scottw

I had the same "shuddering" problem untill I went to EBC-HH pads. Problem solved. Rotors have a max runout spec. (.012" I believe) Check your shop manual. If they are out of spec. I see no reason for them NOT to be replaced under extended warrenty. Pads, no, they are considered a wear item and are probably excluded. Read you warrenty covereage.

Some people have had success straightenibg bent rotors. You need to get the wheel off the ground to let the wheel rotate. Then find the low/high spot with a dial indicator. "Tweak" the low spot out useing a adjustable wrench, going slowly and checking the runout. A lot cheaper than new rotors and you never know if a used rotor is in spec or not. The manual specifies a max runout of .012 in.

My 97 Vmax came from the factory with this type. Haven't touched them in 10 years and see no reason to. Makes checking TP a breeze.

No, I haven't............................but I'd be more worried where the missing blades went !!!!!!!!!!! Were the remaining blades rusty or damaged??

I have a 99 VFR (Fuel Injected) and changed my FF @ 130,000 miles just because I felt guilty. As stated, there is no scheduled maintenace interval, just a minimum fuel flow test. The old filter was not contaminated at all. Probably could have left it in there. I'm sure Honda didn't design a special FF just for thier injection systems. I'm sure it from some application in thier auto line also. Just have to do the research.

I've dealt with Gary for many parts, both OEM and aftermarket. He's now the GM and Matt is the parts contact. They have new owners that have big plans for the dealership and they are commited to maintaining the personal quality service they have always provided. Good people

I'd suggest a pair of Oxtor Matrixx GT. Goretex lined and 100% waterproof. Mine are 3 1/2 years old and I wear them almost every day. Very comfortable and look good even with close to 100,000 miles on them I bought mine from www.newenough.com

I have to disagree on this. The mating surgaces should be clean and dry and the new gasket installed without sealer. If you must use sealer, just use a very thin film as excess will squeeze to the outside and the inside. The excess from the inside will break off and collect on the oil pump intake screen. Cause a problem???..............Probably not, but why risk it.

What Product, no atachment.I have D&D Slip ons also. Go to silentsport.com and read about it. As for repacking the D&D carbon cans I have it is only a matter of drilling out the rivets to get at the guts. I sent a note to D&D and asked about a quiet kit and this is what they sent me: "We do have a quiet street pack that is available for the muffler. If you have the know how you could do it yourself or send them to us and we can repack them. the packing materials costs $53.00 Per can .Install costs $35.00 Per Can. + shipping both ways." I suspect just repacking the kit like you would any slip-on after drilling out the rivets would work. I may give it a try. JCW sells repacking for slipons cheap, cheap. Mike Don't bother with the fiberglass from JCW. It's cheap but it don't last. What you need is ceramic wool. Resists temps and lasts. Check the TBR site.....thier stuff is good. Don't know if it's sized right for the D&D though. Last time I checked it's 1/2 the price of the D&D repack. McMaster-Carr used to sell it also. But I think it was in rather large quantities. You'll have to do a little research......but save your money on the JCW stuff.

I do the same thing. I save the thickest pads and replace the tinest with them. Nothing wrong with being frugal. (Spelled: CHEAP) No performance degregation noted.

A fried of mine just put a set on his Hyabusa. Very happy with the handling, only 3000 miles so far, but seem to be wearing well.

No problems with my 99 FI. Normaly runs 1/4 up the guage. Slow speed or stopping causes the temp to rise almost to the red. Fan comes on.......cools down. No problem. With a 16 lb cap and a 50/50 coolant mixture boiling won't occur until 262 F. Look for a defective cap if it's boiling over under that. Sometimes some debris gets under the seal and then won't let the system pressurize. Then the coolant will boil before the fan comes on.

Oil bath trailer hubs are standard on most over the road trailers. Long life and low maintenance. You have to have proper seals or the oil will leak out. Bad newa. Seems like overkill. I I'ved used "Bearing Buddies" for years and thounsands of miles with no problems. Fill them up with a grease gun and go. Use the plastic caps or you'll get a little "Fling" and get the wheels dirty. Check once a years for bearing looseness.

I can attest to the performance of the Dexcool specification (No silicates, no phosphates.) 163,000 on my 99 VFR and 132,000 on my 97 Vmax. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water. No overheating problems, original water pumps on both. Change evry three years. Just installed it in the bird and only have 7000 miles on it, but I expect the same performance.

A voltmeter is the only way to tell if your system has enough charging capacity to keep everything fired up w/o draining the battery. All PGMFI model (1999 on) have the larger alternator, ut they also have more electrical consumption, fuel pump/injectors. Even if you only rig a temporary voltmeter. Even if you get to 13.0-13.2 volts you can stay ahead of the load, but it will take a lot longer the recharge a discharged battery. I picked up 0.4 VDC charging voltage, just by cleaning the connections on the R/R and giving all the connections a good coating of dielectric sillicone.

As a part of routine maintenace, yesterday I pulled the R/R, cleaned all the plug-ins and gave them a liberal coating of dielectric silicone grease. Picked up over 0.40 VDC charging voltage at the battery..............!4.0 before, 14.43 after. Both @ 1500 RPM, high beam on, no cooling fan on. 99 with 48,000 miles

Clutches kind of go away gradually. Try a fourth gear acceleration from 3500 RPM, like a dyno run. If you don't get any slip. you should be good to go. I've got 48,000 and the clutch is fine. Try and match downshift engine speed to road speed with a little "blip" of the throttle, but just letting the clutch out will work also, just don't do it at such a high speed that you lock the rear wheel. As previously posted, if you really want to check the clutch plates, just replace them and the springs All total, removing the fairings and all, it shouldn't be over a hour. Just make sure you dip the discs in oil before the install and check the steels for warppage.

TBR packing seems to last forever> I have 60,000 miles on my Vmax C-4 CF and 151,000 on my VFR C-4 with a aluminum case and never repacked. I check them occasionaly by starting up the bike and looking for any premature hot spots in the muffler as it warms up. That indicates voids in the packing. No big deal with the aluminum case, but the CF will burn through if it has a a void and gets to hot.

Scott, I've always heard Shell Rotella was good oil and that the Porsche factory at one time preferred Rotella in their earlier (air-cooled) Porsches but I don't know what they recommend now. I've always thought about using Rotella in my '00 XX but never knew anyone else who used it in a bike. I like the fact that it's relatively inexpensive and you can buy it anywhere. I've always used Honda HP4 semi synthetic (without moly) in my XX (and previously in my old 95 VFR) and never had a problem, but the stuff is EXPENSIVE. I don't know if I'm paying more because it's Honda oil, or if it's truely better. If Rotella is good enough for Porsches it should be good enough for the XX. Also, is the Rotella "T" different in some way than the regular Rotella? Any additional comments you could make would be apprecuated. Thanks. The only Rotella oils I've come across are straight 30W, 15W-40 and 5W-40 synthetic. My personal opinion is that synthetics are not necessary for street riding. Have you ever heard of someone wearing out a Honda engine regardless of the oil used???? I use the 15W-40 in all my engines: three bikes, my Grand National and the lawnmower.

You can also buy Rotella T 15W-40 in five gallon pails from Tractor Supply, but it actually costs more/gallon that buying five singles. Go fiqure...................I guessa five gallon pail is more expensive that five 1 gallon jugs.

Brakes and tires.................the two most important items in safe riding. I keep a spare set of tires and brake pads in the garage at all times. My VFR and XX use the same size tires and the same pads. Saves on inventory costs.

With lower sulfur content in the fuel, that will lower the acidic contamination of the lubricating oil. I've used Rotella T in my 99 VFR (163,000 miles) and now in my 99 XX. Be intresting to see what changes are made to meet the new requirements. But my opinion is that any oil that will allow a 400 HP engine to run at almost full throttle it's full life (500,000 miles) certainly is suitable for a 71 CI gasoline engine in a motorcycle.

That is really low, unless you ride it hard all the time. How does the plugs look??? Are the tailpipes really sooty?? How about pulling the Dynojet kit out and see what happens. I've pulled 230 miles out of a tank and still had 0.8 gal left on my 99 (PGMFI)