Pete in PA

Only way I could lower my seat is if I had my legs amputated. No wait, then I would need a sidecar. Hey Zentime!!! Right now I have the Heli's raised up as high as I dare. About 1 inch. I still get wrist pain on all day rides. Do need a throttle lock though. Why is the throttlemiss. so expensive? It's just 2 bar weights with a special mechanism. $135 :shock:

My understanding is the 45/46's are the replacements for the 35/36's. The new ones are better in wear and traction. This dealer must have some old ones to get rid of.

OK, to recap, Heli makes bars for the XX and VFR. What would happen if I got Heli's for the VFR for my XX or are they the same??? I'm looking for the highest bars of these combos. I currently have Heli's, came with the bike when I bought it used. Are VFR bars the same height as Heli's for the XX? leave it to Honda to charge more for one VFR bar than the other.

Yeah, I've got the stock fork springs. They are shimmed for 1 1/2" of static sag though. Come to think of it I haven't got the fairing down since I shimmed them. Do replace feelers at least once a year and they are shorter ones from a VTR. Leading edge of cans. :shock: VERY edge of a lowside. You'll be in the weeds. :cry: Ease it up. I like to push the leaning envelope also though, but it got me with some fine sand that I couldn't even see last Fall. Too late for sliders now. :cry:

It's too far forward for headlight adj. If you reach between handlebars and insturment trim you can adj. headlight. Not while rideing unfortunately. If I take mine off it might rattle. Hey Andy1100, What's up in that hole???

Excellent!!! Keep us updated. Love mine also. Do you have the footpeg feelers on and what part of the cans touch down? After my pegs fold up my fairing scrapes and then exaust collector under fairing. Yes, factory pipes for me also. :grin:

What is that cover for anyway????? I was going to pry it off and peek, but not anymore.

Hey Swampy, I've got a carb. model of course. Why don't FI throttle bodies need Synced. Carbs and FI both have 4 throttle plates hooked up mechanically. both subject to going out of sync. from wear/vibration and individual cylinder vacuum diffs. Just want to understand.

Ok, almost sold. Don't have one now, had one on old bike. Vista. Miss having one. Where to buy cheapest?

If your bike is a 97 or 98 it is the air cleaner housing hitting the top of the frame. Mine did it, kind of a hollow sound. I put a couple of layers of duct tape on the offending area. No more noise.

Skirt wearing pussies!!!!! From the sales gibberish: Intuitive????!!!!! So they read my mind??? They know what I'm going to do before I do!!!!! WOWWWWWWW! So when I'm just tooling down the highway the tire can be nice and hard for mileage. But when a deer jumps out, It goes super sticky for braking traction. COOL!!!! Not messing with you, Moosejaw just Michelin. I can't knowingly buy French for the time being.

Busted out my HONDA manual and the part you snafu'ed is called the needle jet holder. A brass tube with lots of tiny holes all around right? If that's it, it unscrews from the float bowl side, after the main is removed. I would think Honda would sell it seperately, but then sometimes they are big on assemblies of parts being the only way to get it. You have to watch, parts guys are comission, they WANT to sell you the Whole thing. Not just a little part.

When I went to a Yamaha dealer and asked AFTER the fact, (story of my life) they said that you could buy the plastic connector new also. same dealer told me brand new R1 reg. only $75 :shock: I still need to check another dealer. This one is REALLY backwards ass countryfied even for PA! old dusty, wood floors, crappy bldg. etc. Don't they have standards for dealer quality? They did have a 2003 R1 on the floor though. :grin: sweet.

1/8th of an inch??? As we have said this is a carb problem. It is not hard to find. If you go to a "professional" you will be hit with $60 an hour or more. :shock: Hell they will probably charge an hour to get the body work off. When that guy did the carb rebuild, did he notice if it was all stock jets and needles? Did he completely clean everything. one little chunk of goo left over from stale gas in just one carb will slow the enginge down. Did you check the vac. slides for operation like I told you to? The floats are not adjustable on these carbs, but if you put a hose on and crack the float bowl drain screw, do you get gas from all four? MY bike was used and not running right. I took the fuel petcock apart and found the rubber diaphram was installed with a crease in it. From Honda or previous owner, I don't know. This caused #3 cylinder to suck air and the fuel petcock to not flow enough fuel. At that point Honda didn't sell petcock parts seperately (hope they do now) and it cost $153 for the entire petcock assembly. I did talk long and hard to Honda and got it paid under warranty, even though the bike was out of warranty. :grin: So there still are things to check, don't give up. good luck!!

We do have flash to pass. As long as you are in gear with the clutch out, hit your starter button. Instant flash to pass! Don't worry about running your starter, the clutch switch and neutral sensor won't let it. As long as you don't pull the clutch in to down shift when the left lane hog moves over. I've done this on all Honda's I've owned. I think they are all wired up the same way.

BTW: I remember seeing some posts of feeling the tread rumble at low speeds, 5 to 10 mph. I have not felt this. :grin: There is a nice curvy road I go on where they decided to machine grooves in the pavement only in some corners. Why, I don't know. To mess with sport bikes? winter traction? Whatever. But these Avons don't react badly with them.

Sorry, still in the stone age. I don't have a digital camera. Maybe I could chip out a picture on a slab of granite and someone could post it for me. Most salvage yards will take a CC and ship, just call around. The back of Motorcyclist has ads. Just know the price of a new part to negotiate. I was surprised to see a new R1 reg is only $75.

All I've done is shim the stock fork springs with a PVC pipe piece. I set static sag at 1 1/2" front and rear. big improvement. I'm sure spending some money on the susp. would improve it but I have to go the cheap route. You know Pampers fund etc.

I love these tires! :grin: Very neutral, light steering. They are great at absorbing bumps while vertical and horizontal. :wink: I just hope they wear/last as good as the hype says and no front cupping. btw. 40 F 42 R

I just switched to the 45/46's from totally trashed 020's and my decelleration with hands off bars at 45 mph is almost totally gone. I'm wondering if this whole problem is the allignment problem with front to rear. I have been trusting the swingarm lines to this point. I've tried the string thing to check allign. with not much sucess. Anybody else??

Are the cans alluminum or stainless steel? I'm thinking the SS2R's are stainless or nickel plated. Very hard to do anything with.

If you get another XX reg. it will just go bad again. Do the R1 swap like I did. It's in the garage thread. :grin:

I only ran the rear 205, got 4300 miles to the cord. :shock: Never again. Avon 45/46's are awesome!!!!!!!!! :grin: :grin: :grin:

With all the wireing differences, flash to pass etc. compared to US models this is going to be hard but I'll try. I think the problem is at the starter button. When I slowly push mine with the key on, the low beam turns off (to give the starter more juice) long before the starter engages with further pressing. I don't hear a relay click when I do this. The only time I hear a relay click is when I cue up high beam. So I would take apart the right handle bar switch assy. and check the contacts on the starter switch when the switch is sprung up.

I get 40 mpg on average. I have stock pipes and when I put in a jet kit I dropped to 32 mpg. On the dyno I saw a power increase in the mid range but seat of the pants felt no diff. so I took out the jet kit. Changeing the pilot screw settings and drilling the slide hole made the most diff. anyway as far as power smoothness. (no holes in power delivery).