superhawk996

Two step is two rev limiters. You can set one for your burnout RPM limit and one for your launch RPM limit...or whatever. The timing retard can be used for nitrous or boost, tho ideally for boost it would be a retard curve instead of a fixed retard. Could also be used on a high compression motor to retard for pump gas for street riding and then take out the retard for full timing advance on race gas. The system also bumps up the spark energy to ensure a good spark with the extra cylinder pressure of boost or nitrous. Ok, just cuz I gotta know.... Price for the ignition? And is it something that has to be cut & spliced in or plug & play?

I'll open the bidding with a 6 pack of Coors Light for the whole shebang. But really, I wish I had a use for it. The Dyna ignition is intriguing, even tho it's probably a waste to run it on a stock bike.

Been a million years, and never done it on the Bird, but as I recall they kinda wiggle out. Put the screw in without the bar end and wiggle/pull. Grip stays. Not sure if this is how they come out, but shouldn't hurt to try if someone doesn't come in with a better way.

Straight up retarded since they've already sold wheels for this bike. Maybe contact them again and remind them that they have indeed sold them, maybe they have the required info locked away somewhere.

It has gone back & forth on running well and barely running. Seemed like every time I tried something it would fix the problem, but only temporarily. I finally found the actual problem, the harness was touching the right exhaust pipe and had worn through the insulation on a wire. It would intermittently short out the ignition and when I fiddled with stuff it would get moved a little and stop the short. I sealed it back up, re-routed, and secured it away from harm. I took a rip down the street and even in 4th gear it'll just spin the tires as it comes onto the power. This thing is retarded, and stupid fun. If it had reverse I might just keep it. If I found an RZ350 cheap enough I'd do a motor swap so I could actually enjoy the power.

They absolutely could make a cush drive that accepts the XX sprocket, but I'm guessing the market is small so it'd be pretty expensive. Being forced to buy a different sprocket to make it work is small $ compared to making a cush to fit the Bird's sprocket. If they made another cush that allows you to keep your sprocket it would probably cost a shit ton more than a sprocket does. If you had a somewhat rare car that is rarely modified you'd probably have to buy an adapter or pay a lot for custom made wheels, this is kinda the same thing.

Humidity often comes up in car/bike conversations and engine heat. While humidity makes a huge impact on what your body feels I don't think it'll change engine temps. Your 95 and an Arizona 95 will feel very different to a person, but about the same to a radiator.

I'd say it's the lack of data about how much it helps and the money combined. If coating was cheap we'd probably have more users and more data. Since the header is so close to the radiator some exhaust heat must be transferring at low speeds, but no clue what the actual impact on coolant temp is. If anyone with a totally stock FI bike wants to do temp comparisons I'm game. From memory my header tubes dropped from around 400F to 300 at idle with the coating. I never thought to check the temp of the radiator before/after. This would be easy to do with an infrared thermometer, don't even have to take anything apart. Header wrap made a pretty big difference in felt heat on my 999. When I gutted the muffler it dropped more. I assume slip-ons would drop the Bird's header temp.

Show up with an AR15 pointed at his head and demand answers. Or just call him and ask what it was that made him suspect it would be needing replacement soon.

Where do you live and what year is your Bird? Edit: and welcome to the nuthouse.

The gauge is showing you the coolant temp at the engine, the fan switch is seeing the coolant temp at the 'cold' side of the radiator. Because of that, seeing temps that don't exactly jive with the fan operation is normal. I'm too lazy to do the exact conversions to Farenheit, but your numbers seem ok. And yes, totally normal to see consistently lower temps cruising the highway vs. slow riding. Mine will cruise at under 190F on the highway and will go over 220F in traffic, they all do unless modified. Some people think they just have to modify it to save it from killing itself, but it won't. Get used to seeing the high numbers and know that it's normal. If you want to see lower city temps add a second fan and/or install a manual switch to run the fan so it doesn't wait for the high temps to hit. You could also install a different temp sensor to do it automatically. Coolant dripping is not normal. It could just be that the mechanic over filled it and it's purging the excess from the coolant overflow bottle, or you have a leak. You'll have to track down where it's coming from to know. Did you replace the radiator because yours was damaged or were you just seeking lower temps? I'd trust an old Honda rad. more than a new China rad, just assuming that "eBay radiator" means it's Chinessium. I've seen some of the fancy all aluminum Chinese radiators cause overheating in cars and a cheap Chinese 'normal' replacement one cured them.

Everyone. For when your phone drops down between the fairing and instrument cluster and have to remove your windscreen on the side of the road to retrieve it.

Then post the part # for it.

I've only run them with rear lift, not lowered front. My current one had a bit too much lift so I lowered it. Lifted rear and lowered front would seem like too much, but I'm sure it varies between bikes/tires/riders.

Damn. I've scored some deals, but not that sweet.

Pics or it didn't happen. How's the tool strap?

Biggest problem I see buying a non-runner like Come Back Kid did is knowing whether it's a small problem or big. Knowing the history from a trusted person is one thing, buying it from a stranger who says 'it ran fine till it got parked' is a big gamble. Got my first XX a few years ago for $1500, '97 with 50k miles. Ran crappy due to carbs WAY outa synch and the registration was expired, otherwise good. My current one was $2k, '01 with 50k, couple little issues and a few good farkles. I've seen a few other ones go cheap. You'll need luck, or to search vigilantly and be ready to pounce.

We first talked about the Banshee well over a year ago, he was gonna have me get it running so he could sell it. It came up a few more times here & there, mostly when he needed $ I think. We both figured it might get around $8k. Then a few months ago we talked about trading it for a nice pickup I was selling, his work truck was on its last legs. Then he got a lump of money and bought a near new Ram diesel, around $40k. Then the tax man came knocking and his wife's car needed some work so the sale/barter of the Banshee got put into actual motion. Can't say I really like working on stuff, but I usually don't mind it. It generally doesn't start weighing on me 'til the work time on something exceeds the fun time from it by a fairly large margin.

Dragged it out to my friend's house who lives next to open riding. About the time I was feeling comfortable with it to start turning up the heat, 10 minutes or so, it started running funny then died. Before that it was pretty spectacular. A little finicky with heavy throttle at low RPM but once it 'came on' it was insanely powerful. I have no idea what the revs were when it was topped out, but it sounded a lot like an RC nitro motor revved out. After about 15 minutes of trying every few minutes it restarted and I headed towards his house, about 2/3 of the way there it died again. Another wait and many kicks later I managed to get to his driveway. Fiddled with it a little and said fuck it. I guessed it was something with the ignition, probably a bad stator. It has an almost new Ricky's in it. When I got home I unplugged the stator to probe it with my ohm meter, not having the specs it seemed ok-ish. I plugged it back in, hoping to run it and get it hot to re-test and it ran perfectly. Apparently it just had a bad connection in the stator plug. Sucks ass that I 'wasted' the trip as far as riding went, but I had fun with my friend so fuck it. It'll be a great toy for someone with big balls and the desire to fly across the desert. I have a customer/buddy with a big construction yard, I'll probably take it there for a run to confirm that it's good to go then post the sale ad.

So it looks like we're all going to fight over not fighting for them. XXti probably rides way more than I do and probably has less shit stored...and probably has a lot less code enforcement breathing down his neck for all his stuff. They go to him, I have to start liquidating the inventory around here.

I hear the first dibs guy isn't out of town. I'm also close enough to Cecome that if he needs it we can figure out fitment.

Funny you say that. He asked if/when he has cash again if he can buy it back. Picked up race gas today, should be burning some of it this weekend.

A replacement already....you don't fuck around!

I believe the spec is 6.1 gallons capacity with about 1 gal. 'reserve'.

Yup. It's super bitchen, but I don't want another vehicle to deal with. If this was Arizona I might plate it and keep it to play with, but I'm not into it enough to haul it somewhere to play with it enough to justify keeping it. I put the dirt tires on and played with it just a tiny bit today, one rip up the driveway and through the backyard. As soon as it got a little above idle it snapped to life and spun tires. Not a challenge to spin knobbies on cement or dirt, but it did it with authority, even in second gear. The PO told me they couldn't get it to idle; carbs are too big, it needs too much fuel, motor's too built.....the usual retarded shit. "Never try to let it idle, if you do it'll stall then take several kicks to re-start, and never expect it to start with less than 3 kicks". I sent him a video of it idling. "How'd you do that"?!? Screwdriver to the idle mix and idle speed screws, just like I expected. Then he came over and asked if he could hear it, he jumped on and kicked it several times & gave up. Standing next to it I held the throttle just off idle and gave it a kick and it lit right up. An hour later I started it again, first kick. I think he was giving it too much throttle, but not sure.