Ran an automotive 20-50w in my FZR 1000 and immediately got the symptoms you describe. Back to the Rotella 15-40w and immediately gone. I have read that the diesel grades have a zinc compound that is good for the wet clutch design. I run it in all my bikes now.
I have had mixed results with MOOG parts. I would likely use them for ball joint replacement. Honestly, since I made a good parts counter contact at a GM dealer some years back I go GM for anything I can. They beat most auto parts store prices and I expect better quality since they're selling the stuff.
Curious if de-ionized water would technically be the best choice. Frankly I see little issue if you use antifreeze, but the bike referenced was a track bike with water only...
Unfortunately I have bar risers, not sure what kind. Seriously considering putting the clip ons back. I will have to dig them up and compare the clamp thickness. I do know what is installed now is not as you describe, and it is possible the forks have been raised from the factory setting.
What is the baseline fork tube height? When I removed my forks for the revalve I just measured from the the cap (shoulder, not top of the hex) to the top of the tree and reinstalled at the same number. I have no idea if it was at the stock tube height though.
Last I checked, a few years back, Gary had moved on due to being let go with the slow economy. They no longer gave friendly pricing. It was great while it lasted....