thicker oil will run hotter. My bike needs an oil change, I'm gonna try to do a baseline cruising temp test before/after just to see if anything happens, but I don't expect it to.

How the fuck did that happen?!?

The first one Carlos linked doesn't look very stable for rolling around. The second/third which seem to be the same thing at a glance would probably be more secure, but you'll still have the front tire on the ground which could be a plus or minus. The fact that they show two different ones on the same ad doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. Between the two I'd trust the center stand one, but check out the reviews on the other one, it could be easier to maneuver around as long as it's stable.

9k seems reasonable. Most people wanting a work truck probably want a long bed and that one looks short, most non-work truck buyers probably prefer short, so it might appeal to both a bit.

If I were in the market for something like that I would start by looking at a transmission jack and possibly hacking it to serve double duty as the lift and rolling stand.

$350 is ludicrous. Their claim of "it works with any size motorcycle" is retarded. And to be able to use it you'll also need their jack or some other way of getting the bike onto the stand.

They can be adapted to, but yea, it was a joke/stab at the "any phone". I coulda really stepped it up with being tired of cranking this phone

SWEET! I'm so tired of plugging in my 6s.

Craigslist, Facebook marketplace, offer up, ebay, let go, motorcycle trader. Since you're opposed to paypal you greatly reduce the potential buyers that are outside your area.

An open thermostat like Zero supposedly had won't cause boiling. If it's completely stuck at a small opening then it might not flow enough at high RPM/load to cool and cause overheating. A thermostat doesn't fully open at its rated temperature, that's where it starts to open and won't fully open 'till it gets hotter. A lower temp thermostat will lower the operating temp IF there's enough heat exchange happening at the radiator; enough air flow and enough coolant flow. I don't think the bird's hot tempered nature is due to the thermostat limiting coolant flow, it seems to be because of limited air flow through the radiator, and the 'problem' isn't limited to the bird. Mine will run cooler at highway speed than street speed even tho there's more heat being created, this tells me it's probably an airflow issue. If your bike is running 204 all the time something's wrong, if it's only doing that at relatively low speeds or when hot-rodding it's pretty normal. Mine occasionally went over 220 on hot days stuck in traffic, highway cruising it would do 180ish. I don't think there's any way to make a thermostat fully open right at or near the rated temp, and you wouldn't want it to. If it did the temp would constantly be jumping up & down any time there was enough flow through the radiator to dissipate the heat.

33.5 MPG around town doesn't seem like something to worry about.

I rarely see a FPR failure other than leaking into the vacuum hose. You can check this by just pulling the hose off and turning the key on to create pressure. On occasion they'll only leak when hot so if you see nothing cold try it after a ride. When the one on my '01 failed it started out not obvious, just a little bit stumbly here & there and some slow starts, eventually it started running like shit as the FPR got worse.

More expensive than I expected for a HF tool, but they don't look nearly as cheesy as most of their tools.

Beware that some models of Power Commander only work on certain years, from what I've read. I never noticed a flat spot, maybe it's the different air or the way we ride & what we notice.

I'd avoid using the MAP vacuum source, that could fuck with what the sensor sees.

There are two common red locktites, one being heat resistant. Once heated above the magic temperature they do let loose. The biggest issue I see with using heat here is potentially damaging fork/caliper parts, aluminum will quickly transfer the heat from where you want it to where you don't. Using a really hot torch like oxy/acetylene might let you heat the spot quickly enough to get it into the threads. I've never used any of those advertised bolt removers. I've often been able to hammer on a smaller wrench/socket to get a better grip, might be worth a try.

So jokes aside. I had a VW powered sandrail that burned a lot of oil and had low compression. The timing was super retarded for multiple reasons and I speculated that the rings were carbon crusted and stuck so I went for a hail marry cure and dumped mineral spirits down the carb to flush it out. Flooded it out a few times then blew it out and it was cured.

My forklift burns oil about 20:1, maybe worse. I should try the Pinesol so the neighbors think I'm cleaning instead of being reminded that they live next to a redneck.

Eurocar fans love everything from liqui-moly. No clue if it's actually any better than American snake oils. If any Eurocar maker endorses them I'd be more inclined to think they're good. I wonder if European gearheads look to American additives for their American cars.

Interesting. Mid 80's I was at a friend's house and her dad was doing valve cover gaskets on his early/mid 70's chevy pickup with a 350. He was a hard core Pennzoil guy and the top end was a black sludgefest. He liked Pennzoil because it stayed clean, any time he tried something else it turned dark right away. He wouldn't accept that maybe the other brand was removing some of the crust being left behind from his beloved Pennzoil.

As much as I'm generally opposed to additives today, I used one in my '73 Mustang way back and lifter noise at start-up went away, I think it was Slick50. There was an early minivan, I think Mazda MPV, that was known for lifter noise. A buddy used an additive, pretty sure it was Slick50, and it would keep it quiet. In those cases, especially the MPV, there was no way to mistake the effect, the additive was definitely the one keeping them quiet. How it did it I don't know.

So he can't just post another reply on the same thread with the new photos?