superhawk996

That's about the price range I was guessing they'd offer. Lots of famous people said they'd leave, none did AFAIK. It would be interesting to know how many actually have left because of Trump, and previous presidents, even if the president was only a partial motivator.

I think '01 and up were all the same, not sure. They're less susceptible to corrosion than the '99 & '00, but my '01 fell victim a couple years ago. Generally the FI light will at least flicker when the loom is acting up, sometimes dimly/quickly so it may not be obvious in daylight. When mine first started showing signs hitting the kill switch off-on fixed it so I figured it was the switch contacts, which can also act up. I assume there was a little bit of resistance in the switch adding to the growing resistance of the loom because the problems started coming back quickly, then got real bad. I checked the computer for fault codes and it had a bunch. Knowing that the loom is a common connection to all the sensors I finally cut into it and it was pretty bad. BTW, we're calling it the loom, harness, etc., I think the proper term is 'check connector' or something like that. All of the sensor grounds come together at that connector so when the resistance goes up from corrosion you can get several fault codes. Under the seat near the ECU is a two wire connector, you put a wire in it to connect those to each other and the FI light will flash the fault codes.

Is your FI light coming on, or flickering at all?

Measuring/copying just ain't gonna work. Send me the wheels and I'll engineer some proper spacers. When I get done enjoying the wheels I'll send them back to you with the spacers.

I'll take it, PM on the way.

Yup. I'm still waiting to hear the price on the ignition system, but this other stuff is very interesting.

No reloading press? Vise? Milling machine? Motorcycle lift? Not even a fuckin tool box?!?! I expect to see at least one corner of the man card voluntarily relinquished. But really, that's a pretty bitchen table. I doubt I'd ever even considered making something like that. Nice job.

Wow, that thing is fucked.

If injection started shortly after valve closing, which after a quick googling seems pretty normal, it would allow for about double that 250 degrees of crank rotation time needed; wouldn't it? As far as a good engineering book, I have no idea what to search for; can you suggest a good one?

Split the difference and target 181. And yea, mine might be way the hell off. I do so much by feel that I rarely think about specs. On stuff like this I feel for the part to be bottomed out plus a little bolt/stud stretch. Next time I'm in there I'll try to remember to check them just for kicks.

Yup. I always use my in.lb. wrench for lower torques like this. Tho I've not tested my big ft.lb. clickers, I'd be leery of them at such low settings.

That's exactly what sequential injection means from everything I've read. There's a sequence of events and the events are the injection and valve movement. Tho probably not spraying at open valve, but attached to the timing of the valve opening. Regardless the exact timing, whether it be at open valve or XX degrees before opening, there's one shot per intake stroke. If that's wrong, please explain what you know about it. As for the timing, I'd a assume that shooting it before valve opening, and possibly right after valve closing, would allow the fuel time to vaporize and the engine would run cleaner. Maybe shooting at open valve under heavy load to get a little better cylinder cooling. Just theories, I've never even thought of the timing 'till now. Injection timing is adjustable on two of my cars, would be interesting to play with it.

Haynes is WAY off. '97 factory manual calls for 21nm./15 ft.lb. But the '99-'00 manual calls for 20nm/14ft.lb. like the Haynes. Honda calls them 'exhaust pipe joint nut'. I've always just done them by feel, but if I were gonna use specs I'd use the newer one.

BTW, the fact that diesels run super lean is unknown by MANY people who know about engines. I put my van on a smog test machine just for fun (wanted to see how dirty my waste oil fuel was compared to real diesel fuel) and right away the tech said "this thing is running super lean, you need to fix that". The oxygen percentage of the exhaust indicated a guesstimated 50:1 air/fuel ratio. This guy has been an engine tinkerer for decades and can't wrap his mind around the fact that diesels don't rely on air/fuel ratios.

If Subaru is so retarded that they don't use sequential injection, which I assume everyone does by now, then that could cause damage. For all the others that do use sequential injection, which has been pretty standard since at least the 90's, it shouldn't be a problem. I can't imagine Subaru is that retarded so I'm guessing those kaboomed Subarus weren't stock and had some tuning done that may have fucked with injection timing. Also some 'tuned' turbo cars use an auxiliary injector to supply extra fuel on demand through the air intake, in those cases cutting the port injection would cause a lean condition.

That article is full of retarded shit. The photo is of a guy holding pistons from a Diesel engine, which run super lean all the damn time and generally outlast gas motors. The beginning text is about 2 strokes being extra susceptible to lean mixtures because of the lack of fuel; no. It's because in a 2 stroke running pre-mix the fuel is carrying the only oil the engine gets so a lean mix means a lack of oil. The retardedness continued so I kinda tuned out.

How are the millions of factory turbo cars surviving? I don't see how giving the cylinder no fuel can be damaging, please explain.

I understand the dangers of running lean, there is no danger if running air. No injection, no fuel, not lean.

Once injection is cut no more power is made. You can stand on the throttle in neutral. Cutting fuel is safer in most cases, with no fuel in the cylinder nothing happens but a wasted spark. No spark with fuel injected can cause problems.

The only time I used a two step was in a car, and it was used for burnout and launch. Max RPM was already set by the ECU as it is in a Bird's ECU, tho his may be set up differently. I don't see the need for a burnout limiter, but that's how the guy had the car set up so I followed instructions and drove it. I guess it just takes some of the thinking out of the whole thing making it easier to be consistent. He was bracket racing so consistency is key. Hold the line lock & burnout limiter button, pin the throttle for three seconds then roll out of it. Hold the line lock and launch limiter button then release both buttons and the clutch at go time. That experience is one of those few that sticks with me. Side stepping the clutch at 5,000 RPM on sticky tires and doing a wheelie in a full body 95 Cobra R was spectacular. It was like being rear ended, but fun.

I have a Dyna on the Banshee and while I don't know what a stock spark looks like on them, the spark on mine is fairly impressive at slow hand pushing the kick starter speeds.

Two step is two rev limiters. You can set one for your burnout RPM limit and one for your launch RPM limit...or whatever. The timing retard can be used for nitrous or boost, tho ideally for boost it would be a retard curve instead of a fixed retard. Could also be used on a high compression motor to retard for pump gas for street riding and then take out the retard for full timing advance on race gas. The system also bumps up the spark energy to ensure a good spark with the extra cylinder pressure of boost or nitrous. Ok, just cuz I gotta know.... Price for the ignition? And is it something that has to be cut & spliced in or plug & play?

I'll open the bidding with a 6 pack of Coors Light for the whole shebang. But really, I wish I had a use for it. The Dyna ignition is intriguing, even tho it's probably a waste to run it on a stock bike.

Been a million years, and never done it on the Bird, but as I recall they kinda wiggle out. Put the screw in without the bar end and wiggle/pull. Grip stays. Not sure if this is how they come out, but shouldn't hurt to try if someone doesn't come in with a better way.

Straight up retarded since they've already sold wheels for this bike. Maybe contact them again and remind them that they have indeed sold them, maybe they have the required info locked away somewhere.