jon haney

It is awesome. Pin the throttle, drop the hammer. Just make sure you're pointed straight down track, and bars are adjusted to make it go straight.

Update again. Found the accessories for the PC3.

OP edited to include compatible year models. 99 and 00 only.

I have a PC3 USB that I bought new for my 99 Bird. Worked great. Would this unit work okay on a 2001 Bird, California model?

Yes, plug and play, except that the tune it currently has is custom and likely a little rich for a stock engine. Someone here probably already has a good tune they could email to you. There is a male and female plug for each injector, a splice for the throttle position sensor, and a ground wire that goes to the battery. It still has velcro on the back that will help you mount the unit under the seat. Here is a link to more info. http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/products/powercommander/powercommander_iii_usb.aspx

Wow. I figured you guys would be fighting over the power commander. Surely, that price isn't too high. Remember, you can use a PC3 to improve gas mileage, as well.

For Sale: 1. Working PC3 for 99-00 year models, and later models w/o O2 sensor (I also have the box and accessories that came with it, including the software). $80 tyd in lower 48. 3. Dummy shafts for the counter-balancers. If you want to save a little weight, and gain 1 or 2 HP, this is a way to do it. Vibration didn't seem to increase that much, but I never rode a long way either. You pay shipping, and they're yours. 4. I also have a 15T Sunstar front sprocket. Has a little bit of wear, but still plenty of life left. Can get pic, if need be.

Brake cleaner is fine, but make sure you blow out all the holes and such with compressed air right away for the reasons Oscar mentioned.

Sorry to steal your thunder, Slapper. Couldn't wait any longer for you to reply.

What! What's wrong with EBC. Don't they know that the BlackBird is a finely honed track weapon. How dare they not offer race-only pads for it.

I'm going to go with a "1", at least to start with. Clearly Tomek didn't like it that you even posted in his thread at all, so he automatically took offense to anything you said. Why he didn't just put you back on ignore is the baffling question to me.

And this "motorcycle" thread was going so well. 😢

Wow! Didn't see the spur on the chain. Hard to believe the chain didn't completely break. Extra noise might have been hard to notice. Especially if the bike has a loud exhaust.

That's the cause of the bearing failure, but what caused the cam chain guides to shred? I've seen broken ones, but never shredded. What motor is that?

To much nitrous? Very low, or missing coolant?

Wait. Is that piston a little more "domed" than normal?

In a world filled with ignorance and idiocy about mechanical things, the true cause could be almost anything. Assuming this is not one of your personal bikes, I'm going to go with "Too long of a wheelie with not enough oil in the crankcase".

LOL. Thanks. That explains why the pins on that plug are so tiny. ALSO, pretty sure you make (a lot) more money than me.

With a special charger I bought from Ballistic. It has two clips for positive and negative posts, plus a special plug for the balance part. This special port is on the top of the battery in between the posts. Mine had a black vinyl cap over it. You were probably wanting the electrical engineer's explanation, but I'll have to leave that to someone who makes more money than me.

I have had two Ballistic batteries and one Shorei. Can't say one is better than the other, but the Ballistic was a better fit in the Bird, IMO. What I recommend is to look up whatever size battery the manufacturer recommends for the bike and buy the next size bigger. An 8-cell Ballistic will start my Bird fairly easy in warm weather. When it gets cold, you may have to turn the key on and wait awhile before it will crank fast enough to start. The 12-cell version will spin it like it's 24 volt. The 18Ah Shorei is in my Triumph. Now that I think about it, it did not seem to have as much oomph as the 12-cell Ballistic. I believe amp/hours were about equal between them. Hope this helps, and good luck.

Thank you, Oscar. I just have a Haynes manual. Was thinking of looking through the online version for that diagram. Gotta really look close to find the by-pass on the cooler half of the pump.

Just took a closer look, and there are two rotors. The first one appears to go directly to the cooler with no relief valve. After the cooler, the oil goes into the outlet side of the second pump and I guess is combined with the second pump's output. If the cooler line gets plugged, where does that oil go? The pump appears to be undamaged. WTF. Even if there is an internal by-pass for the pump, does that mean I've been pumping half volume to the engine all these years? Maybe it by-passes to the other pump? There has to be an explanation. I'm not that lucky. Stan, where are you?

At worst, I would think the extra oil would just run over the relief valve, robbing HP and further heating the oil. Since the Bird only has a single rotor oil pump, I'm assuming there is an internal orifice that limits the amount of oil that can go to the cooler, and the rest goes to the engine. If all oil goes through the cooler before it goes to the engine, this thread would be 8 years old by now, and would likely had to rebuild an engine. Basically, I'm replacing the trans on the Drag-Bird to a stock unit, and re-installing the balancer shafts. As I'm cleaning the lower case half, I pop out the seals (or so I thought) for the oil cooler lines. Then I remember there were already o-rings on the tubes. What I pulled out was a couple of top-hat style rubber plugs like you might use to keep out dirt and debris, while you do other stuff. Both plugs are completely intact, and the cooler line connections never leaked. Being a race bike, I never ran it long enough to over heat the oil. Crank bearings (factory original) look fantastic. IDK

What would happen if you removed the oil cooler from a 99 Bird, and just blocked the ports on the engine cases? No by-pass, just blocked, and no other modifications. Aside from higher oil temps, what else would or should happen in the engine? Yes, it appears I have tried this, accidentally. I'll fill in the details of this, um, um, accident, once I hear some responses. 🙄

Quit your whining. I paid you $20 for it. 😘