xrated

Vicodin can be your friend!!! 8) It kept me from going crazy with pain when I totalled my bike and screwed up my shoulder in May. Just don't take em on an empty stomach! Wow!

Stock for stock, the FJR' claimed HP is at 145.....and the Bird is at approx. 136 to 138 HP.

I'm not familiar with the Yammy, but Honda definitely has the key code on the side of the ignition switch. Sorry to hear of your "loss".

I switched my 1000RR to Syn at 800 miles. The previous owner had dyno oil in it. Everything was going just fine until I hit about 25XX miles, then...................................................I totalled the bike! But, the engine was running good before I did!!

You could always buy a Harley Davidson "Screaming Eagle" air filter kit. Most H.D. guys say that makes their bikes as fast as the Jap Crap!!! :shock:

All I can tell you Furbird,.....you need to read the entire article and THEN see if you feel differently about Snell Cert. and such

Wow Joe, you have ESP(N) or something. :shock:

K K wrote: Now I'm no rocket science major, but, you've got a leak somewhere. If you are 100% sure that your gage is working properly, it time for the soap and water and look for the bubbles.

Sounds to me like a reasonable fee.........if they are installing a set of Ohlin front forks!!

I switched to Honda HP4 on my 1000RR this last oil change and the bike only had 900 miles on it. I'll go back to the Mobil 1 15w-50 when I do the next one.

Make it very simple. Put er up on the centerstand, loosen the rear axle nut and get the right amount of chain slack. Now, with the bike in Neutral, spin the rear tire/wheel several times. If the sprocket isn't in the center of the chain links, adjust adjust which ever side needs it. Spin it again. Keep adjusting until after you spin the wheel several times the sprocket in centered in the chain links. DONE!!!

Tom, check your PM's from me. I sent a link to the VFX.com site.

I've got just under 1900 on my BT014 on the rear of my 1000RR and it looks like I'm going to be lucky to 2500 if I keep flogging it the way I've been doing. I just can't keep my right wrist under control with the new bike. Power up wheelies at 100MPH in second gear don't help either. God I'm having fun with the new little beast!!!

Tim, one little red LED, which probably only draws like 3 or 4 milliamps, would take forever to discharge your battery. If the battery is 4 years old, depending on the brand of battery, it was probably at the end of it's useful life.

Please do. I don't think the BT 014's are going to last to long, although everything I've read about them, they say that they are a great tire for grip, feedback, turn-in, etc.

Good find Donnie. I'll probably be looking into these as soon as I can wear out the Battleax BT014's that came on my 1000RR. I don't think it will be that long!!!

Demon wrote: +2

Why does the Air Handler unit need replacement? Is it just the motor and squirrel cage that has gone out OR is the "A" coil bad too? Are you replacing the furnace unit too? $1400 is outrageous for a replacement Air Handler only. Reasonable is he is doing the A coil and the air handler unit. I need more info here.

Good answer Joe +1

A couple of drops of dish washing liquid (you may have to ask your wife what that is) inside each grip. Don't over do it here. Makes them easy to slide on too. Let it set for 24 hrs and it's done.

Take it somewhere reliable and have it load tested. Thay way you know for sure.

Holy Shit Todd, someone stole the siding off of your house while you were sleeping!

Tito, 6" of mercury vacuum is equal to . -2.9469 PSI Hope this helps.

What would a serious oil thread be without the usual comment: "I use WD40 in my motor, mixed 50/50 with canola oil and it has been running very well for the last 2 months."

If the battery is dying in that short of a period of time and the bike is not running, you have a choice of two possible problems. Here is how I would approach it. First, make sure that the battery is fully charged. Then, disconnect the battery leads completely, from the bike. Let it sit for 8 hrs, 2 hrs, whatever amount of time that it would normally be dead. If the battery is still fully charged, you have a problem on the bike with something causing the battery to drain (something is grounded that shouldn't be). The second scenario is if the battery has discharged while NOT hooked up to the bike, and that means that you've got yourself a defective new battery. Something internal in the battery. Sometimes, they will be dropped while shipping or handling them by someone and the internal plates will actually short together. Nothing you can do about this situation except take the battery back and get a new one (hopefully it is warrantied). Hope this helps