RXX

My bird died on me today, on a Friday night, thousands of miles from home. I hope somebody here can point me in the right direction. I had been on the bike pretty constantly for about 8 hours. I stopped at an intersection to fiddle with my GPS, and I cut the bike off. using the engine kill switch. When I flipped it back on, and pressed the starter button, all the lights went out. That is pretty much the sequence of events. I got out my multimeter and checked the battery...12 V plus or minus a little. The 30 amp fuse is not blown. I do not see any blown fuses. When I check the voltage to the battery with the switch on, it doesn't read in volts; instead it starts reading in Ohms. Same thing when I test the "hot" side of the main fuse.... Does this mean anything? I had the bike towed to a hotel and I am going to take the rear cowl off and try to find out what is going on. I am in Sonoma CA My cell is (865) 567 5469 I will get up and at it at about 7 PDT Thanks for the help

Josh, if you have to have it to keep running, that's more important than my use.... (as a spare, more or less) I can send it to you for my cost and a blowjob

Well, welcome aboard, Trexx....and thanks a lot for hurting the feelings of our lil' kiwi member. Now we'll have him coming around crying on everyone's shoulders

John, I do not have a clue to its worth, but I have a spare rear wheel that I have to swap out my rotor every time I put it on (I use it to mount my new tire on, waiting for my old one to wear out) $15? I'll pay shipping Philip

Who makes them?

BRILLIANT!!

Something has gone terribly wrong here, and the fabric that our existence is cut from is being rent...... there is a flame war between 2 Kawa owners in the for sale section over ZX14 parts? God, help us please. My head is about to pop

I'll take 'em. Give me today to pm you w/details, OK?

Just finished installing mine..... Yes SIR that's a loud damn horn!!

You know, I have been thinking about this too..... I just got a set of used forks and put them on before I checked the oil level (they had only about 4K sonce Racetech rebuild, so I didn't think it necessary) Then I read the fork rebuild thread and wish I had changed the oil, but no fucking way do I have time now. It SEEMS to me that since the height of the oil is supposed to be 139 mm (or something like that) when the forks are vertical, the a bright guy could figure how high it should be at any angle. I am thinking about calculating this and then doing the overfill/vacuum method described in the thread. It has just been so long since my trigonometry class that I am skeptical of my ability. Any high-schoolers on this board??

+1 on what the guys said about DYI with a few caveats..... Are you a mechanical retard? If so, maybe you should find a local mechanic with a good reputation to perform some of these tasks. But if you are mildly proficient with hand tools then by all means go for it. I am finding myself doing increasingly sophisticated stuff on my bird each year even though I am a clutz. The more I do, the more I think I can! What sort of free time do you have? There are a couple of things that I want to do but I know once started may not get finished. On some projects for me, at least, it is just prudent to have someone else do. A few things you'll need..... A shop manual (there is one online here somewhere) this is really needed for torque specs and to find the names of all the dealybobs you will want to find names for. I got an old PC and put it in my shop so I can have the manual pulled up while I am working on the bird. A pack of new fairing pins. These are needed because you WILL break some of them. It is easier and probably better just to replace them each time you get her nekkid. John sells 'em, and if he's out they are cheaper than shit @ JC Whitney. A drill with a couple of hex sockets to r/r all the frankenbolts and fairing bolts makes life much much easier. And some other stuff....

Thanks, guys... both answers make sense. I didn't know if the shock gas pressure is adjusted while on the bike or not. As far as arrows go, no, there is (are) no arrow(s) but the manual clearly states adjusting screw on right side of bike.

I replaced my stock shock yesterday with a CTR rebuild. The shop manual says to have the little rebound screw on the right side (as I am sitting on the bike) which is no big deal, but when I put it in that way, the valve stem for air adjustment is pointing back, where it is (I think) impossible to bleed/inflate or whatever it is that you do to it. If I rotated the shock it would put it in an infinitely more accessible orientation, but the rebound screw would be on the wrong side. Can I simply rotate the cylinder to affect this, rotate the entire shock, or leave it be?? TIA

Ding ding....I bet that is the issue also. The pro oiler can really, really overoil the chain until you get the settings perfected. Ask me how I know! FWIW...the procedures that came with the unit are the most comprehensive documentation I have ever seen....look through the trpubleshooting section.

What a PITA.

The manual directs me to use the mityvac only on the outer bleed valve on the right side. It makes it look like this is the only bleed valve that is opened during the procedure. Am I missing something? Does the fluid pull through the entire system in one pass? Seems too easy for me.

This is a blue sea or blue ray or something like that that I picked up at a reputable watersports mass merchandiser. I wish they made one with mini atc fuses, though.

BUMP We kind of got off topic there........

Tell me more, please......why do you do this and how?

Where are you putting the detector? If you put it on a mount, Powerlet makes the whole setup, but yeah, you still have to mount an outlet somewhere. You know you can hardwire your detector into the bike & bypass any powerlet expense entirely? Check and see, but your detector may not need anything but a 12V power source.

Seriously, what didn't you like about it? Part of my real job requires great dexterity while handling highly radioactive drugs, and I have arthritic hands already. I cannot change tires without dinging my knuckles some, and for the next few days wearing latex gloves on the wounds turns my hands into hamburger. (please, everyone in the medical field, I DO know how to minimize it, but you all know what a PITA it is) If I did more mounting, I might get good enough to do it well, but that ain't gonna happen. I am 53 years old and work about 60 hours a week making more money than I ever have or will. I like working on stuff, but I do not care to get filthy sweaty while manhandling tires any more. I worked at a truck stop as a kid, and when I started doing my own tires last year something just clicked, and I thought, "What the fuck?" Someone else can do a better job for just alittle money. I have seen Josh make using the unit easy, but I do not have his strength, skill, or good looks. So The fault, dear Byrdman, is not in our harbor freight tire changer, But in ourselves, that we are underlings When I'm selling the car for 50 bucks I don't. Butt for you, asscrack, I promise to wash my dick before you buy some of it nexxt time, OK? Holy shit! You're a crude little fucker when you want to be. I like that in a man. You once told me I never had to pay for it again though. WTF? You didn't read the fine print?? LEGAL DISCLAIMER: This is NOT a porn site. But it is intended for adult audiences. By using this website, you declare under penalty of perjury that you are at least 18 years of age and accessing this site from a location where such material is legal to view and possess. Links contained herein not endorsed by or monitored by webmaster. This website is intended as satire for entertainment purposes only. Satire is protected by the First Amendment of the Constitution of the United States of America. RXX reserves the right to cock block when the price of a gallon of low grade gasoline rises above the price of low grade beer. Some linked pages may contain offensive language and nudity, we take no responsibility or assume liability for their content or views contained therein and we do not monitor linked content. Siklink is a non-commercial entity. This site recognizes first amendment rights to free speech in the United States of America. If offended by mature subject matter or material presented, please get a life and exit this site immediately. SIKLINK © 2001-2004 Mad Mosher Productions. All rights reserved.

When I'm selling the car for 50 bucks I don't. Butt for you, asscrack, I promise to wash my dick before you buy some of it nexxt time, OK?

Now with PICS!

No, but what the hell, since they don't have harbor freight in Brandon, and you MIGHT have to drive to Pearl to find one to look at, I'll take a picture for you tonight. (Just hackin' on ya, Billy) Where do you live in Brandon? I lived in Jackson/Florence/Monterey for years. My wife grew up about 2 miles from Whitfield.

So the whole SET should interchange, then? I am looking at the entire set, already rebuilt. I was mostly worried that the axle size, or fender or brake caliper mounts may be different. Thanks for the help, Redbird!