Mekanix

Just a little more encouragement... if you keep at it you will never hurt this way again. You can push harder than you did last time and you won't come close to hurting like the first time. Don't let the pain make you give up.

1. This thread is about maintenance, not family members. I'm sure the dog is fine. 2. Don't weld after using brake clean on the same spot... bad things happen.

Heh heh heh. I hate to say it this way but it's supposed to hurt like that, sorta. Too frequently, I have life get in the way and I will spend a month out of the gym. When I get back I hit it hard and feel like you do. For me, by the third day, most of the lactic acid has gone and I feel a little sore and a lot of tight, and a little bigger. I remember days when I couldn't walk or stretch out my limbs. Sitting on the toilet and taking a crap was so painful I considered just doing it in my shorts. It may feel like he put too much weight on, I would suggest he's trying to find your limits and work on extending them. I'm guessing you have probably never worked out like this and it's new to you. Stick with it and trust your trainer. I would assume his primary goal is to teach you the machines and get a start on muscle growth. Don't worry, you won't look like Arnold for years to come even if you tried your best. Supplements have never been my thing. Other than arginine, ornithine and carnitine (repair, build muscle and energy conversion) I take a little yohimbe for a burst of git-er-done before a workout. Some people believe in them, some people believe in diet. Some speculate that most supplements are hard on the liver and I have problems there already so I don't want to do anything to aggravate it further. I figure amino acids are already in the body and I only take them sporadically at best so they probably aren't doing much for me either. link for supplement info... Other links on the right side of the page. http://www.vitaminstuff.com/amino-acid-ornithine.html

1. Listen to your trainer's words as gospel. 2. Eventually, use what you learn to listen to your body. What worked for you now may not be right for you in 6 months. By then yo will be in better tune with what your body needs. You may then decide to hire a trainer for individual sessions to determine how best to work on what you want to do next and get advice to if it's a good idea and how to get there. In the end, there is no perfect routine all the time. 3. Best of luck! PS When I got serious about 20 years ago, I hired a personal trainer as well and spent $200 I think. His basic routine is what I still use today, just different exercises here and there.

When I did mine, I had tire touching with new rubber. When the tire got some miles, it stopped. It's the natural build up of the wearing surface of the tire. Nothing to worry about.

Congratulations! I like what the others have said. I would also add/compliment what they say by restating that if you want bigger muscle, you do fewer reps with more weight. Here's the thing... You aren't going to get massive muscles unless you are REALLY focused and tuned in to making them and only over a considerable amount of time. You can easily get an "athletic" build just doing good, heavy weight and a moderate routine. Some things I changed (for me) to get the results I want and the thinking behind it. Get enough rest. Let your muscles have time to build. Overtraining is actually easier to do if you don't have a lot of muscles than if you have more IMHO. The reason being the mindset that more = better. I find myself hitting a new level in a particular weight set if I can't break a wall when I take a week off from that particular exercise and then come back and hit it hard again and rest. It takes a week or so, but if I think I want to do an extra 5-10 pounds on something, I take a bit of time off and then hit it hard again with more time between hitting that group. No cardio other than a quick warm up to get the blood pumping. I saw a 100# increase in the weight I could squat with no other change. My muscles got bigger (more mass) and the bigger muscles burn more calories than smaller muscles in a state of rest (more muscle mass = greater strength and stability = higher # of calories burned day to day) Make dietary protein a bigger percentage of calories consumed. Then lots of plants. No worries about oil/fat/peanut (and other) butter. Minimize grain intake. Lots of lean chicken, turkey and ham and cottage cheese (whey protein). I count calories and track intake and keep my calories at about 3000, for now. I try to keep my carb intake at less than 30% but fail pretty consistently. Carbs sneak in to my diet in the weirdest places. If you are thinking you want to get BIG, I will tell you what I told my gf. Take it slow. If you are really pushing yourself HARD 3-5 times a week and your diet is in tune and you are getting big gains, remember that your tendons and connective tissues grow at a slower rate than muscles. You can easily injure a connective tissue and have a setback. This works for me, this is what my body likes. Listen to your body over everything else. It will tell you what to do. Good luck.

Conversely, it appears that Dave has figured out the diet for beginners. With education, he can tinker with his diet and get what he wants from his workouts. Dave, you're a hot piece of ass that I am proud to have poured chile thru. Like all things in life, take what works for you and file all the rest. It may be useful in the future

my .02. I have a basic routine that I have used pretty much for 2 decades. When I make time for the gym I get good results and I feel good. It's easy to remember and I find ways to get creative with it. Day 1: Pulling exercises and triceps. Day 2: Pushing exercises and biceps. Day 3: Squats. I can do this 6 times a week or 3 times a week and get good results. It works for me, may not work for everyone or be the best for hardly anyone. Pulling is mostly back exercises. I use seated cable rows and cable pull downs. Assisted pull ups machine is also a good one. My routine is 3-4 back exercises and 2 triceps exercises. Pushing is mostly chest exercises. I use bench press, dumbell incline press and machine press (I don't know the particular machine. I sit in the chair, push bars down to my sides) or machine assist dips. 3-4 chest exercises. 2 biceps exercises, usually isolated curl and preacher curl. I throw in a few different curling techniques to mix it up. Squats is just squats. I do 6-8 sets of 6-10 reps. I gradually move up and down in weight hitting maximum workout weight around the 4th or 5th set. I go until my legs are rubber. Technique is infinitely more important than the amount of weight you move. Have a personal trainer show you technique because it is really easy to get hurt doing squats incorrectly. I do deep squats, my upper leg almost parallel to the ground. To me, I see squats as the kitchen sink of leg routines and don't do anything else. Some people will disagree, but my legs are strong and don't look weird. I have good calf definition and good proportions. My weight moving sets is 3-4 sets on everything but squats and the goal for all exercises is no less than 6 reps and no more than 10. If I can do more than 10, I increase the weight. If I can't do 5, I decrease the weight. Muscle and fitness magazine is a great magazine for learning techniques. They show many many exercises every issue and you can study the technique and find the equipment in the gym they use and what they use it for, then apply it to your personal routine. This will give you a greater arsenal of techniques to use when you go to the gym and make your workouts more flexible so you can do things when equipment is down or being used by the chatter crew. Just keep at it and keep learning new stuff. Also listen to your body and it will tell you what it needs as you get better at it. As an aside, I no longer do cardio, at all. I never believed the cardio bs and I always thought I was just burning off that hard earned muscle I just made. I feel better, am stronger and bigger without always being worn down and tired like I was when doing cardio. For me, cardio bad.

In my mind, pumping all that REALLY thick oil thru cold oil passages is hard on the engine. This is, of course, my mind. Nothing closely resembling reality exists there. That being said, my commute is only 10 minutes. With FI, the engine runs fine at cold temps. My rule of thumb is keep it below 2k until I feel heat coming from the vents. Since I have about 5 minutes of neighborhood driving, by the time I hit the main road I got some heat. I had a classmate in high school when we had a big freeze and I think it got to around 15F. He had a tendency to just floor it cold. That winter we pulled his engine because he spun a bearing. His oil pump driveshaft was twisted until it broke in two. I imagine it was thick oil but I have no proof. Now when I start my car in the cold I imagine that poor little pump driveshaft in that engine and keep the rpm kinda low until I think the oil is a little warmer. Coolant temp is not the same as oil temp. I know the oil is actually colder than the heater, but at least it's getting warm by that time. Also, synthetic is much more desirable at low temperatures, so says bob the oil guy. bobistheoilguy.com

I can't answer your particular question but I did find these when I was trying to find a way to manipulate the voltage signal to the computer to get the right richness in that stupid lean burn 696. After I totalled up all the parts I came across it and it was just about the cost of parts minus the need to troubleshoot and find the right resistance. http://www.fatduc.com/compatibility.html Of course the same could be used on a BB. Someone with more electronics than I could find a way to use solid state circuitry to electronically get the signal you want if a wide band O2 sensor doesn't work.

All I'm gonna say is all those top fuel dragsters don't have mufflers on them. Maybe backpressure is necessary, maybe it isn't. I don't see how it can be avoided while making an engine quiet enough to be tolerated and also installed in the tight confines of an engine bay. With those two considerations, it seems the desire should be to minimize any that you can.

Good luck with the sale, sorry to hear the news...

I bought a Corbin for mine. It put me much farther away from the gas tank and made seated position better. This will change the way you are in relation to the handlebars and I was considering the new risers, but that is no longer an issue. It also has rigid sides which kinda made it odd for putting my legs down at a stop light. It didn't bother me, it just felt a little odd. The seat is well designed and even without the backrest, the pillion had a much better grip in the seat when throttle was applied. I could let it go for a real good price since the bird is crashed (seat was untouched, less than 500 miles on the seat). PM me and we can talk price but it will be a sweeeet deal

I know at least one type of thinset that is designed to go over stuff like stuck on glue and paint. If you are really concerned, a belt sander and a few belts of 80 grit should do the trick. Again, no need to get it all off, just get to the concrete.

Neat little gadget, if I wasn't so cheap and didn't have a shitload of old toothbrushes laying around...

Wow! At least when a tire fails, it gives a pretty good indicator... in this case, a wobble. Good thing he wasn't on the road.

pm sent

If I was going in a straight line and not diving into turns, I'd run it until the belts show. Since my ankle is still pissed, I'd say change them. Just saw what the insurance covered and I am sooo glad I have awesome insurance! When it stops being so fucking hot, I will post what my tires looked like. Of course all my riding is now close to home, so I wasn't worried...

If it were me, I'd get a welder with a tig and a lot of talent. Have him weld a nut on the ez-out and have him get it out. He may have to do some welding on the aluminum after he fixes that... At times, I defer to those who know a hell of a lot more than I do about how to unfix what I fix. This would be one of those times for me. Childress welding here knows my by my phone number.

My local guy has always cut me a deal. Every purchase I have ever made from him has been at a discount and I have never been able to find a better deal online anywhere. Just a local shop owner who believes in the power of a fast nickel.

Just ordered one!

It was a long time ago, I stand corrected.

Wow, I don't know about your local building codes. I was a roofer for 5 years before I joined the Navy. We always used galvanized steel roll in the valley, although copper is very common in other areas. It didn't matter if we wove the shingles or made I nice, neat cut. After the first two years using roll, we began using stamped galvanized steel in a kind of a W shape. Should look like this. This a copper version over galvanized roll. Notice the bottom of the galvanized is not contoured to the corner of the roof but allowed to extend with a 90 degree straight cut. Some good advice on installing it.. http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/r...g-details.shtml We usually would install the flashing, nails at the edge of the outside. Run shingles along one side, pop a line about 1/2 inch from the crown on the flashing and cut. Do the other side and repeat. On the owners request, we would cut the shingle at the crown for a very tight finish. It was to code at the time, not sure if still correct. For a more subdued look, you can get galvanized that is coated in a darker brown or grey that would compliment the shingle color.

I've spent a year or three wrenching and I have come to understand one thing if I understand anything. There's not a whole lot of difference between "sufficient" and "optimal". Case in point... Your engine is running rough. It's been faithful for 150,000 miles and you change your oil regularly and change the filter when you should. Dating myself a bit, but assume you use old fashioned spark plug wires. You have a free weekend and you decide to ohm out the plug wires and find a few that ohm out beyond spec and two with boots broken and hardened. You figure you should at least change the wires because you have a handful of failures anyway. Do you... 1. Buy original equipment wires. They worked fine for 150K miles and seemed to do the job. 2. Buy $200 Super Accel Hyper coil condensor spark wires. Most will think #2 is the obvious choice. #1 one was the correct and properly designed wire for the job. It worked without you noticing anything for over 100K miles. In the end, the minuscule advantage you may see is promptly overridden by the cost of the wires. I've seen 150K plus time and time again for all my cars and I have over 50k miles on the bird. I pulled the cover off for a Stator change and the inside was spotless. The beast still pulls like a train and I have no ill effects. I have not done an engine analysis and I haven't had my oil tested. Based on my Mobil 1 experience in cars, and my Honda experience in engines, I expect the rest of the bike to rust away before the engine suffers any ill effect from the oil. (Yes, I know aluminum doesn't rust...) Back to my original example. It wouldn't matter what kind of oil I used if I didn't change it. I am a firm believer in the quality of synthetics. I can find Mobil 1 practically anywhere. Amsoil may be marginally better as shown by their own tests. It is, IMHO, not significant enough to justify the cost of the oil, the headache of maintaining a distribution line, or the lack of convenience of getting only what I need, when I need it. It may be worth it for someone else to deal with Amsoil, and I think it is probably worth what you pay. Just not worth it to me.

The only way, IMHO, to know if the sprocket is good is to look at it and see if it shows wear. If it does, you are only shortening the life of the chain by leaving it on there. It may not be much, but it will shorten it's life. I bit the bullet and replaced my set with AFAM with 3 more teeth on the back to get better low end (not a fan of over 170 anymore, don't know why) and more useable power. AFAM front sprocket has no rubber, was actually barely moveable on the shaft after torquing the bolt. It has a noise. Ended up with ~11% change in speedo with much more responsive street driving. Bought a speedo healer and plugged it into my harness, solved the speedo problem. The bike is much more responsive in town and gets to redline in a hurry. YMMV BTW, I regularly did and do clean my chain about 500 miles or so with kerosene (we all have our addictions) and lube with synthetic gear oil when it starts looking a little dry. ~25K on my last one after developing a stiff section on my DID chain.