Biometrix

Very nice work! Thanks for reinforcing how shitty my bathrooms look.

Just an unsolicited endorsement for the Ventura System. Also had it on my XX and liked it so much it's what I use on the FJR now. Quality materials, very secure mounting, easy off/on the bike. Super price and Mike is being conservative in his estimate of "new" cost. Just the Aero Spada VII pack alone is almost $450 new.

That was the only box I had that they would fit in without squishing them down. As far as all the packing material...I was just trying to get rid of it.

Fiona I hope you're joking as I didn't get any inquiry or PM from you.

Sorry, must have moved the pictures in PB. They attach with the throw-over straps that are velcro and adjustable to achieve the proper height and then they have straps that are attached to the rear sets or other places to hold them on. I have attached a PDF that explains it better. Here are the missing pics since I can't edit the OP. CL-SSC-SLR sddlbags.pdf

First dibs for the XX.org collective I bought these bags many moons ago when I had the XX and I think I may have used them only once or twice. Was planning on using them for my wife's new NCX but in so much as the gas filler is under the passenger seat, the throw-over design is not optimum...and so I just bought Givi hardbags for her. Anywhooo...these are in really great shape. No fading, tears, unsightly blemishes or stankyness. They come complete with all the original parts and pieces which include the mounting straps, carry straps, rain covers and the neoprene pad things so they won't fuck up your paint. It seems these are no longer made by N.R. and have been replaced with the CL series but they were about $120 new as are their newer CL series replacements. Here's a link to an old on-line description...Linky I am selling them for $60 including shipping to the lower 48 (which will cost about 1/2 that as I already checked) so it's a pretty good deal. PM me with any questions. Paypal preferred. I'm pretty sure if I remember correctly that the few times I did use them, hot women were lured in by their manly swaginess and I had to fight them off but your experience may be different. I make no guarantees. Here are a few pics... Bags Straps and rain covers Neoprene pad things - front and back

I would also check to make sure you have a solid ground. Don't remember too much from my Blackbird but I know that the Honda VTX's would show an intermittent FI light but not throw codes and it was due to a loose ground wire or corrosion that had built up around the main grounding point. Removing the ground wire, sanding it and the mating surface clean and then re-tightening with an application of dielectric grease cured it.

I ran Avon Venoms on my cruiser back when I had it and they wore and rode just fine but since it was a cruiser I can't attest to the stickiness as I couldn't lean it very far without dragging a peg. That said I put a new set of Michelin Pilot Road 3's on my FJR before my California trip and they were awesome! Very sticky in the twisties and excellent in the rain (and even saved my ass in the snow). They run very smoothly and there was no noticeable wear after the first 3000 miles I put on them. The tread patterns on the PR 3's are quite unique and also very different between the front and the back tire. Plus they have that whole 2 compound thing where the sides are softer than the middle. I ran a PR 2 on the rear of the Blackbird when I had it and it was much better than the whatever I replaced but can't remember whether it was Bridgestone or Dunlop. Anywhooo...I'm sold on the PR3's so that would be my choice. Ask Icepick about the driveway to my hotel in TN. It was practically vertical, wet and slicker than shit. His tire on the KTM broke loose on his way up but mine didn't. PR3's are very sticky.

That's not how I read it. Sounds like he's planning on using the existing 12-2 wire and using both the black and white wire for each leg of the 220. So there will be no neutral from the breaker panel? What are you using to replace the white neutral or are you going to use the existing ground for the neutral? Personally I think you're asking for trouble not running the proper wire. All you need is a little jolt while running a table saw and you're going to be playing "where is thumbkin" or worse. Also suggest you buy a fire extinguisher suitable for electrical fires. Just sayin...

I feel both your pain and your victory. Have fixed our dryer and dishwasher numerous times. Wife and two daughters (living at home) all have long hair and it fucks up just about everything it gets into. Vacuum beater bar needs to be continuously cleaned out lest it burns out bearings. Shower and sink drains clog up often, dryer needs constant cleaning.

Nice garage! Looks like some very neat work. Questions...is no sheathing under the metal roof typical for your area on "out" buildings? Do you plan on heating it at all? Just wondering because I'm going to building a garage/shop on my cabin property and can't decide whether to build or just get a pre-fab and have it dropped off. It will be much smaller, probably 12x24.

How about compressed air? Can you find a piece of hose or tubing that will fit into the square socket extension hole? If so I would try blowing air into the other end of the hose with a compressor and see if that will lift the socket out. Be careful though, I used this method to retrieve a bolt inside my handlebars and it damn near blew it through my drywall.

Sure is a nice looking bike. I had the Interstate model. I'm tempted as I miss my Valk. Must resist... :icon_snooty:

Do you have a multi-meter? If so you should connect it between the negative battery terminal and the ground wire. Check the draw and then start pulling fuses one at a time to see if the voltage drain drops. I don't have an XX service manual anymore but there was a specific section that described this procedure as well as what the acceptable range was. I think they called it a "leak down" test. I had to do this on my Valkyrie when I had the same problem and it turned out to be the alarm system was pulling about 10x what it was supposed to while the bike was off. At least you can isolate the offending circuit this way. Electrical problems suck.

Impossible to make an informed suggestion without seeing a picture of the girlfriend.

I did now...I was on vacation this week so my cell was shut off.

You guess right...they are using the headlight circuit to energize the relay since it comes on when you turn the key. That's how I have my aux fuse box connected on the FJR but I would think the factory/engineers would have thought of a more elegant way to do it rather than the way I engineer things in my garage...then again it is a British bike. Told you I was just guessing anyhow. I like my theory better that it's the damn gubment trying to control things.

Because it's illegal to ride w/o a headlight on in the US on a M/C so I expect that it's a regulatory measure to allow import. (I actually have no idea if that's true or not...I'm just guessing)

Is there different types of anti-seize? What I have is silver in color. Thanks for the replies. Probably but I am not sure what the difference is. Anti-seize is one of those "things" you buy for your home shop/garage and have the same container for the rest of your life. Mine is coppery...you must have bought the more expense silver kind...Dave K probably buys the gold anti-seize.

I will have to weigh in with the dissenting view. My opinion is to NEVER loctite header studs. Here's why...had they been thread-locked THIS TIME instead of having them back out like they did they might have broken off and then you would have a much bigger project on your hands. I actually prefer to use anti-seize (copper paste stuff) on header bolts. I've never had them come loose by themselves but if the nut won't turn (like yours) the stud is less likely to snap.

I agree with Wario. It sounds like they are having you block off the PAIR valve (Pulsed Air Induction Reed Valve) which as stated is more for emissions than anything else. The problem that I have heard of when blocking the hose instead of blocking it at the engine is that condensation can build up in the hose which will eventually get sucked back into the engine. It doesn't cause any real problems other than a little rough running but it's not exactly an "elegant" way to block off the PAIR system. The closer you can block it to the engine the better. Perhaps you could find the right size vacuum cap and block it where the hose attaches? Blocking it does help with decel pop but I think all the other claims are a bit of a stretch. I'm surprised they don't say it adds some extra horsepower too. :icon_snooty:

For Sale – My Zumo 550 Condition is excellent and the unit has always worked well and never let me down. Includes all original parts and accessories in the original box which are: Zumo 550 GPS Case Auto cradle and cable Motorcycle cradle, Handlebar or Reservoir RAM mount (still sealed in plastic with all screws, spacers, nuts) USB Cable A/C Wall Charger Instruction CD Original City Navigator (2008) CD with MapSource for PC installation. Also included is a 2GB SD card Things you should know: 1. The security screw in the motorcycle cradle has been replaced with a thumb screw (far easier to use) but the original security screw and special screwdriver is included if you are so inclined to return it to its original and most frustrating condition. 2. The Motorcycle power cable originally had a mini-blade fuse at the power connection end for a 2 amp fuse but I cut it off as I had it connected into an accessory fuse box. You could easily solder another one on. If I find the one I cut off I’ll include it (no promises) 3. The latest firmware updates have been done as of today. 4. It has North America East maps installed from 2011 but since I use the update for my other GPS as well, the update CD is NOT included. You will have to buy your own update CD or download from Garmin if you want. I think it’s around $49.00 5. It has screen protector film installed. It can be easily peeled off if damaged. 6. Inside the original City Navigator CD box there is a small yellow slip of paper that contains the Zumo’s “Unlock Code”. DON’T LOSE IT…you may need it for future map installs and other updates. They are still selling this model and the cheapest price I can find online is around $550 so I am selling this one for $425 including shipping within the Continental US. Paypal accepted – PM me with any questions.

I'm sorry ...you know I love you man.

The cable does NOT disconnect from the M/C mount at least not by design. I am NOT almost 60 I am barely 50. So now that's three things today you were wrong about including your absurd and retarded opinion on the Zumo 550. I am convinced that the only reason you miss the tactile buttons is because you are used to trying to find and play with, short stubby appendages in your own pants so the 550 was merely an extension of your own sick and twisted obsessions. So....see you around 3pm on Friday...right Douche nozzle? Mine comes off....I think. Maybe I am thinking of the 550? Seriously though....I liked the + & - buttons on the 550 for 1 reason only. While you were in MAP mode you could set it to advance the song choice up 1 or down 1 by using those buttons without switching from the map. With the 660 you need to hit the music note icon to get to the music options. Pain in the arse. Friday....what's Friday? The 550's does come off but not the 660's. Funny that my 50 year old brain appears less feeble than your whatever age brain you have (perhaps 12). I guess I confused Friday with meeting up with someone who I actually enjoy riding with...my bad.

Here's a picture of the whole deal. Notice the "permanent" connection to the mount. There are actually four connections off the cable. Power, audio jack in, microphone and mini USB for XM antenna (supported only with 665)