SwampNut

You're riding too slow.

Yup. Only screen I've seen that actually took that into account.

Any girl worth dating will want to ride with you then do it on a rock somewhere in the twisties behind a tree.

The "OEM" chain is just a DID 530ZVM, so no difference in ordering "stock" or the "aftermarket" chain there.

Did this happen right after the plugs and other service? Have you checked the oil level (too much will rob power, had a dealer do that to me)? The "idle up the hill thing" is too vague to use as a symptom, but the gas mileage tells a lot.

All model years need that area covered. That was one of my issues with the Cheetah screen; had to be painted to cover that area.

What's the weight on the Ohlins spring, and how long is the free length?

I have been using AFAM front sprockets for most of the bike's life. I couldn't tell the difference in noise. Still using OEM rear, and they last forever so they don't need to be changed with each chain.

Where's the option for "Made your own to go in the modified Beetle Bags?" I had shortened mine before I got the bags. See photos & details in the mods section of the site.

Don't drop a link just for one tooth up front--it won't fit. Remember that "a link" is actually quite big since you end up removing a center piece and a set of sideplates. As far as the rear sprocket--it is extremely tough and doesn't need to be changed every time. I know this is counter to everything we're always told, but at 22k my first sprocket had zero visible wear. I changed it anyway, since I had bought one, but kept it and will re-use it. The second one has 25k now with no wear.

Excellent! I'm at around the same weight loss now also. Amazing change, isn't it?

Get new well nuts. Trust me on that one. It takes much longer to fight with those than to do any other part of the change. Write off the old ones.

I did it around 44k miles. I'm not sure if it "needed" to be done. I checked it and it was slightly off the perfect setting in the manual, but they don't give a range of accepted tolerance for me to know how significantly it was off. You need patience and time for this. First off finding the damn things is a bitch. Then you definitely don't want to fuck this up as it would be costly. Erring slightly loose is much better than slightly tight, BTW.

I see QOTW material.

Everyone should be drinking a gallon a day, but even more important on a diet like this. As far as a day to start, I'd probably say Thursday night/Friday morning. Everyone responds differently--it really sacked me since I was such a sugar addict. But the tired and sluggish feeling will start quickly, since sugar has such a very short life in your blood. That's also why this way of eating eliminates those sleepy times during the day--fat/protein will stay level in your blood a long time, while sugar spikes and dips. If your body depends on sugar, it will spike and dip along with it (and your brain too).

Riiiiight... Coincidentally, you usually power-save when there are flashing blue and red lights quickly disappearing in your mirrors...

Overheat = Coolant overflowing, engine suffering damage If that is not happening, you're not overheating. The XX runs hot. It's a byproduct of a lot of motor in a small space, headers close to the radiator, and lots of plastic covering. You can significantly lower temperatures with Waterwetter. If you don't have to worry about freezing in your area, just remove all the coolant and replace it with 20% silica-free coolant and distilled water, then add 4 ounces of Waterwetter. This will reduce engine temps by 10 degrees or more typically. If you do need freeze protection, then use as much coolant/anti-freeze as required for your temps.

Did you replace the sealing crush washer on the bolt? It may need to be replaced.

Nobody has ever reported NEEDING to adjust the valves. Some people have said they checked them and one or two were within range but not centered in the range, but I have never heard of one out of range. I've got 47k on mine and have not checked them yet. I'm thinking I'll do it out of paranoia for the 48k service, but I know I'm just going to be pissed I wasted my time. A friend who works for a fairly large Honda dealer says they have never, not once, opened the valve shim box.

I have to agree with that. Any synthetic these days is going to be great. I use the extended change interval that sythetics allow, and change it every 6-7k. Always worked well for me. Don't know, since I haven't tried it yet. It's possible it may not work at all. Certainly it was TOO easy to fit the Honda filter on my RX-7, which is how I noticed my error finally. I never seem to have an RX-7 filter around when I change the bike's oil.

I've been using the K&N filters made for the XX. I do trades with a local bike shop so I have a bunch of parts stock and trade credit. I'll end up using the RX-7 filter when that runs out. I discovered the RX-7 filter thing by accident. I have an RX-7, and mixed up the filters one day...

Everything you mentioned is out--sandwich (bread), fruit, yoburt, chips. Breakfast is easy if you cook, because most of the classic breakfast foods are fine. Figure this--if it's animal-related (dairy/meat/egg) it is probably fine unless sweetened (yogurt). Lunches can be non-bread sandwiches--wrap meats in slices of cheese, roll up, eat. Salads are great but watch for sweetened dressings (French, some Ranch, Catalina, some name-brand Italian even). This is the important thing: Get past the "hump" as fast as possible by keeping carbs ultra-low. Any cheating will just make you feel worse. And you will probably feel like ass for several days straight as you kick the sugar addiction. Once you get past that though, you'll feel so much better and more energetic than ever. For your first low-carb shopping trip, set aside two hours--seriously. Go through the store and read packages everywhere. Be creative; look at stuff you don't normally use. Read it all. Learn about carbs and sugars. Note that fiber subtracts carbs (IE, 20g carb & 15g fiber = 5 net carbs). If you look in the diet section or nutrition bars, you will see things like "sugar alcohols" and ingredients like "maltitol" that have no effective sugar but by law get counted as carbs--subtract those.

Both the Mobil 1 and the Rotella have a great--no, PERFECT--history with all the serious high-mileage guys. Either will serve you just fine. There are probably hundreds of thousands of BMW guys using one or the other, since they value high miles between service. My brother has been using Rotella for years since he's a big-rig mechanic and has it around. He uses the Wal-Mart filters and Rotell exclusively on all his bikes, customers' bikes, friends' bikes... Peace of mind...I'd agree if there was any question at all. But both of those oils are so well-proven by high-mileage riders. My last bike, as I said, was sold with 130k miles, all on Mobil one since about 10k. Never had an engine issue, sold it running fine.

I was running 147-149 with ram air pressurized to about 120 MPH on my stocker, so that all makes sense. Stupid me, forgot to ask them to make runs with no ram air.

The BT-0xx series are dual-compound, as well as all of the Avon Azaro series. The Azaro goes a step further with what they call variable belts. The carcass belts are tighter in the center to reduce flex (which equals wear and heat) while the sides of the tire are softer for a larger patch and more heat (which increases traction and wear).