SwampNut

I hope to really get into this before summer, but not sure where to start. So that's question one. I am 50/50 on just tearing it completely apart, which will eventually happen, or choosing areas to start. Such as starting off with the tail and headlight area, which are the most accessible/easy, work on them, and then continue. I guess I kinda lean towards that. I can work with some of the smaller parts to learn processes. Chrome is fucked up by rust. I've cleaned up lots of lightly pitted metals, this is more. So again not sure where I'd start with that part. Sandblasting with light media like walnut or corn? For small parts, use the ammo tumbler which has corn cob (I think) media? Any chemicals or other things to use? Electrical is oddly 100%, turn signals work, all that. Motor has compression, clicks through gears. I don't think I want to split the cases. I do think I want to pull the top end and do rings. Do I? Just such a standard move with two-strokes. But...compression feels normal-ish, working from very old memory of these bikes. Spark plugs are fucked. What should I clean them in? Just kidding. Tires...haven't googled it yet. Brakes are probably alright, but thoughts on that appreciated. OEM battery is on the restorer now, should be fine. I kid, I kid. The seat is remarkably fine. I'm thinking about putting vinyl protectant on it and bag it for storage until I'm done. I'd really like to restore the lettering on it, but have no idea how I would. Handlebars...replace? It seems like something that should be fairly generic to find others that fit the look? Oh yeah--my goal is "believable" not perfect restoration. Period appropriate but not even necessarily only parts from this one model. Bolts...into the tumbler?

Who is also sending a (functional) tool kit strap?

Goddammit, had just clicked quote on that. But I was gonna go with the original slogan.

Our Purple UFOs have had some red/plum colored ones also. I can't find the correlation between color and flavors on those. The jalapeños are currently ultra bright red, which a few years ago, correlated with both maximum flavor and heat. I had some off-red ones last week that were super bright in flavor with great citrus. I'm pushing them now to see how far they will go. The aji limon are producing a ton, and are super tasty, and way hotter than expected. Well north of a jalapeño.

I've told people that a lot recently as my friends and neighbors have also started up gardens, and asked why one of our plants has both green and red. For some, mind blown, for others it was an argument as they could not absorb something so shocking to their entire world view. Do you want to hear about green vs red Jalapeños? Green tea and black are the same tea, one is fermented. Black and green olives......WAIT FOR IT.............same. Avocados may never ripen if they get really cold, like being refrigerated. Most of them gain the magical ability to go from hard to mushy black nastiness without the extra step of being edible. Keep them on the counter until at or near ripe, THEN refrigerate and they will stay there for a long time. Bananas and apples give off a lot of ethylene gas, which is a plant hormone that causes ripening. So you can "push ripen" most other fruit by bagging them together. But that will also push the banana/apple itself too. Melons will ripen cold, but will produce very little of the anti-oxidants and other benefits. They should be left out until they are fully ripe, then go in the fridge. Because who doesn't prefer a cold melon over warm?? Oh, this guy does not care, he's a melon fiend.

I don't know where you got your apple slicer, Small World? The biggest apples we can get still fit in ours.

Garage one has an opener with a motion sensor, and the safety photocell also makes the light turn on if the beam is broken. Garage 2 has a shitty contract cheapo opener, and I have no real motivation to change it. I put a wifi motion, temp, and humidity sensor ($23) in there so it tells the home automation system to turn other lights on/off. I wanted the temp sensing anyway since I run heat in the winter and want to make sure it's not in some runaway condition. And added a CO/smoke detector of course. I still haven't taken the panel apart in garage 2 to see how it activates the light. So many projects.

Yeah, if you paste from something like Word/Excel or similar, there's some sort of garbage embedded. The protection systems on the forum see it as a potential SQL database injection attack and block it. Then the 403 is because I have failed to give that specific error message.

FYYFF

We have had some issues with posting certain fonts and complex text. Are you copy/pasting from another place? If so, try pasting in only plain text.

Is it saying that when you try to go to the sale section, or when you try to submit the post? Can you give us the exact copy and paste or screenshot of the message? I don't see any issue with your account. I did add +2 rep on your account in case there's some built in account limit for 0-rated accounts.

I've never seen that. Both of my openers have a light button, and a door button. Every opener I've ever owned was like that. The only thing I can come up with so far is to cycle a wifi switch connected to the light button so it pretends to press it.

There's a timer for sure. But the button on the wall can override it. How exactly it does that is my question. A wifi switch can't control the light directly. I don't care how it looks already, it's my holder for all the shop wiring anyway.

No, not by showing it a picture of Trump. The door light is obviously controllable from the wall panel just like the door. Being that it's two wires, it has to do something besides just close the circuit, which activates the door. I'm wanting to be able to control the light via home automation, to accomplish one thing. I want the light to stay on at all times when the door is open, not time out after five minutes. I can easily use a wifi switch, but that just opens the door of course. What's the magic in the control box? I am guessing a resistor but can't find the answers online.

Why would you do that? Then people using normal popcorn are fucked, PLUS you would never be able to properly guess how much each bag vents.

When I get up retarded early for no reason (4am today, fuck this shit), I end up wanting to eat early. And for whatever reason cereal comes to mind. One of my favorites: 1/2 cup steel cut whole oats 1/2 cup buckwheat groats Big handful of dried cranberries Small toss of dried tart cherries Pinch of potassium chloride Pinch of cayenne (not for heat, but to enhance flavors) Bit of grade B maple syrup (this is NOT a whole food, but goddamn is it good) 1.5 cups vanilla almond milk, coconut, or whatever plant "milk" you like Put in the Instant pot on high manual for 35 minutes. Oats and groats don't have to be sweet. They adapt well as a savory side or I suppose a meal. You can use coconut milk plus some water, curry, peppers, onions, etc to make an Asian influence coconut curry bowl. But instead of adding meats, you use the groats. Use your imagination, they adapt to whatever flavors you add.

Why should it? If the bag is interfering with the detector, why would it work?

Yeah, wide angle cameras.

The automation stuff works great. I'm just wondering if they say not to use it for bagged popcorn because it prevents the automation from working.

Is this true? I haven't bought popcorn in at least a decade. I assume that this is because microwave popcorn is bagged and mostly sealed. And I assume the popcorn button uses the heat and moisture sensor that's in all modern microwaves to know what the food is doing and set itself accordingly. But I don't really know, that's conjecture from understanding how sensor microwaves have evolved, particularly inverter types.

I think you're talking about metal bandsaws. They don't have tires. All wood bandsaws do, as far as I've seen. Hot water, a little soap, loop it half way, clamp, stretch all the way into the groove. The saw is much quieter and smooth-running now. I never realized how much blade vibration and deviation had crept in because of the cracked tires. I didn't find the DOT date sticker.

Change your bandsaw tires more often than every 15 years. It blew pieces out all over, one missed my face by an inch. It damaged an expensive Woodslicer blade. And almost nobody stocks tires for an 18" saw, just the 14. You'd think they were made by Michelin.

These are decent. Add a bit of potassium chloride and whatever spice, and it's a good meal. I added a bunch of red pepper to this one of course. Available at the larger Fry's marketplace (Kroger) stores and Sprout's.

He only likes colored women.

+1 Coulda done it by now, LOL.