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The Bank Angle Sensor would have just killed the ignition just like turning off the engine cutoff switch. The bike would have just died.

I swear that I can hear the fork springs banging against the insides of the fork tubes occasionally. Of course... I also hear strange voices inside of my head every now and then too.

A number of years ago, a Metzeler rep explained that the correct pressure for Metzeler tires is whatever cold psi allows the tire pressure to increase 10% when it's nice and hot. Here's how he told me to find the correct cold pressure: If the hot psi is less than 10% higher than the cold psi, your cold pressure is too high and needs to be lowered. If the hot is more than 10% higher than the cold pressure, the cold is too low and needs to be increased. It's a little bit of effort to come up with the correct number the first time but Metzeler seemed to believe in a "hands-on" approach to personalizing tires to each person's individual riding style.

I am trying to decide between removing the PCII or loading Big Jeff's custom map. Since none of the available maps for a non-European stock bike with stock air filter and slip-ons seem to be what I need even though M102-001 worked quite well before I installed the cans. What's the difference between mine and a European model anyway? 99-2001 Honda CBR 1100XX (99-2000 European Models) Maps Available: M102-ALL - All available CBR1100XX Maps M102-000 - Zero Map M102-001 - Completely stock bike M102-002 - Completely stock bike with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel M102-003 - Full Micron "race only" exhaust M102-004 - Full Micron "race only" exhaust with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel M102-005 - Full Akrapovic exhaust and stock air filter M102-006 - Full Striker (Hiper Dimension EX) exhaust and stock air filter M102-007 - Erion Racing full exhaust and stock air filter M102-008 - Erion Racing full exhaust and stock air filter with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel M102-009 - Yoshimura RS3 full exhaust and stock or K&N air filter M102-010 - Yoshimura RS3 full exhaust and stock or K&N air filter with modified ignition curve. Use 93 octane or higher fuel M102-502 - European Model with Bos open slip-ons and stock or K&N air filter M102-503 - European Model with Bos open slip-ons and stock or K&N air filter with modified ignition curve. Use 98 octane or higher fuel M102-504 - European Model with Akrapovic full exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter M102-505 - European Model with Sidekick open slip-ons & Db killers with stock or aftermarket air filter

Several weeks ago, I added a PCII to my completely stock 2001. I felt that there was a bit of an improvement in the mid range and in the responsiveness. This weekend, I installed a set of Micron slip-ons and the bike almost feels as it did before the installation of the PCII. The responsiveness seems a bit slower and there seems to be a bit of hesitation when opening the throttle at 5,000 rpm in 6th. Any ideas before I install a map for Micron slip-ons with an OEM air filter?

Where in Michigan?

Here's another great idea for securing the bike. http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/frontstand.html

I'm planning on adding a set of Micron slip-ons but am wondering if the left side pipe has a stopper for the centerstand. The XXs pictured at their website all have centerstands but I would like to know from someone who has these on their bike. If not, how can one be installed?

Yeah, I did. That's what I meant when I said :grin: If you did get a warped hugger, you might try heating it in an oven for a while and tweaking it a bit. If you can't return it, you might as well try to fix it. That's also what I had to do with mine. Unfortunately, the movement of riding the bike eventually caused the mounting hole to enlarge even more and more until the hugger became unusuable. I replaced it with a Red-Fox which fit perfectly and seems to be of better quality but, I do miss the fact that the Pyramid extended below the swingarm to provide better protection to the shock.

The 01/03 OEM rr seems like a much better deal than the aftermarket one

http://www.starcycle.com 97-02 CBR1100XX MRPH57-SS-A FULL SYSTEM AL ROUND $599.95 97-02 CBR1100XX MRPH57-SS-AO FULL SYSTEM AL OVAL $639.95 97-02 CBR1100XX MRPH57-SS-CO FULL SYSTEM CARBON OVAL $749.95 97-02 CBR1100XX MRPH57-SS-SO FULL SYSTEM CHROME OVER STAINLESS OVAL $749.95 97-02 CBR1100XX MRPH57-SS-TO FULL SYSTEM TITANIUM OVAL $749.95

A guy from Yuasa once told me that it almost takes a 1/2 hour ride at freeway speeds to just replenish the amount of current that was used to start the bike in the first place. If most of your riding consists of rather short hops, you should really keep a Battery Tender connected while your bike when you're not riding it. Other than that... a 1999 battery has already lasted longer than you had any right to expect it to and should be replaced.

After the first week or so, I started having an Atkin's Shake for breakfast and an Advantage Bar for a snack later in the day or in the evening. My wife kept suggesting that these were the reason for the stopping of my weight loss and even for the fact that I gained a couple of pounds in the past few days. Interesting stuff here: http://www.atkinsdietbulletinboard.com/vie...pic.php?t=11278

My wife and I are both doing Atkins just so that we don't have that type of problem.

I've been doing Atkins for 4 1/2 weeks and have only managed to lose about 12 pounds. I'm treadmilling each morning and lifting weights each evening. Although I'm getting obviously thinner, I never took any measurements before I began the diet and now I'm only left with watching the scale stay the same... day after day after day. :sad:

Guess that I should have been more clear with my posting. Does anyone know where to buy a good spring scale that I could use to measure the steering head bearing pre-load on my XX?

To measure steering head bearing pre-load, the manual says to use a spring scale. Where do you find a spring scale that measures within the range of 1.0 to 1.5 kilograms of force?

Found it at Ron Ayres for $42.58 The part number is 07916-3710-100 and there is no part number 07916-3710-101 Since it will also fit my Goldwing, I may as well buy one to have in the toolbox.

I found this on another list: It appears that this is fits just about all Hondas. Where is a good place to purchase one of these things anyway?

Use Chevron Techron. Really cleans the fuel systems of my FI XX and the carbs on my Goldwing. Get it at Wal-Mart

That's interesting since my 2001 came with a regulator that has large cooling fins. Must have been a difference between the U.S. and NZ models

Attaches all around the edges and up the center with thin two-sided adhesive tape.

I had always used a Mag-Knight tank bra on my XX but never really liked the way that it looked on the tank. After looking closely at the locations of all of the scratches on that bra, and learning that 99.99% of them were right at the back of the tank... I decided to install a genuine Honda tank pad instead. In the U.K. this pad carries part number 08P61-MCS-800 and is shown in the official Honda U.K. Accessories Catalog as an accessory tank pad for the CBR1100XX, ST1300, and a few other models. In the United States the part number is 08P61-MCS-100 and the box says that it's an ST1300 part. Bottom line is that it costs $40.14 from Ron Ayers and it fits the XX very well.

The directions that come with the kits are excellent. Since the original installation on my bike, I have switched to 5wt fork oil and am much happier with the ride.

If I install a pair of TwoBrothers Slip-Ons, what other changes will my 2001 XX require? Power Commander? K&N Air Filter? Or... will the bike make its own necessary adjustments for the fuel injection system to handle the new mufflers?