XX4me

Quit worrying it's not like you're heading off into the wilderness. Take a couple of extra tools a tire kit and hit the road.

:icon_doh:

The EK chains are good and somewhat cheaper than the DID versions. Get an O-Ring chain like the DID 530ZVM or the EK 530ZVX and you'll be set.

I thought if you had to choose between slightly tight or slightly loose that loose was better because you want that valve to close completely not be held partially open? I have read you can burn a valve seat from tight valves, is that true? but I would rather have it loose than tight. That's what I meant to say, cause your absolutely right.

I think your right. It should be .19mm - .22mm - .25mm for exhaust valves .13mm - .16mm - .19mm for intake valves I recently did mine. Starting Measurements EX #1 - .20mm EX #1 - .20mm EX #2 - .23mm EX #2 - .23mm EX #3 - .23mm EX #3 - .23mm EX #4 - .20mm EX #4 - .18mm IN #1 - .13mm IN #1 - .15mm IN #2 - .13mm IN #2 - .13mm IN #3 - .13mm IN #3 - .15mm IN #4 - 13mm IN #4 - .13mm Final Measurements EX #1 - .23mm EX #1 - .25mm EX #2 - .25mm EX #2 - .23mm EX #3 - .25mm EX #3 - .25mm EX #4 - .23mm EX #4 - .23mm IN #1 - .18mm IN #1 - .18mm IN #2 - .18mm IN #2 - .16mm IN #3 - .20mm IN #3 - .18mm IN #4 - .16mm IN #4 - .16mm IN #3 is .01mm wider than the suggested service limit of .19mm, but I would rather have it loose than tight. Besides I ain't taking it apart again for .01mm. The Hot Cams shim kit I used only had shims in .05 increments, makes it a little trickier.

You said in your opening post you're after "smoother ride and better MPG" right? I doubt you'll notice a "smoother" ride with an 18 tooth front, a little better MPG yes. The mileage increase won't be substantial probably somewhere around 1-3 MPG. One thing you will notice almost immediately is the whine. The stock counter sprockets have rubber bushings that dampen vibration. The after market ones do not. My opinion is if you put a 30 something on the rear and an 18 on the front you'll be taking them off within a week. The loss of low end will be very noticeable. You may even lose top end because the stock HP may not be enough the overcome wind resistance at high speed with such tall gears. That brings up the question of if anyone has any first hand knowledge as to whether the 18 tooth front adds any max speed on a stock bird. Anyone do any top speed runs stock bike/18tooth?

Looked like you were pulling about 16 inches of vacuum right before you went lean and lost power. Seemed to be pretty constant through the different gears too. Hmmmm.......

That's how I have mine set up. I even tested it by pulling lots of timing out at the top end and sure enough the power dropped off considerably.

You WILL need to get it dyno'd. You can not safely run some off the shelf map. The risk of a lean condition is too great. Another option that I feel is well worth it is a Wide Band O2 meter. Get the kind with data logging and you can essentially map it yourself. Then use the dyno to fine tune it. If you have to get it dynod make sure you watch the guy doing the dyno or better yet get in the booth with him. It would be unfortunate to have some yahoo whack the throttle wide open on the first run without paying attention to the A/F and melt the pistons before you even get a chance to have fun. Buy a PC II and hook it inline with your PCIII. Use the PCII to remove a few degrees of timing. Use the PCIII for fuel adjustments. Like I said in an earlier post you r-e-a-l-l-y should get a water injection system. It may very well save your motor if the A/F isn't exactly right.

Nope you don't, and feel free to PM me if your quest gets really serious. There are quite a few people here or on "the other forum" who have experience with turbos. Most of us will be happy to assist in what ever way we can. What year is your bird?

There is no base gasket on the XX. Seems like I remember someone else doing the thick head gasket route, but not sure how well it worked out.

My suggestion would be to avoid hahn and look at MC Express. There is a big difference in quality. Do motor work if you can, i.e. pistons, rods, crank. Get an intercooler. Seriously consider water injection.

Yea no shit and a blow job. Not one of those pull away at the last minute ones either.

Hmmmmm? I had to check the calender to make sure today wasn't April 1st. Getting 20 horsepower out of a finely tuned exhaust system seems a bit of a stretch.

What do you hope to gain? Have you seen any Dynos showing a benefit?

Fucking COOL!!! :icon_thumbsup:

Your counter balancers are out of whack. I've got 1 mm overbore low compression pistons in mine and I think they are smoother than stock. Northman is right about his, no vibration that I remember.

Thank you Dave. You reminded me of a brazilian woman I did some electrical work for a while back. :icon_love:

No chance.

Burns Stainless They have good shit, but they're proud of it.

Well on mine I use the stock coils and plugs. I just tighten up the gap on the plugs down to .022. It supposedly helps keep the boost from blowing out the spark. As far as timing retard I use the PCII and pull timing out at upper rpms where the highest levels of boost are. It's not boost dependant but if you're up at the 9000 rpm mark you'll most likely be at full boost. I do graduate it so I pull less out at 7000 then I do at 8000 ect. My stock knock sensor is still hooked up too. Seems like I remember Dean saying he tested it and the most it affected timing was 2.5 degrees. Not really enough for what I was needing.

This cool I'm glad to see others jumping into the turbo game. Rales you may have to build your own header since your not using the same Mit Super 16G that Hahn does. You may be able to find one made by someone that will fit your turbo but it's gonna cost you. Your best bet is make your own and don't scrimp, use stainless even if it's more of a hassle. Taking your bike apart a hundred times because your mild steel header broke will offset any initial savings. I'm thinking in order to hit 200hp you'll need to be in the 8-10psi range. The type of turbo you're using will have the greatest effect on when the power comes on. If you only want 200hp then get one that maxs out at 250hp but that comes on early. eliXXer is the one here on the forums that can give you the best info on compressor maps and how they affect turbo performance. You'll definately want to make your own air box. Should be pretty easy really, just copy the way hahn did it. You could even add some volume if you wanted but your pumping in air so it may not be needed. You won't need S2000 injectors. There is plenty of room with the stockers to get 200hp. If I were doing it again I'd go the additional injector(s) route instead of relying strictly on the rising rate regulator and the stock injectors. I'd put in 4 additional injectors positioned directly over each throttle body and use the rising rate FPR to control the amount of fuel the extra injectors sprayed. You can do it easier though just build the additional injectors into your intake plenum. The simplest system just uses a Hobbs pressure switch that turns the fuel spray on when boost goes up. It's just not as easy to tune as one where you can enter numbers into the computer. You DEFINITELY want Data Logging. It's real interesting trying to watch the AF meter and the tach while under full throttle. Like I said this is cool. You should definitely keep us posted with a running thread on your progress. I would look into the Aquamist system if you're not going to run an intercooler, just for safeties sake. Now about that reach around................................

Hey Rales where are you located?

I remember that He keep saying that a street sign has to be obeyed even though it was in a parking lot on private property.

Best 2 out of 3 on the 1/8 mile for titles, Forrest? How about the best 2 out of 3 on the 1/4 mile for titles?