SwampNut

I've always just stuck the fresh battery in the bike and rode away. Dry-charged batteries seems to stay charged until you add the acid.

Buy the stuff on a credit card with extended warranty protection. Call them when it fails. Done. But like Dave said, there are kits to add a valve to the "unserviceable" systems.

Alright, let's see if I can help with some sense here. Cameras need a power source, and a connection to transmit video, unless they will only record locally. The connection was a coax cable with the older camera systems (analog video) and is now ethernet or wifi for new digital (IP) cameras. You can have an Network Video Recorder (NVR) recording your IP cameras, or your analog cameras if it has analog inputs. Those are pretty outdated though. The NVR can be just software (I run it on my desktop), a physical box with NVR software, or internet ("cloud") based. Wired IP cameras can be fed with Power over Ethernet (PoE), or with local power. Wireless cameras obviously must have local power. PoE power comes from a network switch, which you need anyway to connect wired IP cameras. Not all switches support PoE, so you have to buy one that does. Cameras come in a wide variety of resolutions and aspect ratios. They also have a wide variety of lenses so you need to consider that. I love a wide lens with wide aspect ratio for the stairs over my one massive room as it covers something like 130 degrees across, but I don't need as much vertical. It's a 5k camera so you can do virtual zoom if needed, and have enough resolution. But at the front door I need good vertical coverage to see the whole space and a whole human. Both are wide-ish angle. For the front hallway, I don't need much for wide angle or even high resolution. A lot of the "systems" that you see are just a PoE switch, cameras, and the NVR software loaded on a little box. All stuff you *could* do yourself, but if you're not already technically proficient you probably don't want to. If you have any use for a NAS, then you can get something like a Synology and it comes with NVR built in. So you can store your own files there, and also have it be the NVR. No tech knowledge needed. The Wyze camera are super cheap and limited, but most people seem to be happy with them.

23andme.com/redeem Code 1: REPG2S Code 2: REPI6P Post up if you use one, so others know.

WTF! Ok, let me come up with a rational explanation of how these systems work, that will make sense for everyone, and that I can type in two paragraphs. I'll do that later today.

The bigger one is 2x faster, so it might be better for booting really. I'll send them though.

Almost that simple. Load the Wyze app on your phone, fire up the camera. Press the setup buttons. When the voice says "scan code" point the camera at the QR code on the phone screen. It will ask for your wifi password, then connect the camera to wifi. Then you can use the Wyze app to view the camera. You do need to go into the app and tell it to record to the card. From then on it just sits there doing it. I hacked mine to run open-source software, and to connect to my NVR. That was actually super easy too. So I don't record locally and can't tell you an exact amount you can record locally, but it will be somewhere upwards of 20-30 hours of recordings. I've had two mounted on the back patio for several years. Eaves could be less coverage. There are some case options that do make them weather tight, and they are cheap. I have a couple, but haven't used them yet. I think it was like $10 for two. There is local recording, and cloud recording of short clips. Local recording is as long as you need. Cloud is 7 seconds on a free account, and longer on a paid account.

I can send you a 250, or a 64, or both. They are normal 3.5" SATA form.

I would avoid the major brands like Netgear, Ring, Nest, and the like. Overpriced, and geared around milking you for their extra services. Wyze is fucking cheap, with cheap and free cloud storage options, plus the ability to store on a local card. So you can buy a $20 Wyze camera, $8 SD card, and you're recording. Done. The cameras take 5v USB power and come with a 120v to USB adapter, so you have options. There is no central storage server, which is both good and bad, depending on specific circumstances. I think it's fine for what you want.

That's easy to answer. As a conservative, then I would expect you explained it to them?

Do you allow democrats to buy these so they can wipe their asses during this fake pandemic they created?

I've often noticed temps climb on all sorts of vehicles after high speed or high load (towing), then going to idle. I agree on thermostat and cap, also would add possibly old/dirty coolant, oxidation in the system, basically routine cooling system stuff. Also, what is your coolant type/mix ratio?

Agreed.

Now that I would happily pay shipping to take off your hands!

Yes, totally useless. I can mostly live with the 512 in the laptop, but the main machine has 1TB of internal NVMe and 2TB external SSD. I don't have a lot in stored music since I can stream anything, but just photos makes up around 150 GB and constantly growing.

I guess I'll pile on here and mention that I have a shitload of RAM, small SSDs (64-240GB), and various parts like that to go away. I was just actually going through drawers of stuff to give/throw away. Post up if you have uses for small SATA SSDs, memory, etc.

There's a ton of misunderstanding about LEDs here, propagated by shady sales tactics and uninformed sellers. So I'll just give LED 101 here... LEDs are oddly behaving compound semiconductors with a strict forward bias current and voltage. A raw LED has to be fed with precisely controlled current. Meaning that what we call a consumer-usable LED module is a control circuit plus an LED. An LED is always MUCH cooler than a incandescent light of the same output. The control circuit however adds heat/waste, and how much varies by its quality. A good control circuit loses around 5-10% of the power to heat, a shitty one can easily be wasting as much as the LED itself. For any given light output, the LED chip itself uses 1/9th the power, and generates even less heat fractionally. But we have the control circuit, packaging, and possibly a filter chemical, so the normal actual real-word difference for household bulbs is that 9-10w = 60w. Still fucking great. For auto bulbs I've seen slightly better results except with truly shitty Chinese $1 crap. There really aren't white LEDs. Most are blue LEDs packaged with yellow phosphor, which is the direct complement of blue, therefore giving us pseudo white. BUT! It's not white like a normal bulb, or daylight. Our eyes see it as white, but while light has the entire spectrum in it normally. White LEDs have ONLY the spectral composition needed to make us perceive white. This is why cheap white LEDs have a green cast to them, especially when looking straight at the LED, or holding bright white paper (93 or higher). This all results in rules such as not using a filter. If you put a red filter in front of a normal white LED, you get nearly nothing. Filters don't convert light, they block out the spectral components that are not that color. Well, there is nearly no red spectrum in a typical white LED. Some white LEDs are actually just packaged RGB (three LEDs), but that's more expensive and can cause odd refractions. Also you still shouldn't use them with a color lens. They produce three specific colors only, not a spectrum, and a lens would block two of the three. It's hard to imagine any situation where a similar brightness of LED could be hotter than a normal bulb. I'd like to say "impossible" but I've only studied LEDs a little bit. Most people, however, go for more light and could possibly have a heat issue then. Heat is the killer of LEDs. They will last "forever" if you could remove all the heat. There's always a heat sink/life tradeoff. For a colored lens, use the same-color LED. Nearly all of its energy will pass. Not only are LEDs brighter, a bulb loses all of the non-matching energy, while the LED will pass most of the energy through the filter. Specifically on those Anourney bulbs with W5W, who knows what the Chinese type out. They sure don't. If those were 5w they'd be as bright as a household 40-50w. More likely they are 5w equivalent, which as a total guess, seems reasonable for dash bulbs.

It's not a direct translation. The English was "here's a summary" while the Spanish was more detailed. It's been interesting to watch the show Money Heist in Spanish, with the subtitles. All my life I'd never really thought about how some things translate so poorly. And that Spanish overall seems to have more words but spoken faster, so in the show she has constant pauses to let the subtitles catch up. They did a great job on it.

You didn't quite catch what we were saying. There is a wax-filled capsule that automatically opens the throttle when cold. As the engine warms up, it slowly allows the throttle to close. Cold engines need more throttle and a richer mixture. When it's working well, you don't notice this because it works at the same rate as the change in temp-based idle speed. My idle starts normal when cold, then drops a lot as the throttle closes too soon. Yours seems to be doing the opposite. I don't recall what it takes to remove that part, but if not hard, I'd start by doing that and see if the problem stops.

+1 on what Jon said. Mine is failing in the other direction, idle drops really low (doesn't stall). It's a shit design like the CCT. Vacuum leak can cause some erratic idle, but I don't think it can send it up that high on this vehicle.

Yes, but the rest of us take that well. It's what makes us all men and brothers. You give your best friends the most shit. You should see my best friend talk about me sinking a Jeep, and me about always fucking up GFCI installs (he does commercial work with no GFCIs, always gets confused with them.

Nah, you asked a question that belongs here. Not your fault someone refuses to let go of the past and holds it against you.

Dude, there is no fucking way any human can remember all the vehicles you've had.

I regret my part in it, for the annoyance it creates for others.

+1 +2