SwampNut

Supposedly 6mm bolts. When they felt wrong going into the bike, I checked one on my hardened steel thread pitch gauges, and this is the result. Then holding them up to a normal bolt, you can see that over the length of the screw, the pitch is just a tiny bit off. WTF. Also it's truly Chinesium shit metal, soft as aluminum.

In one extreme case I got flexible exhaust tubing and had around a 1-foot "snorkel" up the side. You just need to find the actual flowing air, not the back pressure area.

Well that's hot.

With stinky vehicles in the past I've found that just a few inches of exhaust extension can make a huge difference. I've also used generic foam seals on some vehicles, there are a LOT of shapes out there. I can't remember what search I've done to find a page full of shapes to pick from. https://www.google.com/search?q=epdm+door+seal&client=safari&sca_esv=598813290&rls=en&sxsrf=ACQVn09pzTybRL-2S_dV0z80i68kZ7CGtw%3A1705418775252&ei=F6CmZcP6Dt7AkPIPrsOk4A4&ved=0ahUKEwiD4qqCnOKDAxVeIEQIHa4hCewQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=epdm+door+seal&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiDmVwZG0gZG9vciBzZWFsMgsQABiABBiKBRiRAjIGEAAYFhgeMggQABgWGB4YDzIIEAAYFhgeGA8yBhAAGBYYHjIGEAAYFhgeMggQABgWGB4YDzIGEAAYFhgeMggQABgWGB4YDzILEAAYgAQYigUYhgNImx1QkBBY0xtwAngBkAEAmAF_oAH-B6oBAzIuN7gBA8gBAPgBAcICChAAGEcY1gQYsAPCAg0QABiABBiKBRhDGLADwgIFEAAYgATiAwQYACBBiAYBkAYK&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Depends. The closest one is four crow miles, but a lot farther in legal miles. I have to go WAY around a preserve to get there. The entrance is off 303. Next ones, either White Tank or the area around the lake, is quite a bit more down some highways with fast traffic (74, 303, Sun Valley Parkway). Around 30-40 minutes. I'm just not comfortable with doing it on low tires, and won't. Particularly when it starts to heat up. Oh, and these are tubed tires, they will heat up a lot. Anyway, logic aside, I'll never feel comfortable doing it, and this is about having fun. Yeah, near all of the sales blurbs are useless bullshit. The one I bought had some specific numbers on the time to get a sport bike tire from 0-30, and that was useful (and now I forgot the number, but not bad). One said it could air up tires fast because it had a "high performance chip." WTF All of the add-on pack options were much larger than the dedicated units. And almost as expensive. So now...starting pressures. I'm thinking 30f 33r for street and 13/13 dirt.

I have those on the bicycles, cost adds up fast, you have to carry a bunch for a motorcycle. The Airmoto site is a scam. Did you read the site? This is why I was asking for experiences; everything is astroturfed bullshit. Anyway, I bought the exact same unit for half the price without the name on it and a longer warranty. I put the picture from Airmoto into image search, and it showed me all of the sources of the same generic Chinese unit. Amazon had the second best price and best delivery. It's the only compressor with high reviews which Fakespot rates as an A.

I have a few, no thanks.

That's the big question. I think if I don't like it, what I've done will make it a super easy, profitable sale. And I've enjoyed wrenching on it, for sure. Things I can do in a closed heated garage. Maybe it's a project for every winter. I did resist some of the higher dollar upgrades like the real charging system, and replacing the worn items that cost a lot like the case covers. If I like it, then yeah.

Hah, well, there's the problem. What doesn't suck? I have a plug-in Stop & Go that is awesome. Their cordless is fucking garbage.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=motorcycle+rechargeable+air+compressor&i=automotive&crid=3P020Q6OUG21U&sprefix=motorcycle+rechargeable+air+compressor%2Cautomotive%2C133&ref=nb_sb_noss I use FakeSpot to let me know about fake reviews. Except now that EVERYONE is astroturfing, even good products have fake good reviews. So Fakespot lists them as F-grade, which is accurate, but the product is still perfectly fine. But vendors are all faking reviews to win. Sigh.

No, there are dozens with internal 18650/27 batteries or lipo flat packs. Monstrous. The difference between making it up a hill and not, by 50% at least. I've spent a lot of time on our local terrain on MTBs and motorcycles, there's simply no way you'd want to do anything more than a fire trail at street pressure. Local wisdom has us around 10-13 for motorcycles and I run 19-21 on MTB.

I'll be riding the XR to the trail, so I need to air down and back up. It has no useful electrical system so I need a compressor with its own battery. Shopping them is such a pain, with so much bullshit in every listing, reviews all over the place, and so many that look identical to others for 50% more or less. Anyone using one they recommend? Or hate?

LOL. I always have a drive to do the quickest possible thing to make it run. So I decided this one would be a psych game against my own nature and took it the other way. Of course, moderation is the key to failure, so I took it all the way. Final build video this week. Dirt ride when winter ends on Thursday. Well, maybe sooner. I need to make a decision on tires, they feel so awful on the street, but could be me forgetting how to ride true 100% dirt tires. Everything since the CR has been an enduro or ADV tire. They are "new" but I need to go see date codes. Oh, the highest rated enduro tires are RETARDED cheap. I think it looks fucking great. I wish I could do something about the seat. Someone needs to make a non-slippery vinyl treatment. Like an anti-ceramic that increases grip and still darkens it.

Oh, and the incorrect parts for R model versus the L took a funny turn. The actual need is one of each type on the R. The L takes two of the two-hole version. None of them take two of the one-hole version. So nobody seems to have the correct kit for either. You buy both kits for the R and toss one two-hole, and buy 2x two-hole for the L. WTF! The rear one was cracked through, and as soon as I put any pressure on the front brake loop, it broke. Translucent plastic doesn't like sun. The swingarm loop at the front was usable, it's hidden.

I'm not complaining that I can't make the emails stop, I can. I'm noting the sleazy tactics, that's all. I don't use that feature because I don't use iCloud mail, but Gmail also has solutions. It's not a problem whatsoever.

I learned it today, myself. I'm not a huge egg eater, but when made perfectly I do love them. I wanted to research the health aspects. Tak's wok method makes me want them more.

People with diabetes are more susceptible to the buildup of cholesterol AND statistically more likely to have high cholesterol. Meta studies show a clear correlation between cardiac events in people with diabetes and heart issues who eat a lot of eggs. Here is the first hit on a search, from Harvard Medical. I think that's a community college in Boston? A. People with diabetes are particularly vulnerable to any adverse effect from total or “bad” LDL cholesterol levels, and eggs do have a slight tendency to raise them both. A study from Harvard found an increased risk of heart disease among people with diabetes who ate one or more eggs a day. Still, cholesterol-rich foods like eggs (with the yolks) raise cholesterol levels far less than saturated fats in meat and full-fat dairy products. Is someone with diabetes, who has low levels of total cholesterol and LDL cholesterol, at risk from eating six eggs a week? I know of no good information on that. To be safe, I would suggest that your husband cut back to three eggs a week. He might also see whether he likes the products made with just egg whites; without the yolk, eggs don’t have any cholesterol.

Tak has taught me to leverage the wok in unexpected ways. Like making the perfect egg. I like it with fully cooked whites but not at all cooked yolks (I think what they call over medium or slightly less). I like a crispy white. Using a super hot non-stick wok with a tiny bit of oil sprayed on it is a reasonably healthy treat, on well toasted Dave's Killer Bread. 300 calories, high nutrition, low carbs/junk. The shape of the wok lets you get two eggs into a small oval very easily to fit the bread, and lets you crisp the bottom side without cooking the yolks. A little potassium chloride and black pepper tops it off. There is good evidence that a small number of eggs is good nutritionally. There's also very strong evidence that people with diabetes or heart conditions should not have more than 2-3 per week. This is a once a week treat for me. Some positive nutrition facts: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/proven-health-benefits-of-eggs#TOC_TITLE_HDR_2 A reasonable comparison: https://www.heart.org/en/news/2018/08/15/are-eggs-good-for-you-or-not

100%, they do.

It is also, most likely. Unless it's good 316, it's leaching a bunch of metals into your drinks. Just watched a video cast about that and aluminum cookware. We have polluted nearly 100% of the planet with nanoplastics, you can't avoid that either, like radiation. "Climate and environment are fine, just ignore them!"

Let's ask.... https://www.perplexity.ai/search/What-plasticizers-are-l24kRVxARAOSZNmmq8i9Uw?s=c#e7c3ccf5-0798-4e62-b532-b20021be7be7

This might why NBR is resistant to oil, yet readily takes in the wintergreen oil. What is the relative molar mass of Methyl salicylate compared to engine oil? The molar mass of Methyl salicylate is 152.15 g/mol 1 5 9 11 13 14 .Engine oil, on the other hand, is a complex mixture of various hydrocarbons and additives, and its molar mass can vary significantly depending on its specific composition. However, it's generally much higher than that of Methyl salicylate. For instance, the average molecular weight of Palm oil, a type of vegetable oil often used in engine oil formulations, varies from 810 to 855 grams per mole 6 .Therefore, the relative molar weight of Methyl salicylate is significantly less than that of engine oil.

What is the relative volatility of Methyl salicylate compared to engine oil? Methyl salicylate is a volatile compound, meaning it readily evaporates at room temperature[1][3][5][9][13]. Its volatility is one of the reasons it's used as a signaling molecule in plants[1][3][5][9][13]. However, the exact volatility of methyl salicylate in comparison to engine oil is not directly provided in the search results. Engine oil volatility is typically measured using the Noack Volatility Test, which determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service[2][4][6][8][10][12][14]. The more volatile an oil is, the higher its Noack volatility number. Therefore, a low Noack rating indicates a high-quality oil[12]. The oil volatility is defined as the amount of oil desorbed from the column at a temperature of 371 °C, relative to the total oil desorbed or relative to a known quantity of some internal standard[4]. While the exact volatility of methyl salicylate is not provided, it's known to be a highly volatile compound[1][3][5][9][13]. However, without specific data or a direct comparison, it's challenging to definitively state the relative volatility of methyl salicylate compared to engine oil. It's likely that methyl salicylate is more volatile than engine oil given its use in applications that require a high degree of volatility, but this would need to be confirmed with specific experimental data. Citations: [1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methyl_salicylate [2] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0040603189854747 [3] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6863746/ [4] https://resources.perkinelmer.com/lab-solutions/resources/docs/app_the-tga-noack-test-for-the-assessment-of-engine-oil-volatility.pdf [5] https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fnut.2022.1018534 [6] https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s41104-022-00102-y [7] https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Methyl-Salicylate [8] https://www.savantgroup.com/media/SAE-961227-A-Laboratory-Method-for-Measuring-Bulk-Volatility-of-Engine-Oils-Comparative-Results-1996.pdf [9] https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00468-021-02191-y [10] http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0040603189854747/pdf?md5=89a066237245834d6a1486600a08f9d9&pid=1-s2.0-0040603189854747-main.pdf [11] https://health.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2022-08/sccs_o_255.pdf [12] https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/lower-noack-better-oil.211659/ [13] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S095656632201048X [14] https://www.savantgroup.com/media/Tribotest-Journal-June-2000-Analysis-of-Engine-Oil-and-Phos-Volatility.pdf [15] https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/tr/pdf/ADA568827.pdf [16] https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/892159/

Alcohol is the most universal of solvents and a great carrier for so many things. I wouldn't doubt that it helps, but not sure it's totally necessary. Also just like adding water to whisky, it may break some molecular bonds to increase how it reacts to the rubber. Bottom line-dunno. Perplexity AI explains it ok, not great: The search results do not provide a direct explanation of how methyl salicylate binds to nitrile butadiene rubber (NBR). However, we can infer from the general principles of chemistry and the nature of the materials involved how such binding might occur.Methyl salicylate is an organic compound with a structure that includes both a benzene ring and an ester group. Nitrile butadiene rubber is a synthetic rubber copolymer of acrylonitrile and butadiene. The interaction between methyl salicylate and NBR is likely to be a physical process rather than a chemical reaction.The binding could be due to the following factors: Solubility and Swelling: Methyl salicylate may act as a solvent for the NBR, causing the rubber to swell as the molecules of methyl salicylate intercalate between the polymer chains of the rubber. This can temporarily improve the flexibility and other mechanical properties of the rubber 3 . Secondary Bonding: There could be secondary bonding interactions such as van der Waals forces or dipole-dipole interactions between the polar groups in methyl salicylate and the polar nitrile groups in the NBR 2 5 . Compatibility: The chemical compatibility charts and resistance guides for various rubber materials, including NBR, suggest that certain chemicals can have little to no effect on the rubber, while others can cause degradation or swelling 1 3 4 6 7 . Although these charts do not specifically mention methyl salicylate, they indicate that the compatibility of a chemical with NBR depends on the chemical structure and the resistance of the rubber to that structure. In summary, while the exact mechanism of binding is not detailed in the search results, it is likely that methyl salicylate interacts with NBR through a combination of solubility, swelling, and secondary bonding forces. This interaction can temporarily modify the properties of the rubber, which may be beneficial in certain applications.

Yes! Actually did find a crack when I was going over the "final" check list, and also it's not shiny red aluminum. So the fronts and rears are being replaced. What's another $25 now... If the photos are accurate, the other retarded thing about them not knowing which is which...quantity. The L takes two of the two-screw clamps, so those packages show photos of two. But they fit the R. And my package for the R contained one clamp...for the L. How can I be the first person to tell them? Reminds me of... At least red anodized hardware is dirt cheap compared to burnt blue Ti. Oh yeah, I removed a brake disk bolt to see about installing the speed sensor magnet thing, and found it was mildly chingered up. WTF! So I got some of those in red stainless also.