SwampNut

They've been solid for me, but never used for starting current.

Well sure, there are much better ways to deal with the ASS feature, but I'm not sure how that determines good/bad.

No criticism, just putting the steering damper on my head and having a laugh.

What...the...fuck. Zero moment. Ok.

Definitely a big part of why government/pharma (same thing) are trying to stop their use. This week, someone who has not seen Marty in years told him that he looks like he hasn't aged at all. He's using the GHK/BPC/TB thing for joints which has a side effect of major skin improvements, and a GLP-1.

Exactly. There's nothing about this that would limit the results. There are a few reasons some things are tested on HIV sufferers and result in useful things for everyone. Another is Tesamorelin, which Moriah uses for perimenopause. But officially it's an HIV drug. And Viagra/Cialis are heart/circulatory drugs.

Want to know how I know you didn't actually read the link? The answer is "almost surely." Broader Implications and Future Directions While the study focused specifically on people with HIV-associated lipohypertrophySearch disease, the biological pathways affected by semaglutideSearch drug aren't unique to this condition. "Therefore, it is plausible that similar effects on epigenetic ageing could be observed in other populations," Dwaraka explained, suggesting the anti-aging benefits could extend to the general population.

https://trial.medpath.com/news/5c43f09ebb6d0f8e/ozempic-shows-anti-aging-effects-in-first-clinical-trial-reversing-biological-age-by-3-1-years The diabetes drug OzempicView drug details has demonstrated remarkable anti-aging effects in the first clinical trial to directly measure its impact on biological aging, with participants becoming an average of 3.1 years biologically younger after 32 weeks of treatment. The findings provide the strongest evidence yet that GLP-1 drugs like semaglutideSearch drug may offer benefits far beyond their established roles in diabetes management and weight loss.

I generally discuss things from an end goal perspective, with the reason for the end goal. "Why do you want to transform this hotel into X class and how do we get there?" This thread started with just a picture of a shitty part with no reason for it to be used. I had to surmise that it was related to your past questions about battery storage. If you care to engage in a solutions-focused discussion...what is your true, root goal here? Why?

WTF.

Yes, and I still have no idea what you want to accomplish.

I have no idea what you are trying to do. Make it not start? I thought you just wanted to remove the primary battery for...reasons.

I last rode a bike with one around 2002 or so, it was ultra garbage then.

JC Whitney’s sourcing of products changed over time: Early Years (1950s to 1970s): Most “hard parts” (mechanical parts like alternators, brakes, engine parts) sold by JC Whitney were American made or even genuine OEM stock. There are multiple mentions from longtime customers about receiving parts in original GM or other American manufacturer boxes, simply wrapped in plain brown paper from JC Whitney. They also sold discontinued OEM American parts cheap. Accessories and Gadgets (1980s onward): As the catalog shifted more toward affordable accessories and novelty items, JC Whitney increasingly sourced inexpensive products—especially accessories and “gimmicks”—from overseas, including China. By the late 1980s and 1990s, “an increasingly chintzy assortment of cheap (but profitable) Chinese-made accessories” made up much of their non-hard-parts catalog. Margins were high, but quality could sometimes be variable. Summary: Vintage hard parts and many core replacement components: American made, OEM, or high-quality domestic. Many accessories and gadgets post-1980s: Chinese made (imported and lower cost). If you got a battery switch or a major mechanical component from JC Whitney prior to the 1980s, it was likely American made or even OEM. If it was a "gadget" or accessory from the 1980s and beyond, it probably came from China or another low-cost country.

The JC Whitney catalog, probably $3. But the keys were universal.

All these years with so many vehicles, so many tires...no idea... Looking back now, this started as a vibration at 75-80 MPH. Then I had a wobble around 35-45. I figured it was a balance issue, as it was pretty light, or potentially that TSB on the steering wheel wobble. I was planning to go for a rotation and re-balance at Discount, where I got the tires. Nitto Grappler Recon, stock size, and 116 load range. Yesterday within a few miles, it quickly progressed from that to this... So I knew something was seriously wrong. At first I didn't think a separation could develop that quickly in a situation that was not super stressful to the tires. I was doing errands, lots of highway and some street, no hard acceleration, but it is damn hot here. I tried to find a bulge, but didn't, and it's hard to diagnose by myself since I have to move the vehicle over and over. Checked lugs, inspected obvious suspension parts, nothing. So I went to a very close-by Discount Tire. The counter guy said something I'd never heard before, and I've been around a lot of vehicles and tires... When he saw the video, he said, "I see it's pulling right, so it's the front right tire." Huh...he said that separations do cause a pull. And that goes along with me thinking lately...why is my truck suddenly wanting to veer right when in the past it's been tracking straight hands-free for even a mile? I had been putting off, and dreading, the conversation with Rivian about doing an alignment. Troubleshooting and gathering symptom data is a very significant part of my job. It's a good reminder that while often, the obvious problem is not the answer, many times it actually is. This problem was so insidious though, the type that doesn't trigger your brain to make a quick correlation. Also I'd done a few off road trips and had a marginal fear I may have bent something. So after three stops and 45 minutes of parking lot troubleshooting, the obvious problem was...obvious... $75 later I will have a new tire today, they had to order it in which is fast with them. Another reminder why I use DT almost exclusively.

Canadian bacon and pineapple, I bet.

Can't wait for the new post about the cable rubbing and the solution is to cut off a fucking zip-tie.

Don't add this garbage to your Jeep. Disconnect the battery and bring it inside. Stop trying to add this new problem. I have them for RVs and boats because I'm just never going to pull the batteries.

Lucky you, there's no way you could stomach reading that.

I'm not sure what is needed for a car. @superhawk996 this should be fine for his starting current right? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T288VN8?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_7&th=1

D207 is my only memorable experience, and they are fucking garbage. Also they got a police helicopter called out on my friend and months of criminal court proceedings.

I've used a few of those. They all had to be separated. Not a single one cut power properly without separating them. Even worse, what you end up with is unstable voltage/current and arcing that can quickly damage the car. These things are awful, and I've completely stopped using them. I put a real disconnect switch on the RV and will just never use these things again. You can lean on the claim that they SHOULD disconnect without separation, but good luck.

Right, it's just a bolt, and to cut power you separate the two pieces. The bolt holds them together. You ALSO need to get rid of that fuse that basically bridges the connection.