SwampNut

Who the fuck shaves in the middle of a ride? What kind of happy-ass pussy bullshit is that?

That's the thing about food-grade grease; works for everything. And if you use it on a road-side sheep, the animal control people can't get you for cruelty since you're just lubing your food. Works for wheel bearings or whatever.

Jeezus Christ, you fuckin' amateurs. Don't forget the rubber chicken, tube of food-grade grease, and your towel. Don't forget to bring a towel.

Goddamn it, I forgot to order the bits and I need to drill a couple dozen holes in steel today. Shit. They're all one size so maybe I can find one place open that has a decent bit in stock.

I once used matched laminate on doors to make them look like wood. Many hardwood stores stock actual wood sheets you can glue down to anything.

I've been looking for the same answer--I want to buy my last drill bit set no matter the price. So what do you guys think of the McMaster 28115A74? (I can't post links, their pages won't link directly) Cobalt steel, TiN, 15 pieces at 32nd increments. For general use, occasional steel drilling (actually not needed often, but when I need it I don't want to fuck around).

I used that very same sink for a remodel a couple years ago. It's nice, I liked it a lot. However if you turn on the faucet too fast the water will flow around the bowl and right out the front onto you.

Harbor Freight. Apparently it's the same saw that lots of companies rebrand and then double the price. And yeah, the bandsaw is fucking awesome, I can't believe I went so long without one. I had no idea it was so easy, useful, and clean (both in cut quality and the lack of mess in the garage). The chop saw is going back.

Screw the chop saw. I got this: $159

I guess I should take pics. No close-ups of my welds yet though... They're not pretty, but it didn't fall apart when I jumped on it.

Well, my first project was to weld up a welding table. Welding on the ground sucks ass. Good thing I won't have to do it any more now that I have a table. Two 2'x4' sheets of 1/4" steel for the surfaces, 2" angle for legs, and 1" square tube for the frame. Yeah, it's solid. I have a miter saw stand similar to that PDF right now, and don't really like it. My next one will be open framed with sheet metal in strategic places to catch dust/chips to picked up by the dust collection system. So that's the next metal project. I was also thinking about adding on a little fold-up area on the side of the welding table to hold the chop saw, making the welding table sort of a miter stand for metal.

I just realized one other difference is the lack of compound miter ability. This came up with angle steel, but I can put that in the clamp in the right orientation to get the right cut. However something like square tube wouldn't work that way. How do you make compound cuts on this thing? Make a jig? First project: Build a stand for the new miter saw.

God damn, that is some nice wood work. Holy shit, you have talent. I would love to drop a deuce in one of those stalls. I couldn't be sure from the pics, but are the doors laminated from 1" strips? What type of wood is that? The new Hitachi graphics are retarded. It makes me think less of their tools. On the other hand, they have incorporated soft rubber into the right places as part of the graphics so the handles feel nice and do work.

I picked up the DeWalt DW871 chop saw. Lowe's was clearing it out, picked up the floor model for $140 plus a free 4.5" wheel grinder. I'll eBay that since I already have the high-powered DeWalt grinder, bringing the saw cost to $100-ish. The HF saw was on sale for $100, but as much as I love HF, they're not really comparable. So far I only cut a couple pieces of rebar but it sure cuts nice and the holding fixture works great.

A friend of mine who is a former contractor recommended a floor buffer with a Scotch-brite pad. Sounds like it should be very effective. Anyone ever try it? We're going to paint our concrete floors in part of the house.

Ah, some useful points. I'll have to look closely at the options. The clamp is a good point, my miter clamps are small and puny in comparison, and they clamp vertically while all the chop saws clamp horizontally. I'm guessing that you don't want to cut metal just hand-held...?

I can't seem to find saws with large tables any more. They all recommend an add-on table or rig, which I'll probably get. Hitachi makes a nice looking, very configurable miter station. The laser...not sure if I'll use that. The idea sounds good. Sometimes I fuck around a lot with getting an exact cut for critical stuff like a picture frame. What's your method for critical cuts? The digital angle readouts...maybe I'm just a digital junkie, but I like the idea of just seeing the angle at a glance. They make a very similar saw without the gizmos for about $60 less, but for that small difference, I'd take the gizmos. Oh, and it's rated to cut 4x16" (dim lumber) at 90 degrees, which is just awesome. I'd like to use my table saw less often. The miter is just so much faster to set up and just cut.

Yeah, and being .1" I didn't notice. Not only that, but I took in the old grease seal AND I told him it was 2.125. I have this disease where I tend to trust "experts" in a field when I really should question everything. I should have been worried after this conversation though: Me: I need four of these seals (hand old on to him), they are 2.125. Him: Uh, not sure what that means, we usually look them up by inch size. Me: 2.125 inches. Him: .... .... oh. This fiasco has to do with the fourth brake problem I've had, at least it wasn't a total melt-down like the first. Finally figured out, which no "experts" have figured out, that the brake mounting flange on the axle was welded on crooked. The brake calipers aren't straight then, so the pads engage at an angle, and don't like to fully disengage.

I wish I'd looked first. Though they are only .1" off. I put it on, everything was beautiful, pour in oil...and guess what... I found out from the manufacturer that there are two sizes of spindle for a 6,000 pound axle; 2.125 and 2.250, and I have the 2.125. Oil seals are only in 2.250. So I went to the RV store and asked for 2.125 grease seals. Slide the hub on. Fuck. 2.250 seals. Pull it out, wait yet another day (been chasing these fucking seals all weekend), get them replaced. I now have wheels on the trailer, and a new brake caliper finally. Fuck. I hate trailers.

The metal chop saws are much cruder and simpler, but cost as much. Why? What's the difference? I've chucked an abrasive wheel in my miter saw and used it to cut metal. Not a pleasant experience in general, but I don't know if a chop saw would be any better. Should I... Get this: http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_det...p?productID=160 Convert my old miter saw to chop saw duty since I want a new miter saw Get a hooker to cut my wood for me

I compared to the Dewalt 718, and this has more of everything for about the same price. http://www.hitachi-koki.com/powertools/pro...lsh/c12lsh.html

I was putting new brakes on the boat trailer (another long fucking story), and ordered a kit with oil bath hubs. Trouble is, the oil seal is the wrong size. So I wonder if a special spindle is required for the oil bath hubs, or what?

The ancient rule is to use high beams. This rule was created when headlamps used a basic chrome bowl and a 35w tungsten filament bulb. Today's headlight output is many times higher, and this no longer makes sense. I noticed a few years ago that people were turning left in front of me kind of often, or pulling out in front of me. I switched to low beam after having someone on a XX riding behind me, and noticing that I was fucking blind, and could not tell how far he was. You can't look straight at a XX with high beam on. So I think it's blinding people and making HARDER for them to judge distance.

Why don't you just post the question or diagrams, you'll get an answer.

I change oil on a very strict and scientific "sorta 6k" basis. Around 6k miles I start thinking about it, and planning to buy some stuff like a filter and the oil. Then I get a round tuit, and actually do it some time in the next 100-2000 miles. This methodology was fine for 130k miles on my last bike (an air-cooled Suzuki 1100). A guy bought it to put the motor in a buggy. He sent me the bearings and they looked fine, worn as expected for 130k miles of raping in the desert, but fine.