demon

3/4" is safe and there's a lot of birds running this height with no problems what so ever.

I wanted the MIGS for mine, but they only come in the used variety any more and a rareity at that. I got a set of the Blueflame slipons in stainless with the dual tips and removeable plugs and baffles. So far I like them. Lifetime guarantee on them as well. Deep throaty sound that doesn't get raspy or harsh. With the baffles and plugs in, they are a little louder than the stockers but not as loud as most slipons. With the plugs and baffles out they get a lot louder, but not D&D loud, with that deep tone.

I'm runnin Galfer Greens. Good pad in the dry, but suck major ass when wet. EBC HH will be next to go on.

Josh, you know better than that. A Hoosier can't give a good cornholeing like a redneck can. Ask Ned Beaty.

I'm like Nik, the early stock screen looks best on the bird to me. It flows with the lines of the bike and looks sleek, plus you don't have that gold tint to it at the bottom, just black.

I think it's two bros. that make the centerstand stop. It fits on your left side centerstand mounting bolt and holds the stand down off the chain. Call them and tell them you have one of their full systems and need the bracket for the centerstand.

Helvet has some experience with these. Check the link in the link. http://cbr.geckobox.net/forum/viewtopic.ph...highlight=vario

Just look into my eyes. 8)

Mykl wrote: I'm in the same boat as you. I love my 45/46's and are the best sport touring tires out right now IMHO. When mine hits the road this fall, she'll be shod with the sticker Avons, preferrably the Vipers but the 49/50 if the Vipers aren't yet available in the states.

I use the Roadgear gauge as well. The angle of the tip fits the wheels really good. Fits nicely under the seat with the toolkit too.

The only gas that will boost performance is the oxygenated race fuel like Ultimate 4. It's expensive and if your motor isn't set up for it it could make it run lean because of the extra oxygen molecule in the fuel. A friend of mine used to run it in his bird and got like 8 more horsepower out of the Ultimate 4, but his PC 3 was professionally set up to run it. He now runs 116 octane race fuel because he's spraying a wet shot of nitrous. Normal pump gas from 87 to 93 octane won't show a difference in performance in a stock motor like Northman said. If you've got some mods like the advanced ignition or increased compression, you'll need the extra octane but if not, you're just spending extra money you don't need to.

You might, I run 87 octane all the time and haven't noticed any performance differences between the low and high octane gas.

My bad, Ducshop http://www.ducshop.com/index.jsp From what I hear, they do the best tune job in the southeast.

Talked to Brian today, the other guy with the 02 set up for dragging, and he got his tuned at a Ducati place in Atlanta. Ductune or something like that. I can get the number if you'd like. Good service and a good price for a complete tune on the dyno. The guy doesn't use the dynojet software that tunes the PC, but tunes it himself and gets better results.

I like all 6 gears. I run a 16/46 on mine. Really like it.

What that does is adjust your rebound damping only. If I were doing 2 up, I'd set it softer for better rebound speed since you are compressing the shock more with weight. If it's too "stiff" or slow rebounding, you might pack up the shock, or to say it differently, compress your suspension and not let it rebound enough before the next bump.

You been playing in my back yard again haven't you Zee. That's the top secret top speed testing facility that's a secret to the people that don't know the handshake.

Mine don't click either. You can only turn it so far either way. I've got mine set about halfway out from full in. I played with mine when I first got it and settled on a setting that gives me better traction coming out of corners rather than comfort.

Usually just adding a pipe won't change the fuel mileage much at all. When you start messing with the power commander and add fuel to it, your mileage will decrease. There are a couple people on the board that have tuned their power commander for mileage rather than power. In most maps you get, the power commander is set up for an increase in power and driveability rather than mileage.

When I had my Akra on, I didn't have a PC and still don't. It ran fine without a power commander on it. It probably would have run better with one, but it won't hurt anything without it.

Friend of mine with an 02 has a custom made map, but it's for drag racing and doesn't really do much for the lower half of the RPM. He had it tuned on oxygenated race fuel as well. :wink:

Me either Chris. I've worked on cars all my life professionally and as a hobby and this just doesn't make any since to me. Usually speaking, as a result of RPM, the higher the RPM the more power potential is available. Horsepower is a result of torque and RPM. You don't have to open the throttle at a higher RPM to get the same amount of power at a lower RPM. The potential for more power is there but not needed, thus a throttle to limit the amount of air/fuel in. Do you ever wonder why a truck that's set up for pulling heavy loads is geared lower? It puts the engine in a better RPM for torque output and is more efficient with it's power output. The same load that a lower geared truck (4.11) pulls with ease is harder on a high geared truck (2.73) due to lower RPM and more throttle opening resulting in less efficiency and ultimately less mileage. Now talking about carbs, the lower the intake vacuum, the less efficient the carbs will work at a low RPM. Carbs don't work off of vacuum, they work off of air velocity which is a result of the difference in ambient air pressure and engine vacuum. You ever tried a carb on a car that's too big and it performs like shit? The air velocity is what pulls the fuel out of the bowls through the venturi, not vacuum. The throttle plates are below where all the fuel is introduced to the air stream. The bigger difference in vacuum and outside air pressure increases air velocity through the carb. On modern carbed motorcycles, the carbs are of the constant velocity type. A slide in the carb varies the opening as the engine needs more air. When vacuum from the intake air velocity is applied to this slide, the slide opens to keep things in check. Yada Yada Yada. Basically I agree with Northman on this one.

You ought to get 5-6K out of the rear without much problem.

I run mine strapped on the street when I feel scrappy. Nothing like pulling up beside someone in town doing about 25, revving it up, dropping the clutch, and smoking the hell out of the rear tire. :twisted: Rides like shit with the front strapped, but you got to pay to play. You can get it really low if you hit your brakes while rolling and yanking the strap. The front end looks really evil with the tire up in the fairing.

From what I understand, the pipes will bolt up. If you can use a 97-98 on the 99-up and it will bolt up why won't the opposite work? The power characteristics might change a bit on you though. With the primary groupings changed, the powerband will be changed as well. The big "hit" you see at 7K will probably be reduced and a smoother transition from low to high revs will be felt with a slight increase in mid range torque.