TIM

I saw these on Warchild's bike photo and he told me what they were, just had to track down the part number (which took me a bit, no bmw anywhere near here) so I thought I'd post it. they are far better than the stock grips, and even better than the superbike grips which I've used for a long time. they aren't flat, they are fatter in the mid grip area. these are from a k1200lt, for standard 7/8" bars. bmw part # 32 72 1 458 395 32 72 1 458 396 pricey, $9 each. :cycle:

bbirdxx2000, I gave the Avons a lot of consideration but there's too many (imo) posts here about extreme mileage variation. 3000 miles? I know a set of mez4 can be trashed quickly too but that doesn't seem to be the common outcome. So no Avons, yet. I'm a big metzer fan anyway. Roadrash, jrdxx, funny how you beat yourself up over a tire, and it's one more expense, and I've got 2-3 half tires down stairs that are really just laughing at me whenever I get near them. :evil: My luck is I'll pick up a nail 55 miles down the road on a new mez4 and then I'll just be the most fun person to be around So I agree, good comments. so I'm replacing the front for sure (what a piece of shit the 205 is) and am going to give the rear more thought. the 100x is a fantastic tire and doesn't sound like they'll go out quickly like the dunlops I had. I'm going to get a tire depth gauge too and be more confident after I measure. :cycle:

Edward, bbirdx2000 thanks! I thought the tire only was half gone and I'm glad to hear it sounds like it's got plenty of life yet. I'think you're right though, might as well put it out of mind. I only wish the tire was still made. I am replacing with Metzler M4 this time so I better get ordering.... :smokin:

did a search on this, and I'm sorry to litter the garage, but I must ask ... my 180/55 100x has 4575mi . i don't have a tread depth gauge but comparing the side (no wear heh heh) depth down to the twi and the center of the tire down to the twi, it looks half gone. i have a 3700 mi trip coming hopefully, touring, and wondering if your macadam 100x wore evenly/linearly or did it start to wear out at a faster rate once past a certain point, like 50%. am i going to get 3700 more out of it or should I just trash a half worn tire. if this were a dunlop, it'd be a no brainer but i hate to waste my good french tire :grin: how many miles did you get out of your 100x rear? p.s. i run it at 40lbs

I changed the preload (loosened the collar, counterclockwise) a while ago and that was a significant improvement. I'm assuming that lessened the preload, maybe I'm wrong. the ride feels softer and the spring is less compressed. But I still don't get your answer on rebound. Does HARD on the honda mean faster rebound? the rebound is not fast enough, the shock takes too long to rebound and that is dangerous. Compression seems to be a bit better. thanks for the headlight info, racoon's can sleep tonight in the trees.

going over all the things breaking my back,,,,,, all shocks I've owned (first honda) say FAST or SLOW on the rebound. no problem. The Honda says SOFT/HARD. So I set softer and softer because the roads are very very rought. but that aint' werkin. but I read this book tonight, 'owners manual' or something like that, I forget, it says the opposite: for rough roads set to HARD. So am i correct understanding that hard=faster rebound??? the lack of rebound is ..... !@#$%. roads (and I use that term loosely) where I live are more like broken slabs of concrete. next, my headlight is illuminating racoons at night, when they're in the trees. the strange 'owners manual' doesn't tell me how to lower it to racoons on the highway, is it that big grey knob beneath the front fairing on the right? lastly, how in the hell am I to get the bar ends from spinning? I'm serious. well thanks,,,, more brain stumpers coming for sure :grin:

not sure I know the exact part you're looking for BUT! www.helmetshop.com is where I bought my symax plus the whole parts kit, I've not opened it but it has the side plates, gears, plastic nuts, spacers etc. I think it was $12 or something like that. here's the numbers on the package: p/name: gear plate set p/n hfp10g1101000 I asked the guy about spare parts kit cause I always seem to break these things, and he knew right away what I wanted. Tim

Joe I followed your directions to the T. Thanks for nothing. :evil: . . . . . . . :grin:

From the perspective of 'Walmart' , not the National Oil Debate League.... I'm only relaying what Shell wrote to another person I know who inquired about Rotella and using it on a busa (I have the letter) and I'm no oil expert at all, but on the Rotella but I'll pass this along the jist of it: Rotella T Synthetic contains retains higher phosphourous and zinc content, which was reduced by ILSAC requirements (EPA I think). , also, it's not an 'energy conserving oil'. The "diesel" or "heavy duty oil" synthetic oil like Rotella (which Shell wrote is a good oil for bikes like the busa) contains LESS friction modifiers than most others. Notice i didn't write 'no friction modifiers' I think all oils have FM. it's a matter of degree. In reality I think think this is important if you race, not sure if street duty really demands this, who knows. Another good diesel oil which I've heard is as good is the Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40. I think the POINT for ME was: 1. generally viewed as a very good oil, safe for high demanding motors & WET clutches 2. ECONOMICAL (since it's an 'automotive oil') 3. the can is NOT labelled 'energy conserving oil'! 4. feedback from mc riders who actually have used it Rotella meets CF4 CG4 CH4 SH SJ SL SF SG. (read, warranty safe) Works for me , might blow up your bike, so I'm not responsible :grin: make your own informed decision.

Since you mentioned Walmart.... I use Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40. for 4 str. mc or diesel engines, less friction modifiers. SL SF SG safe. buy it by the case.

I have used 3 on the XX, all Garmin 76S GPSMAP STREET PILOT STREET PILOT III DELUXE Unless you specifically need route planning and the feature of being told when to turn (as you wrote you didn't) then the SPIII may be overkill. the 76S screen is a tad too small, but wonderful unit. The B&W STREETPILOT is my favorite because: -screen is the largest between SPI, SP COLORMAP and SPIII -cheap used off ebay $200 -can load up to 50 maps, so you could plug in a 32 or 64mb cartridge for good results. -if it falls off onto the road no big $$$ lost. -same waterresistance as the other high end garmins '7'. got any questions specific let me know.

I've not measured exactly but touring with dad this summer (him on a new goldwing) I'd stop when the odometer reached 200 miles (reserve had just starting 'blinking') and I believe it only filled 5 gallons. I felt I could go 230'ish if pushed.....

Front: mine has ~4500 and notalbe cupping. Wondering what kind of mileage you are getting out of the D205 front? Thinking of replacing with Mich Pilot Road and wondering how much of the D205 I'll be throwing away... :roll: any opinions on the MPR? I have a Mich macadam 100x on the back which I like a lot.....

does the rentec require removing the grab rail?