MaXX

I just slotted some washers....I love when folks don't read everyone's posts. BTW, I did mine 3 years ago with the slotted washers, no movement, they have never come out. MaXX

I love those things too. I have had two sets on the bird. Check Parts411 or accwhse, I can't remember where i got them. MaXX

Steve, WTF did you do to stir up this Shit nest???? Better say you are sorry, Tim is like Gus in a humping frenzy, best to give him a little satisfaction then he'll leave you alone!!! Good Luck with this. MaXX

Bruce, in the big scheme of things, it makes no FUCKING difference. Ride it, change it...whatever. My feeling is, you would be fine riding it a week then changing it. If it makes you feel better, change it. If you used the worst fucking car oil made on earth, it will be fine for a week or month of riding. My rule, car oil, change every 2000 miles, synthetic, every 4000 miles or every 4 trackdays when run on the track. I am all synthetic now, just to keep from the inconvenience of changing so often. Do what makes you feel good, the bike will be fine whatever you do. Mac

Hell, that is a great idea!!!!!! :roll: Got mine in the mail from a forum member 2.5 years ago, free shipping too!!!! :twisted: MaXX

No, it is the result of sodomy with a Jew!!!

Ooops, almost forgot, teflon tape for the threaded connection to the water heater. MaXX

Alright fella's, I had the unfortunate opportunity to change out my water heater last night. The ten year old A.O. Smith sprung a leak, getting the floor in my utility room pretty wet. So, here is what you need to know. 1) How long are you going to be in your house? Water Heaters come with a wide range of warranty's. I picked the best brand I recognized (GE) with the shortest warranty thus lowest price (6 year warranty, $228.00). 2) Are you going to do the work yourself? Home Depot was going to charge me a flat $299 to replace and dispose of my existing water heater, on top of course of the cost of the Water Heater. When I looked at the job, I realized I could do it relatively easily, even though I did not have the correct tools. $30 later that was solved. So here goes. Be sure you have a pipe wrench. I don't care if you have vise grips, Johnny Locks or some-other kind of pliers, a pipe wrench is a must for plumbing, period. I replaced my existing water heater with one as close as possible to the original. 40 gallon gas water heater. My house is only 10 years old so everything is pretty straight forward. You need to shut off the gas to the water heater and disconnect the fittings. You will probably need ALL of the fittings for the new water heater so don't throw them out. Turn off the water, ALL THE WATER in the house. My water heater has a valve right above the cold water in connection but the fucker leaked. My main water shut off was no better (cheap $3 valves). If you have any water in the pipes, you will not be able to sweat solder the fittings, I don't care what you try to do. They must be dry. Anyway, after trying to solder through the wet and ruining $12 in fittings and pipe, I tried I new approach. Went back to home depot, bought all the fittings again and also a top of the line valve ($6.00 valve, not $2.89, you do get what you pay for). I proceeded to solder as much as I could together before screwing the fittings into the top of the water heater and sweating the connections to the copper pipes. Anyway, I could not get the water to stop dripping out of the existing valve so finally I cut the thing off and jammed a piece of "white" bread up in the pipe (as per the recommendation of one of my friends who is a master plumber, also rides a Mille and I do a lot of work for him). Anyway, the bread will stop any dripping long enough to be able to solder the fitting and will just dissolve into a paste and come out the drain eventually. Things I found out. The new water heaters come with some nipples with some plastic apparatus inside of them at the connections where the water comes in and out. These are meant to be there. The ball that floats around inside the plastic actually helps keep heat in the heater. With that, you do not have to use them. I did not because I bought Male fittings and I had to remove the nipples to connect the fittings. 2nd, shut off the water main and open all of your faucets upstairs and downstairs. This will just keep make things easier, believe me. 3rd, do as much soldering unconnect as possible. Try to only have to do one soldering connection, the last coupling to the water lines and be sure gravity is working with you. i.e. be sure the last connection you are soldering the top of the fitting to the pipe, not the underside. Other then that, it is a straight forward swap. Good luck. Tools I needed Pipe Wrench (borrowed from neighbor) Pipe cutting tool ($8) Torch, flux and solder ($20) Fittings and pipe 1st visit: ($10) Fittings and valve 2nd visit: ($12) MaXX

Best genuine Honda piece you can buy. I picked up one of the first one's sent over and the Cam Chain has NOT rattled since. Great $50 add-on. MaXX Edited to read CORRECTLY

I would caution using any street tire at the track, now with that said, if I was to run the XX on the track, I would definetly go to something softer like a Metzeler M1. Now with that said, I know I would be flogging the bike pretty hard so I would want the added security race tires give me, but the XX is only so floggable!!! So, I would go M1's and take it easy. The first time they tried to buck me, I would back off or change them. It is not worth the $220 in tires to have a $1k + wreck (MHO). MaXX

Not an RS2 on the rear. You must go RS1 on the front and RS2 on the rear or the rear will chunk, even on my Mille. MaXX

Any tire, period, is slippery when cold. 1.5 laps around a track should have you warm. I am usually on it in 3/4 of a lap. Just an FYI. By the way, a bunch of records set on the RS1 front, RS2 rear combination in 02 and 03, the tires stick. MaXX

Something tells me you guys are not the same size. MaXX

You will probably want to shorten the chain 2 links or you will way back in the axle holes to keep it tight. I would just cut 2 out, will keep you near the stock location for chain stretch.... MaXX

F your neighbors. If you just pull them off, send them back to me, I still think they are louder then Nik's D&D's. MaXX

Each tire, off the bike is typically charged 30 minutes (last ones I had done were $20/tire at the track). Other then that, the best route for you is this, if you are mechanically inclined http://www.tireqwik.com/tireqwik/ I've been doing this myself for the past two years. Figure I have saved $100's of $$$$$$$$ (3 bikes, trackdays....). MaXX

Get both new cans, the CF on those V&H's is undoubtedly faded, one new one will look funny. THEY MUST MATCH!!!! Loud, aren't they!!!! MaXX

I buy them through www.swmototires.com or www.discountmotorcycletire.com, depending on who is doing better that day. I have my own tire tools and do all the changing and balancing myself. MaXX

I run Metzeler Rennsports on my Mille (RS1 on the Front and RS2 on the back). I have also had good luck with Dunlop 208 GP's (or whatever the new equivalent is). MaXX

V&H provides a bracket that stops the stand from hitting the pipes. It is just a simple "L" bracket you bolt on through the right side (if you are sitting on the bike) centerstand bolt. Easy solution to the removal of the bumper. MaXX

3 tries with the hammer/screwdriver combo for me last time I did it. No worries. maXX

You might want to check with Jlheine here on the board. He is in Japan and maybe able to get you the upgraded part from the X-11 (the naked XX). Order the Cam Chain Tensioner and the upgraded rubber band for under the seat. You will be glad you did, fewer head-aches!!!! BTW, I am sure there are a million stock pipes sitting out in these guys garages that would be happy to send you a bumper for shipping and a small pennance. MaXX

6th, at 11,000 RPM!!! :razz: :razz: 1st or 2nd------------------------------at 11,000 RPM MaXX

Bottomline, the XX makes sounds, funny tick tick ticks, funny rat-a-tat-tat's and sometimes knocking even. It is strange. It started when I bought it in 1998 and 6 years later and 60K miles, it has gotten quieter but still makes noise from time to time. It is natorious for Cam Chain Tensioner issues but I have never heard of anyone ever having a failure. With that, I upgraded to the X-11 CCT (we provide them in a group buy here on the forum) but other then that, be sure you have oil and ride the bitch. Just my $.02 MaXX

DICK