SwampNut

I think the problem is that the fins just aren't big enough. The later models are huge. Here's mine... I should note that in 70k miles of AZ riding, I had one R/R fail, and one stator.

This one has a snap switch as a thermostat. Not mine, I just googled it.

You scored, even if you never enable the cellular part. (And if you don't know, that's only so you can leave the phone behind, AND be away from wifi.)

They are. I can detect their cuppage from this view. You can't? Fucking amateur.

It's capable of being on any carrier, and SHOULD be unlocked. You might ask AT&T. Remember also to do the unpair thing, so it's removed from your iCloud lock. The Watch has limited bands which is cool, it doesn't need high speed. And it's actually good since it just hits the universal bands for the US and Canada. It will not do well overseas. Unsure about Mexico. US buyers are good on any carrier.

Your catalytic converter is cupped.

Bought a Series 5? That's a smokin' deal. The 5 was the first model upgrade that has no improvements of any value. I guess they did eventually have to run out of stuff to add.

One neighbor has a diesel 2500, the other a gasser. Both get better fuel economy while towing a 30' trailer than my Jeep with a 20'. So does the guy with a full-size jap truck. I'm not sure there's a point to be found here other than there are too many variables.

The Jeep gets 2-4 MPG *less* on road trips than in town. It gets lower MPG towing a small trailer than my neighbor's 2500 towing a huge trailer.

Actually that makes absolutely perfect sense. Lots of environments require a positive action like that rather than "it didn't need it so we didn't do it." In some secure environments we were required to put unconnected network plugs into open jacks to show we'd programmed all of them securely, not just ignored them.

I don't really know why it happens, but it does. Uneven wear is the only rational guess. Running big off-road tires on 15" wheels, I get LOTS of weights, and every rebalance finds something wrong.

Oh, yeah, that wrong I read. I have a half-baked guess with the weights not being EXACTLY where the imbalance lies, and the beads trying to be precise down to microns.

A thousand rolling beads would add a huge amount of friction, or perceived "stiction" and would stop the tire rolling before the heavy part reaches the bottom. Think of it like adding sand to something, it will try to clump. Beads have been proven to save long-haul and medium trucks fuel and tire wear in SAE tests. So they clearly work in "big" tires. Those aren't wide however.

I bought an LED headlight, I could install it tonight and see how it looks.

It can be a real pain on some bikes. Galfer did mine with a reverse-feed pump from Phoenix Systems, filling it from the bottom (both brakes and clutch). This probably guarantees no air. My mountain bike brakes were also a pain to bleed, and I ended up reverse-bleeding those with a big syringe.

Oh, I thought you knew, they are HEL which was pretty expensive last time I shopped. Also I couldn't figure out whether it's a re-routed OEM kit or custom de-link kit (didn't try very hard though). http://www.helperformance.us/hel-brake-lines-for-honda-cbr1100-xxv-xx8-1996-2008.html

"They catalytic converter is cold" is the common diagnosis I've heard. And I haven't been able to find any sort of cutaway view or design details on the XX cats.

I did a front-only set from Galfer in May of 2002, don't know if they had rears. My bike was the prototype and they were made in their factory as I watched. I did the clutch also, with no issues. Sounds like an air problem or something else. Some time later that decade, I heard people complaining that you couldn't buy a front only kit, but obviously, I didn't need to try so I'm not sure.

Is it still $250+ for a set? One potential option is to simply go on eBay and buy the lengths of generic braided line that you need just to do the front.

It's hard to tell from the video, which is a bit tinny. But the CCT on this bike is a common complaint item.

I believe this varies by area, due to soil differences and things like that. I'm no expert, but have heard differing things in different parts of the country.

I don't recall it, but I sold my Katana 1100 with 100k miles on it after buying the XX.

I didn't have cats, so maybe it doesn't compare, but I did full throttle for a pretty long time once on I-8. No heat spots.

I'm no expert on STP since I use it once a decade, but from memory... STP is rarely needed. If you use it, there's a special male connector. That goes into a device with a special female connector that grounds it. You ground both ends IF they have a common ground, only one end if you don't. Ask me how much money I've made replacing shit when people grounded a cable on two ends with separate grounds, and lightning induced voltage into one end (even though the building wasn't hit, it was just in the air). An attic should never have STP, that's crazy. Oh, and in outdoor applications you ALSO need a surge arrestor with its own ground. If the device is PoE, then obviously you can ground both ends. My last run of it was almost ten years ago, to go around 450 feet (yes, out of spec, it worked) under a boat dock. The far end was specifically ground tested to be sure it was equivalent to the head end, and we grounded both. Again, no expert on STP, but I think if you have existing ungrounded runs of it, you're going to be fine. I don't think there's a need to remove it.