GriffXX

3 minutes huh? Is that all you got? I have the same tool as your link and it works well. I think I got a better price from White Buffalo or Knee Draggers. If there was only $30 difference like the boys above have posted, I would have picked up the bigger one myself. After all, Bigger is Better! The only thing I have learned about those tools is NOT to use them to pop out the rivet link until AFTER you have used a Dremel to first grind off the head.

Just adding to the above. Good folks. You can always tell when you are talking to someone who actually knows something about motorcycles. The guy who helped me did. Unfortunately not all retailers have 'motorcycle people' answer the phone. These guys are high on my retailers list.

Resurrecting an old thread here. I want to add a Voltmeter to the Bird. I have to believe it will potentially help prevent me from having some bad surprises on one of the Bird’s weaker systems, the electrical system. Is the Datel DVM still an easy, simple the way top go? Any certain model number? Can a “Ten Thumbed Knucklefuck” like me hook it up? Wired direct to? Line run through where? Anybody have any pics? As always, I appreciate your help in preventing me from doing something stupid with my Bird.

I thought that was N1k !!!

That is great to know as we just bought a GL1800 a few months ago. Sure makes it easy when I need filters and pads!

I think you may have your recommendations a little mixed. I have the Galfer Greens. I think they are good if, and only if, you thoroughly clean your rotors prior to installing the Greens. The Greens are Organic / Kevlar, thus all of the metallic dust from the old OEM's or others pads need to be off the rotors first. A lot of folks hate the Greens. I would use them again, but if I ever go back to a metallic or semi-, I wouldn't ever go through the conversion hassle again to go back to Green. That said, I think they (Greens) are totally crap in the rain. Since they aren't metallic, they turn to MUSH when wet.

Beat me to it. This is the first of Turk's threads I have seen, but I offer a heartfelt welcum :icon_love: to the group. Need full pic, preferably without clothes. Oh, and what they said as to the bad cylinder.

How great of a deal? I'm not aware of any problems, but I am far from being a knowledge source on the Bird's mechanicals. Buy Joel's Bird, and ride it cross country if you need to! I think you'll find the members around here take excellent care of their bikes, and thus would be solid buys.

Breaker bar. I had mine so tight once (I must have been thinking of N1K's torque values that day) that I thought I was going to have to cut the axel nut off. Off to lowes, purchase a Breaker Bar, and boom, no problem. Now I use it all the time. It makes the job very easy.

Yes Brett. I put them on bke and am very pleased. Cost was reasonable and the difference noticeable. I'm of the mindset that Honda won't replace the Bird, the only other bike that seems logical as a replacement is Butt Fucking Ugly (ZX-14), and so the Bird will be run until it can't run any longer. The rubber hoses on my 7 year old bike aren't as tight as they used to be, so I think the Galfers make sense. I didn't replace the rear as I didn't feel the need, but I probaly will do it if I still have the XX in a few years.

Bad link. But yes. Do the Fronts and the Clutch.

So YOU"RE THE ONE who gave N1K advice on changing oil and telling how much torque is 'about right' last year! :icon_clap:

...But I don't want you anywhere near me at the R4K!

I wouldn't be so sure. It's Dave, wearing his Lucifer Ears, at a charity Ride 4 Kids event. I'm thinking he's planning on some evil! The WV ride should be great. It better be, as I'm already getting pressure from the wife for a riding weekend over Memorial Day weekend. Whil ein WV, maybe you can take those airhorns, sneek up on some Hardley-Ableson boys heading up to Rolling Thunder, and scare the shit out of them.

(voice inside head) Leave it alone, Doug. You like Dave......! I think you could have handles those. In fact, someone (probably Warchild) has them installed. Do a search. Those only draw in a quick burst. They CAN be done. Someone post up as I know they have been done around here. As for the R4K, stick around me and Mrs. GriffXX this year. We'll be on the 'Wing, and I tell you what, that thing has a horn. It sounds like a damn truck compared to the little squeek that most sportbikes have.

Yep.

I don't know which is 'better' as I have only owned the Galfer. I only did the fronts and clutch. Figured I wouldn't notice if I did the rear. Fit is good. Easy to install. Reasonably priced, especially if you go to cyclebrakes.com and get the XX Forum discount.

Time to bump these folks up. There are now some other vendors whose prices are as good, if not a little better, than newenough.com, but I just flat-out like dealing with them. Good people. A real person actually sends you an email note confirming your order. Shipping charges aren’t the “we’ll give you a good price on the jacket, but RAPE you on the shipping charges” you find at some online retailers. I think the shipping charges for a leather jacket, a mesh jacket, some extra armor and a pair of gloves was like $13. You still get to make a contribution to THIS forum. Hopefully Swampy or Jason get the cash for more PORN!. Thumbs way up for NewEnough.

Any time. But understand that if you take it to a Stealer for service, they may tell you that by using a zip-tie, you are riding a totally dangerous, unrideable bike and are taking your life in your own hands (and endangering others) by not INVESTING the money on a genuine Honda part. So basically you are a reckless hoodlum with no respect for human life. Bastard. I once had a Stealer tell me that. Same Stealer who put a new rear tire on my big, heavy Honda Valkyrie Tourer, take it for a test ride, puncture said tire on test ride, plug it, and not tell anyone (including me), and deliver it back to me. But I’m reckless for using a Zip-Tie on the 'Bird. I hate Stealers.

Push Pin..... I hate those things. Black Zip Tie???? I've used them on more than one occasion instead of a push-pin. Especially the underside where the L and R lower connect.

I'll do both sets of front at the same time, but I'm certainly not tied in to doing both front and rear at the same time. When one set is bad, I definately check the other sets to make sure they are all OK, but that's just to make sure I order all I need at one time. It's quick and easy, so I don't have the "while I'm at it, I might as well..." mindset.

I think it’s a much easier job with two people, but if I can do it solo, anyone can. I guess I’m lazy, but I don’t completely drain. I stop pumping just before air gets in to the lines, then refill. Repeat as often as necessary. It’s easy to tell the old fluid from the new fluid is it gets pumped out. I’ll probably get flamed for doing it this way, but I figure the DIY maintenance person performs maintenance much more frequently that the guy who takes their bike to the shop, so the fluids never get that tired. For example my motor gets fresh oil MUCH fore frequently now than it did when I thought I had to drag it to the shop. Do a search: lots of good advice on this around here. DON"T SPILL ANY.

WD40 Or Mobile 1

Take them to NeXXt and add them to the bonfire. Titty spent too much time looking for things to burn. By then, we'll be too drunk to notice the smell!

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