SwampNut

I was running 147-149 with ram air pressurized to about 120 MPH on my stocker, so that all makes sense. Stupid me, forgot to ask them to make runs with no ram air.

The BT-0xx series are dual-compound, as well as all of the Avon Azaro series. The Azaro goes a step further with what they call variable belts. The carcass belts are tighter in the center to reduce flex (which equals wear and heat) while the sides of the tire are softer for a larger patch and more heat (which increases traction and wear).

Mobil 1 15w50 is motorcycle-safe. I buy the large jug at Wal-Mart for $17.88. You can also buy the Purolator One oil filters there for about $3, which is widely known as one of the best filters ever made. I think it's actually sold under the Wal-Mart name. The one for the RX-7 is a perfect fit, but longer with more filtering material (I haven't used these yet, my brother has been using them for years). I've been a Mobil 1 user for 15 years. Last bike went 130k miles on M1 before I sold it still running fine.

I haven't tried the Pilot Road. I'm not going to buy them, as they are still not dual-compound and I'm sold on that. Using the bike for commuting and long rides means flat-spotting is a real issue. License plate...long story, but it's from the Turks & Caicos islands. I'm one of the constitutionalist militia whackjob nutcases that won't have anything to do with any government. Don't have a US driver's license either.

YES! First off, I did not like the AV35 at all. I ran the AV36 with an AV39. On the XX, the 35 was a bit...well, it wasn't as stable nor did it turn in as neutrally. The AV45/46 are giving me more mileage AND are stickier. Out of all the tires I've put on this thing (47k miles, been a few), these are my clear favorites for handling.

I forgot you were doing engine mods. I was thinking stocker, where you'd actually lose top speed.

There are some DNS issues on some peoples' networks, this sounds like the same problem. It's a setting they chose to make which holds old info longer than I specify. I can't do anything about it. Let me know if the issue returns.

The .108 address is the old one. Your DNS is fucked up. I saw that with the DNS at Amex also; holding old entries way too long. Sorry, nothing I can do. But you could set up your machine to use my DNS instead. 64.5.51.19

What is the IP address it's resolving to?

It is an emissions-related lean fuel condition.

Which is why I use the NEP. It flicks on/off instantly. And I do use it in the city, as well as in highway traffic where you end up going on/off every minute. The VistaCruise is not even worth talking about. Total crap.

:shock: Um, you know that old joke where the guy tells the doc, "When I do this, it hurts." Doc says... "Don't do that!"

That is no longer valid. I changed the main link, but you bookmarked a page-specific URL which I can't change. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/webmail (or .net or .com)

Type this command at a DOS prompt: ping www.cbr1100xx.org What IP address does it try to send to? Now type: ipconfig /flushdns Then the ping command again, and what is the IP now?

Did you buy the tire and take it to the shop, or did you order it via the shop? If you bought it at the shop, they should just warranty it altogether. It's part of the cost of doing business, and why they charge more money than mail order. If you ordered it yourself, well, that's part of the risk of saving money...

Aftermarket? Why? I really don't understand why anyone would change them. Hell yes, they are on there. Otherwise the first indication would be the cans touching, and then it might be too late. Now I touch a peg, know where I am, and the leading edge of the can will touch lightly on a bump. I try to avoid that though, as it's a sign of impending doom. It really is stupid actually. I've heard other people say that, but never touched the fairing. Different riding style and position? I do have the stiffer springs in the forks, are yours stock? They would allows the front to compress a lot more.

I've ridden other bikes with the M1 (Moto Guzzi Scurra, MV Agusta F4s, Hayabusa). They are great tires also, just don't have the mileage of the Avons. The guy who owns the Scurra and MV won't run them again because of that. Even on a light/low-power bike like the Scurra I think he said he wasn't expecting to get 4k on the rear. The handling is not all that different from the Avons; light, neutral. I could not really test traction limits on someone else's bike.

I have just over 4k on the tire now, and I would call it "half used." Amazing. Meanwhile I've also put down the exhaust canisters easily and they handle so nicely. The front tire has over 5k and looks like it is about half done also. I try to minimize front tire wear by keeping it in the air, however.

But that's not what we're talking about. We're talking about synchronizing the throttle body butterfly valves. Totally different. The starter valves are out of play once the bike warms up even just a little bit.

Keith, I don't think I'd do it. You'd be way too stiff on the rebound for the stock springs, so the forks would pump down and screw up the geometry over a sequence of bumps, possibly bottom out in a turn (which would really fuck you up). I'd keep the stock oil with the stock springs.

TBR has a bad attitude. They blame the customer for everything first, then make you prove they sent the wrong part or it was incorrectly made. The only reason I'd ever do business with them is to get the X-Metal cans for a Ti model (perfect match). Otherwise just buy from one of the easier-to-deal with vendors.

Don't be; it works. It keeps the bright areas shaded and the instruments/mirrors unshaded. Once I got past THINKING that was bad, I realized it's perfect. I was a little peeved at first until I actually used it for a while.

That's what Honda says, I don't know what they did that's so special. The screws are even sealed from the factory. The dealer manuals say "no service" and there are no TSB's on doing it. I measured vacuum on mine at around 40k miles and it was perfectly even. I have yet to ride a XX that does not have this problem. You can minimize it with tight cables, tight chain, and a slightly higher idle, but it is there. I've had this argument a few times--guys swear THEIR bike doesn't do it, but it does.

NEP CC-3 ($20) for ease of use, Throttlemeister ($100) for looks. I find the Throttlemeister horribly annoying because I use the lock very frequently and just want the on-off of the NEP. See the mods section of the site for photos.

You'll like it a lot when you crash face-first and this feature keeps it from flipping up. A friend of mine is still getting reconstructive surgeries from her generic Arai moving up enough to allow a car mirror to pulverize her jaw. Not going to happen in the Schuberth. You also get used to the sun shade. I wanted it lower and nearly made one myself, but then after a while I got used to it.