SwampNut

Garage one has an opener with a motion sensor, and the safety photocell also makes the light turn on if the beam is broken. Garage 2 has a shitty contract cheapo opener, and I have no real motivation to change it. I put a wifi motion, temp, and humidity sensor ($23) in there so it tells the home automation system to turn other lights on/off. I wanted the temp sensing anyway since I run heat in the winter and want to make sure it's not in some runaway condition. And added a CO/smoke detector of course. I still haven't taken the panel apart in garage 2 to see how it activates the light. So many projects.

Yeah, if you paste from something like Word/Excel or similar, there's some sort of garbage embedded. The protection systems on the forum see it as a potential SQL database injection attack and block it. Then the 403 is because I have failed to give that specific error message.

FYYFF

We have had some issues with posting certain fonts and complex text. Are you copy/pasting from another place? If so, try pasting in only plain text.

Is it saying that when you try to go to the sale section, or when you try to submit the post? Can you give us the exact copy and paste or screenshot of the message? I don't see any issue with your account. I did add +2 rep on your account in case there's some built in account limit for 0-rated accounts.

I've never seen that. Both of my openers have a light button, and a door button. Every opener I've ever owned was like that. The only thing I can come up with so far is to cycle a wifi switch connected to the light button so it pretends to press it.

There's a timer for sure. But the button on the wall can override it. How exactly it does that is my question. A wifi switch can't control the light directly. I don't care how it looks already, it's my holder for all the shop wiring anyway.

No, not by showing it a picture of Trump. The door light is obviously controllable from the wall panel just like the door. Being that it's two wires, it has to do something besides just close the circuit, which activates the door. I'm wanting to be able to control the light via home automation, to accomplish one thing. I want the light to stay on at all times when the door is open, not time out after five minutes. I can easily use a wifi switch, but that just opens the door of course. What's the magic in the control box? I am guessing a resistor but can't find the answers online.

Why would you do that? Then people using normal popcorn are fucked, PLUS you would never be able to properly guess how much each bag vents.

When I get up retarded early for no reason (4am today, fuck this shit), I end up wanting to eat early. And for whatever reason cereal comes to mind. One of my favorites: 1/2 cup steel cut whole oats 1/2 cup buckwheat groats Big handful of dried cranberries Small toss of dried tart cherries Pinch of potassium chloride Pinch of cayenne (not for heat, but to enhance flavors) Bit of grade B maple syrup (this is NOT a whole food, but goddamn is it good) 1.5 cups vanilla almond milk, coconut, or whatever plant "milk" you like Put in the Instant pot on high manual for 35 minutes. Oats and groats don't have to be sweet. They adapt well as a savory side or I suppose a meal. You can use coconut milk plus some water, curry, peppers, onions, etc to make an Asian influence coconut curry bowl. But instead of adding meats, you use the groats. Use your imagination, they adapt to whatever flavors you add.

Why should it? If the bag is interfering with the detector, why would it work?

Yeah, wide angle cameras.

The automation stuff works great. I'm just wondering if they say not to use it for bagged popcorn because it prevents the automation from working.

Is this true? I haven't bought popcorn in at least a decade. I assume that this is because microwave popcorn is bagged and mostly sealed. And I assume the popcorn button uses the heat and moisture sensor that's in all modern microwaves to know what the food is doing and set itself accordingly. But I don't really know, that's conjecture from understanding how sensor microwaves have evolved, particularly inverter types.

I think you're talking about metal bandsaws. They don't have tires. All wood bandsaws do, as far as I've seen. Hot water, a little soap, loop it half way, clamp, stretch all the way into the groove. The saw is much quieter and smooth-running now. I never realized how much blade vibration and deviation had crept in because of the cracked tires. I didn't find the DOT date sticker.

Change your bandsaw tires more often than every 15 years. It blew pieces out all over, one missed my face by an inch. It damaged an expensive Woodslicer blade. And almost nobody stocks tires for an 18" saw, just the 14. You'd think they were made by Michelin.

These are decent. Add a bit of potassium chloride and whatever spice, and it's a good meal. I added a bunch of red pepper to this one of course. Available at the larger Fry's marketplace (Kroger) stores and Sprout's.

He only likes colored women.

+1 Coulda done it by now, LOL.

FYYFF.

This is why you should stop talking and start doing.

Be the man of the house, order it, put it on two windows, and see. Make a decision, man up.

Did you get that 3M film yet, which solves the problem and costs nearly nothing?

I'm not home, and don't recall exactly. Pretty sure a mity-vac and I'm guessing $40. Standard bleed screws.

I just used a pump, and it was a pretty decent one. Not sure what problem you're having with it. I only bled them once I think. When Galfer used my bike to model their lines on, they used a big electric pump that made fast work of it.