superhawk996

No clue. Some people love them, some hate them. Most of what I've read was positive, but on one thread it was around 90% negative; noisy, slippy, fast stretching, made their kids turn gay, etc. The grip area is much smaller and some say that they need much more tension to not slip, others say that they grip as well or better than normal belts. Lots of people say they're not good with high power applications, but there's probably a guy happily running them in his twin turbo 1953 combine that would disagree. I haven't put my band saw to use since installing it, I'll try to remember to test it later and see what I think of the grip. The wood chipper- are they wearing out or is shit getting onto them and damaging them?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y8SRV21?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I haven't driven anything else since she left.

Another option to HF is Amazon. They have the green Accu-link like HF does and some red ones. I have no idea if there's a quality difference, but buying 10' of the red on Amazon was cheaper. And from what I saw, HF only carries a bigger size than I needed, I think it's 1/2" and I needed 3/8". The lathe would actually do better with one a bit narrower and if it looks like it'll be a problem I'll try to shave it.

Carlos probably posted about them when he made the switch, but nobody should trust a fucking EV fan so now the gearhead is chiming in. Amazing how smoothly a cheap HF band saw runs when you eliminate the normal V-belt. I've been thinking about buying it for the band saw and drill press for a long time but kept putting it off. The lathe needs new belts and using normal belts requires some disassembly that I don't want to do so I finally splurged, $60 for 10 feet which will do all three machines with some left over. In fairness, the belt on the band saw was way over due so it had a crazy amount of vibration, but I'm 90% sure it didn't run this smoothly when it was new. I think it added a whir, like a fan type noise, but maybe it's just that I couldn't hear the motor and bearing noises before because the v belt was so shitty. Did I mention how much I'm liking that I get to drive the EV every day while Ashley's in Germany?

Was it stopping at the same place from both sides or when it hit the third 90 each time? Romex in conduit is frowned upon by some but it doesn't violate code as long as the "pipe fill" isn't exceeded. I don't know the pipe fill calculations, but I do know that the limit is lower for romex compared to loose wires. If you change it out pull a tape or rope out with it so you'll have a puller in place, preferably two. Pushing through 3 90s will be nearly impossible, pulling them will probably be somewhat hard. If you have a person to push while you pull it'll get easier. My electrician friend tries to limit the total bends from exceeding 180 degrees per run, 270 is his absolute limit. As I was telling him your woes about pushing he said the same thing Carlos said about sucking or blowing a puller through.

It's sorta done. The lathe itself is done and I did a test run powering it with a drill just so I could enjoy seeing it cut. The motor drives a pulley thing which then drives the lathe, normally they would all be mounted to a bench, but I haven't decided where I want to mount the lathe yet. I might join the three with a metal plate so that it can be moved around as a unit and set on a bench wherever instead of dedicating it to a place. This is the 'pulley thing' that needs to be mounted behind the headstock.

The carriage is almost done. The knob is missing from one of the handwheels, but I might have another one. So far things move smoothly.

oops

Do you know that it's being killed by surge, or just assuming?

I've been trying to find an aluminum safe cleaner, gonna get some. Hopefully it's at least as strong as normal SG, would be great if it's strong enough to replace SuperClean.

A few of the answers I saw when researching: Any oil, it doesn't matter. 5-30 mixed with STP. Chainsaw bar oil. Straight 30wt., picker guys specify non-detergent 30wt. 3-in-1 oil. WD40. Hydraulic oil. Zebra cum didn't make the list, I guess I was looking on PC forums. When researching lube for the chuck it was even more crazy. I got the above, plus: Wheel bearing grease, some specified moly fortified grease. Any spray dry lube. Moly-disulfide paste. Moly-d spray. Nothing, run it dry. Graphite powder. Bacon grease didn't make the list, maybe they were vegan machinists. Probably the kind of fags that drive Smart cars. Shit, the only person that I know that has machining tools is Mikesail, who I've consulted on some stuff, and who sold me my first Smart car. Helluva coincidence.

Many say that the detergents, and maybe other additives, in modern motor oil are bad for machinery and oils should be plain non-detergent types. "Modern motor oil" being anything we've been using for about the last 100 years. The carriage parts are mostly ready, just need to do a little final cleaning on the ways, then it's assembly time. Hoping I remember where everything goes, and that I haven't lost anything in the process.

I bought it for the mill, and it was a hard decision because the shit's around $70/gallon and I couldn't find any vendors that sell smaller containers. I happened to be buying customer parts at a place that had it and decided fuck it, the mill was essentially free, do the 'right' thing for it. Being that the squirter lives on the mill I wind up using it as cutting oil and other shit. When researching oils for the machines I thought it would be somewhat easy, but everyone has their opinion and personal recipes they say works perfectly. From "way lube is the only thing to use" to "that's just overpriced crap that only retards buy." Once you decide to use way oil, then you get into opinions on brands and weights...fuck. I bought ISO68 (aka 20wt.) which seems to be the go-to, and since I have a gallon I don't mind being generous with it.

Cutting tools- I just remembered that I have a fuck ton of carbide inserts, just need the right holder. Theres a few different types so maybe a few holders if I wanted to be able to use them all.

The stripped carriage. Straight from the phone because I ran out of patience.

It came with a couple. I assume they're cheap but I haven't priced them. I have a bunch of lathe bits, but they're all "normal" sized and wont fit in this micro tool holder.

Thanks. I did see that and cosidered it, but I'm mostly decided on just make it proper and ignore making it pretty. Tho not 100% decided.

Photos are fixed. .heic isn't the problem, it happened because I edited them, just rotation. Apparently I was impatient, I guess they take a while to re-develop after rotation. Details: I photograph with my iphone 12 mini, they magically icloud themselves to the computer, I post from the computer, and drag/drop them onto the post. I tested with a few, editing is what makes them not work. Sometime between a few minutes and about an hour they became ready to drop. Here's the chucks. I started with Superclean to degrease, then soaked it in Evaporust for about a day, then a fine wire wheel to shine it up some. After way too much reading about what to lube it with, it's just like asking "what oil should I run in my car", I used way oil and reassembled it. I would barely move before, now it's smooth and easy. And the other photo that wouldn't work. The tool holder slidey thing was the first to be stripped and reassembled. They used decent chrome, most of it cleaned up perfectly. Actually most of the metals and the overall construction seem pretty good for a toy sized lathe. The gears are some weird alloy of aluminum, zinc,+something I can't remember and said to be easy to chip/break, but apparently wear well as long as they're lubed. The carriage is stripped and I'll probably work on that tomorrow. Removing the remaining handle would be somewhat destructive, the shaft is pushed through it and smashed over so those parts will stay through the cleaning. I was going to insert the photo, but it's stuck at the one hour photo place being developed. And I've now learned that it's not an edit problem. Whether edited or recently taken, they need some time to become drag/droppable.

The one in the background was given to me by a friend about 35 years ago. It was in poor shape, my dad took it to work and restored it. Luckily it was a union job, they pay you to do side stuff and supply all the necessary tools and supplies. It looked like new, unfortunately it was missing some parts, never got put to use, then collected 3 decades of rust. In the forground is one Randy (house mate) gave me a couple weeks ago. I wish I'd taken photos before starting on it, it was in pretty nasty condition. At first I was going to use it to restore the first one, then decided to just work on the 'new' one. I kinda want to fully restore it and paint it, but I'll probably just do a mechanical restoration so that it works properly. At one point I decided that if I could get hammertone green spray paint so it would match the mill I'd do it, but it doesn't appear to be available without spending close to $100/can...nope. Both chucks were in the same condition. I don't know why the photo won't show, fucking computers, maybe it will if you click on it. 3785A836-A254-4FD7-9811-C12E5D7816C4_1_201_a.heic One part done, lots more to go. 2A9EB27A-7699-4611-A02C-F19B5846C0B1_1_201_a.heic

Somewhere I read that the Smart's usable capacity is 16.4, that's the number in my head but don't remember if it's correct. I don't know if the car is capping off the top or bottom of the battery, maybe both. I've read that it'll only charge to around 96% according to a guy that was doing some tests. There are no manufacturer stated specs about stuff like that and the owner's manual reads like a Chinese product manual, including some lies.

It could at least fire up the grip heaters, fuckin POS.

Well shit, you can buy EV range extenders on Ali Express, unfortunately they're all for lower voltage cars using 12v batteries, the highest goes to 96v. There is one that goes to 400v, but it's huge and over $7k, designed for a series hybrid system.

Nope. If it's plugged in the car won't start, if the key is on then plug in it won't charge. I've thought about trying that. I assume that the on-board charger won't turn on, but maybe. I assume it couldn't be damaged by trying, but ? One range extender thought was a DC generator connected to the battery. I have one with variable voltage output that maxes out around 140v....more RPM perhaps? My next thought was something mechanical, more my style. Buy a cheap wrecked scooter, chop the front off, and connect it to the car with an articulating hitch so it'll work as a pusher. That lead to a cleaner thought, install a sprocket or pulley on an axle and have an engine drive it that way.

I would love this for the Smart. I'm sure it can be done, but don't know how. I've conjured up a couple possible redneck solutions but since Ashley always has it I haven't tinkered. We had a cluster fuck of a problem with it Saturday. Went to a party knowing we'd have to charge near the venue. Got to the closest charger on 1%, all the working ones were in use. Went to the next, same. We eventually found one in the back lot of some business center, nothing to do, sit there and wait. We got enough in to limp to another place that had stuff we could do, bad directions in the charging app got us to the right place on 1%, I think it was at 0 by the time we found an open charger. On the upside, it was free.