rodantking

I bought a handfull of 2ct because I got them for less then standard paowers. I'm on the last set. If you're really hitting them (grade A road) you can watch the sides of the rear disapear. Nice tire though. Never gotten any scarry movement out of them. If your looking for more than 3000 look at the new roads. Same sides as the old powers and same middle as old roads. There next on my list.

UNLESS IT IS SOMETHING I HAVEN'T SEEN IT'S JUST LIKE THE OLD STUFF, BUT WITH A VACCUM THAT ATTACHES TO THE EQUITMENT. MUST FLOORING COMPANYS NOW USE THIS SO DONT GO WITH THEM BECAUSE IT SAYS IT IN THIER NAME. ALSO, THEIR IS NO SUCH THING AS DUSTLESS, ONLY LESS DUST. IT REALLY PRETTY CLEAN, BUT DON'T THINK YOU WON'T HAVE TO DUST AFTER THEY LEAVE.

This is the only option I can find: http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/cycles/ap1.shtml

I already have a switch power souce, but am adding more stuff. Any suggestions on one and a vender?

Try finding someone on this board that has the tools. We would be happy to lend you a garage for a few hours then you only have to ship tires. Also, you can ship them sooner and not have to worry about it getting there too soon or too late and if you mail order you never even have anything pay to ship. A garage, stands, tools, no shipping cost, easy.

If sounds like you have limited experaince. You would be wise to buy plans of one you like because there is to much time and money invested to have a piece of shit to show for it. I would try woodcraft first. Never been on there web site to see if you can see the pic. of the plans, but I would asume it does. Good luck. And get the right woodcraft. If you are looking at new rearsets, you have the wrong site!

That thing is nice. Net it works great.

Best of my knowage 99 and up are all the same

I'm not running that set up so I can't help on documentation. As far as oil goes, I would start with 10w. You are going with much larger valves to let more oil flow. You should get enough flow with 10 and that will allow the shim stack to do its good better.

sounds like you already found out

Yes, you can... I hadn't cut the extra of yet, but the opposite ends are lined up, and they are not a full link different. It lines up to the link that's right next to it. I stretched them out on the ground, and made sure they were flat. The old one is stretched something like 3/16" total. Mike I think I see what you were saying. The links that lined up weren't show in the picture, right? If yes, then I can see your point. The one on the left was definitely longer. Thanks for the pics. I think I need to replace mine now, even though it 'only' has 22k miles :-) By the way, what size sprockets are you running with the new chain? The stock is 17/45 and I got myself a set of 18/45 and a 112-link DVD ZVM2 chain. If you run 18/45, how many links of chain you use? I ordered 110-link but it came package as a set together with 2 sprockets and 112 links. I may have to cut off 2 links myself. Never ran a 18, but others have said it is still 110.

i believe the front brake lever only operates the outer front pistons and is indendent of the rear brake. Sounds like air in the line. Question is how did it get there. don't forget to check the lines and fitting also. I remember Dale (warchild) did a write up on mc's about 2 years ago on this board. Run a sceach and use his name to narrow the field.

Lets not forget that my idea is one that worked

Wow the guilt!! 4.7" of travel or 119.38mm, but it sounds like you are looking for a total length and it sounds like you already have the brakes off.....just drop a tube.

Not to be a smart ass, but have you tried measuring them? :icon_think: As far as the brakes what have you done? Sound not so good. I sure someone can answer your question if you asked it.

Check and re-torque your head bearings, but I would also thing it is your suspension set up

make sure you are snuging up the adjusters (counter clockwiss) after you tighten the axle or it will work forward quickly.

If those are roads I would run about 38 on the front. It's as hard as wood pecker lips

I was gps confermed 83, it read 85. Close enough for me. Stock gearing

I thought it was over dampened so I am running 5w. I would like a little more rebound now, but it is still much better for me. I don't think anyone is going to say anything bad about Silkolene. I would say what ever you put in use the top of there product line.

+1 I just changed springs and went to 5w oil. Won't say its perfect, but for a 100 bucks it was night and day. The Traxxion AK rebuild seams like the best route to go but that one will cost over a grand just for the forks.

I hear ya. I don't mind sending money on my bike, but it is the princable of the matter. :icon_duh:

It is in the tank. I just thinking I would be a good boy, but me thinky I will be a bad boy.

I went to order a fuel filter today and got a quote of $65. My first thought was replacing it with a different one, but when I got home and tried to find it, it sent me to the manual. What was Honda thinking? This looks like a sever pain in the ass to change. They don’t list a replacement schedule for it. I sure it is fine and quickly deciding that it will not get changed this year, but was wondering what everyone else’s thoughts on it were. How long before replacing them and do I stay stock. That is something I can not tell if it is interchangeable until it is out.

I put a relay on mine. It is pulling power from the battery and it uses the rear running light to complete to curcuit.