redxxrdr

Is your countershaft sprocket OEM? It too will have a built in rubber damper. I went to a after market sprocket the last time I did a chain to go up a tooth. I doesn't have the damper. But I would go back to OEM if I noticed wear. Not all replacement parts are the same quality. I can't tell you if running without Cush drive at the rear would cause the problem. But, I bet replacing the counter shaft drive means a transmission tear down. I think I would replace that front sprocket soon.

I ordered the sh847aa,. I hope as the Suzuki part number. It is the next, next generation of the 775. i haven't received it yet. It was the latest one recommended on the Trumpet forums that Krypt Keeper posted.

Mike, Of course I agree with the techs. But do carry your regular meter with you for a while, and maybe a extra key to pull the seat while it's acting up. Hopefully you will never see it again.

Mike, excellent description of the failure. The mosfet regulator is still a shunt style. It basically does the regulating by taking excess current to ground once the circuit voltage gets above a preset value. So the regulation is done internal to the R/r. That is why it gets so hot. The regulator is probably a high current zener diode. So to your problem, I can't think of any failure other than the R/r that would give a higher output voltage. But, your cluster mounted meter may have gotten a little goofy. Also, the white stuff you describe could be heat transfer compound. It is used to conduct heat from the electronic components to the heat sink. I have seen it ooz out if it gets real hot on non enclosed devices. But I have never seen it leak out of a potted circuit. You are set up better than most with your volt meter. I would ride it a bit more and see if the failure comes back before worrying too much about it. If it comes back, pull in the clutch and let the revs drop to idle. I don't think that you can get more than 13vdc at idle. If you are still reading 19vdc, pull out your real VOM and compare meter voltages while it is broken.

Differences thread link It looks like 99. Had the largest stator and a R/r to match. not sure about your Ricks stator output.

Very old brake fluid can leave a yellow brown to black goop. Thats why it's rocommended to flush and fill. i haven't done this, BUT....... I would pull my left lower fairing, then the clutch slave cylinder. This is a good time to clean the clutch pushrod ,countershaft sprocket and chain. After cleaning everything, you should be able to put a C clamp over the slave cylinder to keep it pushed it. Since it is not moving, the lever should feel firm like a brake lever when properly bled. And, since the slave is not moving, you should also be able to put plenty of force on the lever and look for leaks.

Do you happen to have another bike with a cable operated clutch? A few years back, I was repairing a GSXR then jumped on the XX. I was sure my XX clutch was busted. It was fine, my expectations had changed. I have never had a problem bleeding the clutch, but it will never get firm like brakes. And yes, I spent a long time one day bleeding the clutch before remembering that. 🤔😡😡 But if you are sure that you have air,. A myTvac from Harbor Freight will really help. i usually have to put Teflon tape On the bleed screw threads to prevent from sucking air into the bleeder.

Thank you for posting this. I just ordered two of the Trumpet harness that plug into the 775/847 series regulators. Shipping was more than the harness, so I figured I would get prepared for both bikes. I need a couple more paychecks before I can order the regulator. But both bikes are running correctly now. Some of the post on Trumpet sites also say that they feel a little more power. Have you noticed a change? Is the kit you used the one with that wires directly to the battery, with the auto reset circuit breaker in line? great idea to leave the OEM harness installed. I had not thought of that.

Heating at the connector is usually due to loose or corroded connectors. The problem is, if they got hot enough to melt the insulation, then the conductor may be damaged too. I have used shrink tubing to replace damaged insulation. And I have replaced the connector pins with new. But be careful. Most connectors that you buy at a box store are low quality, plated stuff that corrodes quickly, and will put you in the same place again. A good electrical supply house or appliance store will have full copper spade male/ female lugs. These will not have the little plastic insulator on them. First you crimp the connector to the wire, then solder the connector to the wire. Put shrink tubing over the wires before crimping, make sure that the tubing is far away from the heat before soldering. Having wires failed on both the R/r and starter seems strange. I would read and follow the charging trouble shooting guide, before going too far. Post pictures of the connector and wire damage. It will help us see where the damage starts and ends.

Kurt, The guy doing the football on his 59 has lot's of great ideas on his build thread. The only thing straight on my 65 IS the nose. I have used the football on my son's neon front fender. New driver, new to him POS car. Testing his now polished and aligned headlamps. Didn't get 1/2 mile from the house when a doe stepped into the side of the car at night. Only 45 miles per hour, but the damage was done. I removed the inner fender liner, propped some 2x6 behind the wheel and let the football do it's thing. Wasn't perfect, but a pretty good 20 footer.

I used the coil output instead of the VSS. It's been years, but I'm pretty sure that it had to be programmed with the dip switches. I seem to remember that VSS came from a plug near the transmission. I just avoid vampire clamps on all my upgrades, so used the coil output as engine speed instead. Using engine speed has the drawback of possibly getting different " Resume" speeds, if you are in a different gear than the one you first set the control. But hey, this is a bike. We should be smart enough to figure that out. Jon, Didn't I post that I ride like an old lady?????? 220 per tank was typically on flat Georgia roads at 55-60 MPH. I get much less in the mountains, or at Jennings. And FPR, well it's been a while. Mine was from Turbo City when they still sold the higher pressure, ethanol rated FPR. I never measured the pressure at the rail, Just replaced a leaking one. And yes, my mileage appears to have come back up after removing the cruise. Plus, the throttle is responsive again. I don't have hard numbers on mileage yet. I've been riding with my girls on the last few trips. Translation, when I stop for gas, they all fill up on my nickel. So I haven't gotten any solid numbers. I just know that I have been above 180 miles, and still at two bars on the gauge. Better than the 160, on flashing black that I was getting.

not exactly, used Dry Ice method. Fair results, but i had let the dent sit for a couple of months first. The problem is, my dents are typically much, Much, bigger. They need the Football repair method.

Plus, For years I thought I was helping things by installing LED tail lights and 35 watt HID headlights. Its only been in the past couple of years that I have come to realize that I am making things worse .

I think that the R1 r/R is mosfet. But, the mosfet one still doesn't address the load on the stator. Read the links that Krypt Keeper posted from the Trumpet forums. I can't provide real world experience on the series model yet. It seems that they see a lot more failures on bikes doing track days. Reason, lights are disabled, r/R has to work harder. Links, from those threads take you to vendors that sell mosfet and series regulators. Some even have kits to swap to other bike models. I also saw talk about some of the series regulators not holding up on high rpm track bikes. This, sort of makes sense. A unloaded alternator will easily drive to over 100 vac. I bet some rectifier diodes can't handle the higher voltages when the regulator reconnects. One of the R/R was showing 50 amp output. Thats a whole lot more than my 1960's VW ever had. I wish I could see a schematic of the series type. The vendors say that they need plenty of cooling. Strange, if it really disconnects the stator. Another thing. Isn't the r/R on the 97 mounted low under the tail on the riders left? It is mounted under the right vent in the tail on my 01. I know that the 01 style is physically bigger, but maybe there is better airflow in the new position too.

Just spitballing here. Your 97 would have come with no FI, and the lower output stator. And stock, it should have consumed less power than my 01. Our OEM charging systems use a shunt regulator. Translation, the stator puts out max designed power all the time. The r/R rectifies the stator output, and " regulates" the unused output by shunting it to ground. I.e.: heating the r/R. The newer Mos-fet regulators are more robust, but still work the same way. Another current Postabout charging has linked to threads showing a newer style r/R that is in series with the stator output. This one basically disconnects the stator from the circuit when power is not required. No current flow, no heat, or electrical wear. I haven't quite gotten my head around how the series r/R is being installed, but I think that I will go that direction next . So my thought as to why? You are probably using the latest, higher components, on a model bike that uses the least power. So by design, the regulator part is working harder. Kinda backwards isn't it? Hopefully, Stan or Eric will post if I am full of it or not.

Not really part of the diagnostic, but I'm too lazy to start a new thread. My god daughter came over for a ride this weekend. Her new to her ninja 650 came with under tail led lights. she mentioned that her idle had been surging a few hundred rpm. LEDs were controlled by a rocker switch installed in the instrument cluster. Then I see two 18 gauge wires, running from the rear, tyewrapped to the top of the frame, going to the switch. Two very burned wires. The bike uses the small spade type fuses in the fuse box. Someone had wrapped one of the wires around a fuse, (line side of course), to power the LED strip through the switch. The tank sits on top of the frame, above these new wires. Can you say short ready to happen? It did. She was lucky, the wires opened, the line side of the harness did not fry, and her charging system still works. I disconnected the wires, and she said it ran right now. So long story for my point. When installing farkles, use a in-line fuse. I also use a fused switching relay, per Farkle. And watch and protect your wire routing. Bike vibrate, parts move. It would suck to ruin your bike, or get hurt, for something that can easily be avoided.

I may not have been too clear. The modulator that I linked, didn't drive a large LED lamp. I just ordered one call Back Off tonight. It says that it can drive up to 3 light bulbs. It's about $40.00. I'll post up how it works. The $5.00 one will drive smaller amounts of LED's. Post up how yours works. Also Krypt Keeper is right, red LED work better with red lens. I had forgotten that.

I put direct bulb replacement LED in my SV. They replaced the 1157 bulbs. Brighter, but very directional. They look great from the rear, but not from off to the side. I purchased a spare taillight housing and some super bright LED and added some thirty more LED to go with the ones in the socket. It is bright, but not the clean install that I hoped for. I also added a brake light module from E:bay. superbright led modulator. The good news, the brake light is much brighter. The bad news, this little module would not drive all the LEDs at once. So I need to get another module, and split the load. There are also modules out there that handle the current for standard bulbs. Plus, My soldering has failed me. I have a intermittant open circuit that leaves me with the LED replacement bulbs only. Hey, did I say I was an engineer? GEisME3 Bill has a replacement LED board in his K1200RS with the modulator. It is annoying as hell to ride behind. And that is what I want. Hit the brakes, the brake lamp pulses a couple seconds, then at a slower rate for a couple seconds, then full on. It really gets attention. The problem is, the Beemer dealer that supplied it is closed, and we can't figure out who made the one he has. On my XX, I put strip LED inside the reflector that is just under the tail light. I have one of the modulators driving it. My kids say that it gets attention. I still have the OEM lamps in the tail lights. brake light pulse.3gp I really think that the modulator is the way to go. My daughter rides the SV, so I am working to make it more visible and safer.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/48432-rattling-gears-and-counter-balance-shaft-adjustment/&page=1 I never tried this, but I figure one day I will. As I posted years ago, my 01 gets rough if I allowed it to get really hot. Stop and go at Daytona. Might be worth a try.

I service battery operated equipment a lot. Even a new battery can be bad, or a old battery can be good. I find that starting with a known " at rest" battery helps. If editing, I would suggest removing farkles, and / or disconnecting the R/r connector when looking for drain. To my knowledge, nothing else is directly connected to the battery with the switch off. Yes, the starter solenoid, but that should cause the starter to run, or battery to drain FAST, if stuck. It would be great to have your post stickied right beside the " charging" troubleshooting guide. They often need to be used together. plus, this information also works for boats, automobiles, four wheelers, etc.. Pretty much anything with a battery electrical system.

Great post. The only thing additional that I do is charge the battery, let it settle overnight. Measure the voltage, then install. Measure again. The digital clock on the cluster won't pull enough current to show any short term voltage drop. If you see an immediate drop, with the bike turned off, Problem. At that point, I agree. Disconnect the farkles. Still dropping? Wires worn through insulation, or the R/r has a leak, or full short.

Philip, I did everything but the headwork late last year on a 98 SOHC Neon. You could easily do the work. The issue is, the value of the car. By the time you add the timing belt, tensioner pully, tensioner ( spring or piston), water pump, head gasket kit, AC and alternator belts ( while you are there) you are in for a few hundred dollars. I also found damaged motor mounts, and leaking coolant hoses. Roughly 160 K miles on this one. A couple days of wrenching after my day job, and lots of swearing, it was running again. Right until Chris drove it fast down dirt roads and loosened the oil and transmission pans. Exit fluids, enter more leaks. For our POS, it was good money after bad. Advice, If you decide to do it. Put the car on decent sized stands. Get lots of light. Don't try to short cut removing stuff. These little engines can be worked on in the car. But you have to dissasemble lots of parts to get to lots of parts. Trying to short cut, just makes things harder. Kinda like changing the alternator on a Mini.

sad to say the pictures are lost. so many great people in this thread

Joe, when you do this. do you put a tire patch on the tread side or inner carcass side of the tire? Historical posts would indicate carcass side on a inside out tire.

So like many of us, I installed a Audiovox CS 100 cruise control. It has worked great for 10 years, and thirty thousand miles. Late last year, my bike would intermittently run rough. A stumble would best describe it. I was due plugs, but they did not help. All plugs were a little dark, but not fouled. My gas mileage had also dropped from 220 miles per tank to 160. Then it got worse. Intermittently, I would be hard on the throttle, and the bike would just jump to a higher speed. This was so un-controllable, that I was afraid to ride it. No errors were logged in the ECM. Since the bike didn't indicate a problem, I figured that it must have been a Farkle that I added. I removed the cruise first. Or I should say that I removed the cruise engine speed sense lead from my coil. Three tanks later, and I have not had the problem come back. The cruise must have been causing the coil to randomly misfire. Just a heads up on a possible strange failure. And a question? Has anyone installed any of the newer cruise systems made today? Any favorites? Cruise is too nice to do without on a long legged bike like the XX. also, i think that I will try to use the VSS signal on my next install. I just didn't want to mod my harness in any way.