demon

If you look at most race bikes, they have cable clutches. Hydraulic clutches lack the "feel" of normal cable clutches. The main reason for using a hydraulic clutch is for the lack of rider adjustment. A cable clutch has to be adjusted to account for wear of the plates. The hydraulic clutch takes up this slack with no need for adjustment.

As in any bike trans, you probably can't shift with any power on the trans gears. You must let off the gas and relieve the stress on the gears for a split second. Works from first through sixth for me.

Peter, the Pirelli Diablo Stradas are a good tire. They stick real good and give great mileage. I haven't run a set, but know a couple people that have them. TL Streak, at SEXXT on the Suzuki TL 1000, runs them and says that for a "touring tire" the stick is great and the mileage is good too.

Not really, as you're raising the rear by an inch and you'll lower the centerstand by 1/4". The whole rear of the bike gets raised up by shimming and you will still actually gain clearance if you only lower the centerstand enough to clear the chain.

Helvet, you should make that your sig instead of the food for thought thing.

Think the carbon fiber ones come from england and are made by ART.

It's normal if you've raised up the rear of the bike. A lot of people will put something other than the stock rubber thingy to space the centerstand down a little bit. A rubber vacuum hose cap works wonders on a bolt when you get the right length bolt.

The trouble with the wiring loom is where the factory test connector is. It's only used to test the wiring at the factory and isn't used after it leaves Honda. It's wrapped up in electrical tape on the left side of the bike under the tailsection at the very front where it meets the frame. Some people have had this connector corrode and it messes up your ground circuit. I think on the BIRD site from England they have a sticky on this subject with pics and the fix.

http://www.efrracing.com/ I spoke with Elton about the clutch conversion and a lockup clutch a couple years ago, and a turbo if you really want to know. By far the best bang for the buck is the cable conversion for launching the bird. The stock clutch will handle the power until you start adding big shots of nitrous or a turbo.

From what I've heard about these, you have to cut your stock header to mount it on the bike.

The ART units are top notch. I've seen a couple on R6's and the quality and fit are great.

Thanks Tim. That's just what I needed. I have "misplaced" my hand allens and only have the sockets that are too short in my posession. I'll go to the parts store tomorrow and source up the needed tool.

What's the lower damping rod bolt size (the one over the top of the front wheel axle for the damping rod inside the fork)? My metric allen wrenches won't reach in deep enough and need to buy a longer one??????

My wife thinks I'm a dumbass :oops:

If you didn't lower the front any, that thing must handle like a truck

I like mine steep. I've got the front dropped about 7mm and the rear raised up. I don't know the exact amount I've raised the rear because of my adjustable linkage, but the rear tire is touching when it's on the centerstand even with the front dropped. Handles like a much lighter bike. I weigh 230 lbs. before gear, have the 1.0 Wilbers front fork springs and run 5 weight oil, and the Wilbers 641 rear shock (like Redbird, I don't know the spring rate). I still have to mess with my sag since the spring swap but usually like my sag at about 30mm.

Sounds like the CCT, but when mine went out it didn't give off any vibration or anything. Just noise and not vibration. Check out your chain for tight spots and your sprockets for worn teeth or even missing teeth.

On average, when the low fuel light comes on with mine, I'll put right at 5 gallons in her. A tank might hold a certain amount of fuel, but like Tim said, you'll be walking if you try to suck the tank dry. The fuel pump pickup has to have some clearance from the bottom of the tank so as not to pick up trash and allow a smooth unrestricted flow of fuel into it.

You won't toast a motor by adding too much oil. Was it smoking a lot? 4 ounces to a gallon seems about right if I remember correctly. Was the bike not run for a long time? I've had dirt bikes that I've bought over the years that would run fine for a few days and then just not run right. The reed valves were weak from sitting too long and a couple days of riding would stress them and they would break causing a poor running condition.

It'll work on your bird, but like K9 said, your power delivery will be a bit different. I ran an Akrapovic full system on my bike and the primary header pipes were situated like the 97-98 carbed headers. It had a definate hit and 7K where as the stock FI header is smoother in the midrange.

For some reason, the carbed bikes get better mileage on average than the injected ones do. Guess there is a trade off for the ram air.

My light usually comes on at 160 as well. I've gotten 180 out of her before on on a few occasions, but 160 is the norm for me. I don't usually put in over 5 gallons when the light first pops on and I don't do a lot of long distance highway riding. I do the short blasts up in the hills which I attribute to my reduced mileage 8)

I agree. Looks a lot like the purdy black round can that Erion uses. Good pipe.

From what I hear, yes. The changes to the wheels was on the front from 97/98 to 99/up. The rears are the same.

My springs will be here on Tuesday. I'm going with 5 weight oil instead of the 2.5 recommended. Gonna put my gap at 140mm instead of 150.